Error code 100

[Violione]

Posting for Luvtoride: At first the bike cranked normally, hickuped and starter started spinning quickly. She checked the diAG and it reported error code is 100! Code 100? Has any one seen this code before. The bike has 70,000 miles on it, (2004A -non ABS).

On the phone I had Luvtoride to crank it while holding her hand over the exhausts to see if 1) compression is present and 2) if she can smell raw gas. Well there is compression but no smell of raw gas so based on the code I am thinking that the problem is with the fuel injection. edit: She also checked the fuses for the FI to see if one of them were blown, but both were OK. So what do you think?

 

[03HiYoSilver]

Violione,

I looked up the Manual Code List and Searched for Code 100 and could not find anything.

Hope you and Luvtoride find a solution to this puzzle.

 

[Violione]

Yep, we are baffled also. I have a Gen II manual and Heidi has the Gen I manual and error code 100 does not exists.

 

[Old Dog 48]

This is too wierd.

The exact same thing happened to me.

I just fininshed a 2K run through the Smoky Mts and Deals Gap. I'm glad this didn't happen while out there.

I am looking up the proceedure for doing the code check and found this posting.

Mine hasn't thrown an error code and I haven't found the button proceedure for checking codes (I can't remember how to do it).

Anyone have the button poking proceedure memorized or can tell me where it is?

 

[madmike2]

This is too wierd.Anyone have the button poking proceedure memorized or can tell me where it is?

Try this from the FAQ section:

Diagnostic Mode:(Appears to be the same for '03 - '05)

To enter Diagnostic Mode: Have the key turned off (kill switch on) and press the Select and Reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads "d1 AG". release the buttons.

(so far, same as prior models)

Use the "SELECT" select "Co" adjustment or the diagnostic mode "d1 AG". Press Select and Reset for 2 seconds. "d:01" should appear on the clock if you did everything right.

Press "SELECT" for the next code, Press "RESET" for the previous code.

Codes go from d:01 to d:70 -- go buy a manual for the codes.

Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 30

Scroll through the diagnostic codes to:

61 (the history of fault codes). If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer

 

[Geezer]

I would suspect bad fuel, maybe some crap clogging up the screen on the pump.

If possible, remove the tank and pour the fuel out into a pail and see what it looks like.

 

[Old Dog 48]

This is too wierd.Anyone have the button poking proceedure memorized or can tell me where it is?

Try this from the FAQ section:

Diagnostic Mode:(Appears to be the same for '03 - '05)

To enter Diagnostic Mode: Have the key turned off (kill switch on) and press the Select and Reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads "d1 AG". release the buttons.

(so far, same as prior models)

Use the "SELECT" select "Co" adjustment or the diagnostic mode "d1 AG". Press Select and Reset for 2 seconds. "d:01" should appear on the clock if you did everything right.

Press "SELECT" for the next code, Press "RESET" for the previous code.

Codes go from d:01 to d:70 -- go buy a manual for the codes.

Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 30

Scroll through the diagnostic codes to:

61 (the history of fault codes). If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer

 

[Old Dog 48]

This is too wierd.Anyone have the button poking proceedure memorized or can tell me where it is?

Try this from the FAQ section:

Diagnostic Mode:(Appears to be the same for '03 - '05)

To enter Diagnostic Mode: Have the key turned off (kill switch on) and press the Select and Reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads "d1 AG". release the buttons.

(so far, same as prior models)

Use the "SELECT" select "Co" adjustment or the diagnostic mode "d1 AG". Press Select and Reset for 2 seconds. "d:01" should appear on the clock if you did everything right.

Press "SELECT" for the next code, Press "RESET" for the previous code.

Codes go from d:01 to d:70 -- go buy a manual for the codes.

Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 30

Scroll through the diagnostic codes to:

61 (the history of fault codes). If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer

I think I did it as you described but the only codes it shows is 1,2,3&4. each time I push the Select it just goes up one more and at 4 it goes back to 1

 

[ionbeam]

Another diAG procedure is described here too, worded just a little different. You may want to check this out to confirm you did/didn't follow the procedure correctly.

