Extremely Tight Oil Drain Plug
- Thread starter pacoonass
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Kevin Daly
YES I ran the fatty over!!
did you buy it new? if it is real tight, IMO I would take it to where you bought it and ask them to change the oil. These shouldnt be that tight and can strip the threads in the pan (thats not good). I dont know the torque values, I have been doing so long I just use a boxend. But if anyone is going to **** it up make sure it is the dealership that sold it to you.
twowheelnut
R.I.P. Our Motorcycling Friend
Is one of ponyfool's kids working the assembly line at Yamaha? :lol:
If you can't break it by a socket or hand wrench, are you sure you're turning it the right way? You are working on it upside down, don't forget (and you wouldn't be the first to get that backwards, either).
If you can't break it by a socket or hand wrench, are you sure you're turning it the right way? You are working on it upside down, don't forget (and you wouldn't be the first to get that backwards, either).
Kevin Daly
YES I ran the fatty over!!
:lol:
yeah good one. I have to double check everytime on that one, did that too many times
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
Other than the above two replys, I am pretty sure a breaker bar is the method of choice. Unfortunately, Yamaha deliveris a lot of FJRs with oil drain bolts that are way over torqued as you are finding out. Just know that some have finally gotten it off to find stripped threads.
Kevin Daly
YES I ran the fatty over!!
...and this is why you should let Yama do the work; they screw it, they have to fix it.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
I hear you on this, but sometimes depending on the individual details, getting a bike to a dealer for a simple oil change can be a major PITA.
Kevin Daly
YES I ran the fatty over!!
Toecutter
What would DoG do?
And when you finally get it off, take it to the local real auto parts store and get some copper washers to use on it, AND both the final drive plugs. Reusable over and over. Don't tighten it with a breaker bar either, a 3/8" ratchet has always been good enough for me....
Oil change tips.
Oil change tips.
bryguy322
Well-known member
I just changed mine and had the same problem. So I did a quick search here and found many others had the same problem. I used a torque wrench to break it loose, couldn't with a regular ratchet. Almost pulled the bike over trying. Anyway, I watched the torque wrench to see how much it took to break it loose. Almost 80 ft/lbs.
I didn't replace the washer, still the factory one, and have no problems with it leaking. The owners manual says to retighten it to something like 35 ft/lbs. That seemed way to tight. Mid 20s is what i went on it and no leaking yet.
I didn't replace the washer, still the factory one, and have no problems with it leaking. The owners manual says to retighten it to something like 35 ft/lbs. That seemed way to tight. Mid 20s is what i went on it and no leaking yet.
Thanks for the good advice guys, I think it would be smart to let the dealer do it and witness the condition of the threads after the plug is removed. Good post knowing that it took 80 ftlbs to break it. That's way over the factory torque spec of 31 ftlbs. I don't believe it needs to be that tight. I don't like to deal with service departments because too many dealerships have idiots employed in the back.
Lee B.
Well-known member
I had same problem a week ago. I used a crescent wrench with handle down inside a 2' long piece of pipe. I worked from the side and steadied the bike with left hand and pulled slowly with right and it did come loose. The crush washer was crushed so it got replaced. I didn't torque it down, just did it tight then about 1/3 turn. The crush washers are okay for several uses if you tighten this way. You crush a bit more each change. No leaks so far and I'm ready for my 600 mile change this weekend, well, will be at about 675 actually.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
I disagree with that. The crush washers I take off are flatter than a pancake. I don't see them crushing any more on subsequent tightenings. Manual says to replace the crush washer. I am just a saying.
Lots of folks re-use them with no problems but they only crush once. I've got about 20 on hand and always replace them.
Totally agree with SkooterG, I use a new crush washer everytime. They are cheap , why not buy a bunch of them . I like the feeling of the washer being crushed and then just tighten a tad more and that is enough. Ignore that factory torque . Never had a leak.
Mac
Being anal is okay. But some things are just too simple. I'm no wrench and don't even play one on TV, but do my own oil changes. My '03 has 46,000 miles, has never had a new crush washer, does not leak, never, not a drop. Hell, I don't even use a torque wrench (I have one) to put the plug in. Just get it reasonably snug. That's it. Same drill on my four wheeled vehicles. Never leak. Not a problem getting the plug out subsequently, either.
Just and FYI, the oem crush washer is a real crush washer that is essentially a one time use item. Yeah sure, it can be used again w/o leaking, but then it's just a washer. The point of a crush washer is to prevent potential damage to the threads, and to seal. If you have mechanical empathy, no worries. If you don't have a great "feel" for how tight to tighten things, buy some new crush washers or go get some aluminum or copper ones from the auto parts store. The solid aluminum or copper washers will crush a bit more each time, allowing repeated use until they get real thin while still providing a margin of safety. The oem crush washers crush completely the first time they are used, and re-use negates the safety factor. All will still seal, but that's not really the point of a crush washer in this application.
Steel bolt, aluminum pan............... think about it. Which is going to give first if you over do it? Yep, the expensive one. :lol: :lol:
Steel bolt, aluminum pan............... think about it. Which is going to give first if you over do it? Yep, the expensive one. :lol: :lol:
cota95
RI Beach Pop
30k on my 04, 35k on my 06, oil changed around 3k each time, same washer they came with, no leaks.
I'm just sayin...YMMV
As far as the overtightened drain plug, take it to the dealer and asked them to loosen the plug for you and then retighten and do your own oil change at home. A guy I know had the same problem on his 06ae, decieded to loosen it at home, and then asked me to trailer his his bike to the dealer to get the stripped oil plug repaired.
I'm just sayin...YMMV
As far as the overtightened drain plug, take it to the dealer and asked them to loosen the plug for you and then retighten and do your own oil change at home. A guy I know had the same problem on his 06ae, decieded to loosen it at home, and then asked me to trailer his his bike to the dealer to get the stripped oil plug repaired.
big ears
Well-known member
My roadstar didn't use crush washers. It had an aluminum pan and steel bolt.
iboldguy
Well-known member
I just changed my oil & filter. The plug was tight but came loose without too much force. Just tightened it till it felt not too tight with 1/2 drive and not max force. There was a crushed washer which was so squished I couldn't pry it off so left it - no leaks 24hrs one short ride.
