Drilling Steering Stem Nut

[angus]

Has anyone here drilled there steering stem nut and tapped it for a ram ball They want 24 dollars for one already drilled and tapped.

 

[Rogue]

Its too thin to tap. I think someone here drilled and put a nut on the bottom.

 

[OhioFJR1300]

I ordered one from TechMount and drilled and tapped it myself.

 

[squeezer]

I just ordered the one from Tech Mount with the arm.

I didn't go that route, but you'll be happy with it. It's a nice piece.

 

[azitlies]

Okay Okay... yeah... very old thread.

Thing is, no drilling necessary if you get the right Ram Ball.

I've been looking for one of these steering stem nuts and MCL doesn't have any at this time. And on TechMounts website they only show the entire unit for a GPS. This is the link for the entire unit if that's what you would want: entire unit

After calling them, you can get just the steering stem nut (part # 63998) (and it will take a 1/4 20 Ram ball - no drilling necessary). The steering stem nut is about 16 and a half bucks, shipping extra.

I talked to a guy named Dave, very helpful.

 

[kevins]

I removed the nut, chucked in a lathe, drilled/ tapped to 6 x 1.0mm and reinstalled nut. I machined my GPS mount to have a square drive (for tightening) and tapped the center to the same 6mm. I added locktite to the 6mm stud, screwed it in until it touched the triple clamp stem, then screwed my GPS mount to it. 60 In/ Lbs on the tighten and it's perfect.

When removing/ tightening the steering stem nut, do not use the steering stop as what you torque the nut against. Hold the handlebars.

 

[mferriter]

Its too thin to tap. I think someone here drilled and put a nut on the bottom.

definitely need a nut on the bottom (make sure to use a locknut or threadlock). It's only thick enough for about two threads of engagement. I put a washer on top (under the ram ball) and on the bottom under the locknut.

 

[kevins]

Its too thin to tap. I think someone here drilled and put a nut on the bottom.

definitely need a nut on the bottom (make sure to use a locknut or threadlock). It's only thick enough for about two threads of engagement. I put a washer on top (under the ram ball) and on the bottom under the locknut.

My steering stem is about .100" below the steering stem nut. Are you adding a very thin nut to the underside or do other models have more room?

 

[MGB]

When removing/ tightening the steering stem nut, do not use the steering stop as what you torque the nut against. Hold the handlebars.

What issues arise from using the steering stop as a brace to torque the steering stem nut?? THanks.

 

[rogdeb]

Has anyone here drilled there steering stem nut and tapped it for a ram ball They want 24 dollars for one already drilled and tapped.

You could go this route https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=124395&st=0

WynPro and 08FJR4ME

 

[kevins]

When removing/ tightening the steering stem nut, do not use the steering stop as what you torque the nut against. Hold the handlebars.

What issues arise from using the steering stop as a brace to torque the steering stem nut?? THanks.

Your fork tubes won't be parallel. The stop is on the lower clamp and you are torqueing against the upper clamp. With the torque on the stem nut, the upper and lower clamps will twist.

If you want to check, tighten against the stop. I have a piece of glass 4"x 10"x .25 thick and I put the glass on the fork tubes. If the glass rocks at all, your fork tubes are not parallel.

 

[Jon_PDX]

When removing/ tightening the steering stem nut, do not use the steering stop as what you torque the nut against. Hold the handlebars.

What issues arise from using the steering stop as a brace to torque the steering stem nut?? THanks.

Your fork tubes won't be parallel. The stop is on the lower clamp and you are torqueing against the upper clamp. With the torque on the stem nut, the upper and lower clamps will twist.

If you want to check, tighten against the stop. I have a piece of glass 4"x 10"x .25 thick and I put the glass on the fork tubes. If the glass rocks at all, your fork tubes are not parallel.

And if I did that....oops...and after checking...have not done that....I find that they are not parallel how would I get everything back to normal?

Jon...

 

[Fred W]

Loosen everything up and wiggle it all around to allow it to find its "happy place" then retorque per above.

But... Your forks may not have twisted on you if you did not loosen the triple clamp pinch bolts. Those pinch bolts will try to keep the two clamps (upper and lower) in alignment. All dependent on how/when you used the steering stop.

 

[Jon_PDX]

Thanks Fred,

I had a feeling it would just be a matter of loosing everything up and letting it settle but wanted to make sure since I have not received my shop manual yet.

What I had done was check and retorque the top nut when I brought the bike home from the dealer after buying it. I'll check to make sure they are aligned but I suspect all will be ok since I did not loosen the pinch bolts.

Jon...

 

[MGB]

Haven't had to mess with forks in years, but if I remember correctly the idea was to loosen the lower triple clamp pinch on the forks, axle nut, and axle pinch bolts. Then gently compress/release the forks a number of times. Then retighten from the top down.

I'll have to look at the FJR Manual to see what it says about reinstalling the forks, seems that would be the sequence to follow to ensure all is in alignment.

I still feel like if all was tight, nothing was likely to move using the stops. But the engineer in me says it's still not the right way to do it!!

 

[kevins]

Don't assume loosening this or that did the trick. A couple of bucks at your hardware store for a piece of glass and put it on your fork tubes. You will know if it's correct or not. This won't be the last time you will question your fork alignment.

 

[Scoop Dogg]

Quoted from an earlier thread.

"I've just fitted a RAM ball to mine. If you remove the small Yamaha logo near the ignition lock there's a nice little spot face there with a centre drill hole in the middle. I drilled it through (about 5-6mm thick) and tapped a M6 thread. Job done. It also has the advantage of putting the GPS a bit further forward for better visibility."