 

[Old Dog 48]

Another diAG procedure is described here too, worded just a little different. You may want to check this out to confirm you did/didn't follow the procedure correctly.

Thanks. That is what I was looking for.

In looking at some other posts, I found Tom Barbers postin on changing the CO settings. I think the 1 through 4 refers to the cylinders. I'm in the wrong place.

The strangest thing about this condition is that after it coughed once, the engine seemed to spin almost freely. It was a very noticible change in the sound of the engine turning over. Almost as if there was no compression so I understand Violione's comments. Therefore, I don't think fuel has anything to do with it.

 

[ionbeam]

...The strangest thing about this condition is that after it coughed once, the engine seemed to spin almost freely...

I wasn't going to say anything about that until you satisfied yourself that it wasn't anything simple. You didn't mention the model year or number of miles on your FJR. If you have a compression gauge with the rare 10mm spark plug adapter you can shortcut things and do a compression check. Four readings of 0 psi is a Bad Thing. Anything else could be as simple as a loose piece of carbon holding a valve open. Sending positive thoughts your way.

And yes, it does sound like you were in the CO mode.

 

[S76]

This is too weird. Two of the exact same type of failures in 2 days.

The first one had 70K miles on it. How many miles on yours dog?

I sure hope this doesn't turn out to be what I think it may be. Best to you both.

 

[ngarider]

I'd want to put eyes on the cam chain and tensioner.

 

[S76]

I'd want to put eyes on the cam chain and tensioner.

Exactly. What worries me is they report it cranks over faster now. That spells bent valves, but I really hope I'm wrong. Then again, is it possible to skip a toothe, loose some compression due to improper valve timing and not bend a valve?

I don't know, but that would be a better scenario.

 

[HaulinAshe]

It would almost never skip a tooth on the exhaust cam. Intake is possible, but that should result in retarded intake timing and probably bent a valve.

In any case, I would not turn anything over without some serious visual inspections, leading to compression tests etc.

Doesn't sound good at all.

Violione, I sent you PM.

 

[luvtoride]

The bike is in the shop right now. I am aware that the problem is likely a bad outcome. Old Dog, I will report findings FYI, Heidi

 

[S76]

Looks like LTR is bringing her bike to CT for the fall foliage. On a trailer. We'll get it torn down to see what is going on in that motor and do some routine maintenace at the same time.

While she figures out the logistics of getting it here I need to prep the operating room. What a mess!

Can't pile the junk much higher!

A CR 125 engine I tried to rebuild but can't get a crank for. Just too old.

Everything must go! Got FJR work to do.

I'll update as we go along. To be continued................

 

[Intech]

I am aware that the problem is likely a bad outcome.

Stop that right now! Only positive vibes. As I told you, I will be in that neck of the woods this weekend. I should stop by and sprinkle some Sam Adams on it!

 

[S76]

Here is the damage report on LTR's bike.

We were quite fearful the bike had skiped the cam chain so she got it up to CT so I could have a look. First thing I did was to check the valve clearance and it was GOOD! Bent valves don't close you know, so that is a good indicator. After that I cobbed it back together just enough to attempt a start.....................and it started, ran fine. Except for the quart of oil it pumped on the floor in a heartbeat with the cam cover not on.

Just another flooded engine. And she did say it was the classic case of starting it up cold and shutting it off a minute later to put it away one night.

So she left it and while the bike is here I'll give it a going through. Pulled the rear suspention/swingarm and greased everything. New tires. All fluids, forks, etc.

Here is a pic of it

Cams out because I am changing the shims and chain and tensioner

The aftermarket wiring on this bike was a mess. I pulled it all out and am starting over

She should be back in the saddle in a few weeks. Not in time for EOM though.

Pretty much a happy ending. Way better than $800 worth of valve work.

:yahoo: