Engine Cranks, will not start

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TPS code is not unusual in the flooded scenario. I think it is code 19. After all, you did just crank the starter with the throttle wide open.

 
Remind me not to break down in Fort Smith. If I do, I suppose I should find a Honda dealer.

According the FSM compression should be 228 psi ... even 90 seems low.

 
I generaly use the Kaw-Suzuki dealer for tires, etc...be a cold snowy day in Hades before the local Yamaha sees me again.

Yes, that 90 PSI does seem low, but the FSM also says start engine, warm it up, etc. I didn't have that option. If this baby runs like it does at 90 PSI, I don't think I could handle her at 228 PSI.... also, mine was completely empty of fuel, and as I recall the FSM, it called for the tank to be on and hooked up, and that fuel will not compress....

 
Nope, I'm not THAT stupid!!! tank was full when it wouldn't start at the outset. I even opened the filler just in case it was vapor locked, etc...

 
I generaly use the Kaw-Suzuki dealer for tires, etc...be a cold snowy day in Hades before the local Yamaha sees me again.
Yes, that 90 PSI does seem low, but the FSM also says start engine, warm it up, etc. I didn't have that option. If this baby runs like it does at 90 PSI, I don't think I could handle her at 228 PSI.... also, mine was completely empty of fuel, and as I recall the FSM, it called for the tank to be on and hooked up, and that fuel will not compress....
Might be time to try some elixir, AKA Swamp Root Oil. Most marine and powersports shops sell a similar product. Shoot it in a warm engine either via each throttle body while running, or just into the spark plug holes, and let it sit overnight. Might be worth a try as gummed rings or slight valve leakage via carbon deposits are common with modern fuels.

If you can, find someone with a leak-down cylinder compression tester to better determine the source of the low compression, if it's in fact real. They apply a predetermined input air PSI to the cylinder (like 80 PSI), and then determine the actual cylinder pressure via a calibrated small feed orifice after any leaks from valves or rings (down to about 60 PSI holding pressure versus 80 PSI input for aircraft engines, for example). Listening for whistling leaks at: oil filler opening = rings, throttle bodies = intake valve, or muffler outlet = exhaust valve, can help determine the source of any compression loss.

On the other hand, on a warm engine you'd want to be around 200 PSI if everything is good and clean according to Yamaha, via a traditional pump-up compression gauge most shops use.

Gary in Fairbanks

 
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Jumping back to the original thread for a sec, I finally got my '04 running. I had to charge the battery one time, change the plugs. Then I pulled the AIR stuff while I was at it. Held it WFO and cranked it...WHAM>>>it fired, ran up to about 8k and then quit. I cranked again WFO, nothing happened. So closed throttle, cranked. It started to hit on first one then another and then finally all four! So, WFO did NOT work for me. And my problem did not come from a quick start up/shut down but rather from sitting for a couple weeks without being started.

 
Your's sounds like a bad case of jealousy. She was just pissed at your for playing with the new Bonnie.

How old is the fuel in yours? Any chance of water in the tank?

 
1. Assuming the dealer charged for his 'service', you are well entitled to get your money back - if he refuses, then sue him in small claims court.

2. Publish the dealer's name here.

I'd have asked whether you had spark - but no fuel pressure works too.

 
Your's sounds like a bad case of jealousy. She was just pissed at your for playing with the new Bonnie.
How old is the fuel in yours? Any chance of water in the tank?
I suspected that jealousy thing....but I was just giving her a rest....

The fuel was fine but I found a new problem this am when I started for work at 5:30...no low beams! I did a little research on the forum and it looks like I might have blown the bulbs when I cranked the battery down. Must go out and check bulbs in parking lot at lunch. I'm not sure how low voltage cranking would effect the bulbs that do not come on until the bike starts if it wouldn't start. But the problems all started when I bought the Bonnie (named it Leroy Brown...it is black and bad, "..badder than old king kong, meaner than a junk yard dog")

 
I am going to drop the bike off at D&H where I bought it and let them adjust the valves, TBS, TPS, etc etc. I trust them.
Good choice.

I bought mine there and had them do the 600 mile. They seem to be very knowledgeable on FJRs. VERY reasonable service charges....and, best of all, nice folks too.

 
Your's sounds like a bad case of jealousy. She was just pissed at your for playing with the new Bonnie.
How old is the fuel in yours? Any chance of water in the tank?
I suspected that jealousy thing....but I was just giving her a rest....

The fuel was fine but I found a new problem this am when I started for work at 5:30...no low beams!
Apparently cranking it with low voltage (or just extended cranking) caused both low beam elements to go out. The bulbs are original, over 5 years/57,000 miles old. Guess they just couldn't take the surge or whatever from the prolonged cranking.

 
That's weird....switch isn't half way depressed? That's just weird. I hate them little electrical gremlin bastards.

 
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