First Farkel

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

LAF

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Messages
1,046
Reaction score
29
Location
Harrisburg, PA
Well slowly gaining use of my right wrist and I use the term "use" loosely.

So anyway the first time I tipped the FJR onto the side stand (with spotters in the showroom) I said wow you are a sexy bike but did you have to wear a stiletto heal too?

Not surprised as the LT needed the same fix. So I got one of these today and "put" it on today. What a very nice product for a great price. I just think it is a super product!!! I did rough the bottom of the side stand and the base of the plate with some sand paper and dabbed a bit of high temp sealant and screwed the screws down with a bit of blue locktite on the screws.

kick%20stand.jpg


I still need work on fine motor skills and since I am right handed I need to keep working on it. I can screw caps on bottles and stuff like that but trying to start those screws was a wake up call to say the least.

I wish I was putting theses on but need to hold off I think? Gonna ask for some thoughts in another thread.

Anyway these are sweet too!

slider%20front.jpg


slider%20side.jpg


No vested interest in either manufacturer other then I think they are fine products and I am a happy customer.

I know nothing earth shattering for you guys but I did include pics :D

 
Hey, man, do NOT put off putting on the frame sliders; especially if you're a "short legger", you're likely to REALLY regret it. Better safe than sorry, and it only takes a few minutes. . .

 
A word of caution !

The sliders mount in place of the motor mounts so be sure to torque mounts in proper sequence.

May you have a speedy recovery..

 
Thanks guys I know nothing exciting.

I will put the sliders on but I need to see if someone close in my area can help me get her Tupperware and gas tank off. I have a bunch of stuff to do just would like a hand on the first Tupperware removal. I did not want to put the sliders on if they would need to come off on getting her nakid.

I will have the sliders on as suggested here over and over before I throw a leg over her to ride. I see the value and know first hand that big bikes go boom when dropped.

Lee

 
Your '10 should be identical to my 08 and you need not remove the tupperware. They should just bolt on and you should be able to able to later remove the fairings without removing the sliders.

 
Here is cut and paste from my OES Sliders (Assuming mounting position is the same motor mounts).

1. Start on the left side of the bike (do not loosen both sides at once) by removing the engine mount

screw(10mm hex/Allen screw) circled in the illustration( B) .

2. The long slider goes on the left side. Lightly lubricate the supplied screw and install the frame slider.

3. If using a torque wrench, tighten screw to 35 lb/ft.

4. Make sure the left side is tight before starting on the right side.

5. For the right side, use the same procedure- remove the engine mount screw circled in the illustration (A) and

install the short frame slider in this position.

 
LAF - I'll not ask what happened to the wrist -

but fully encourage you to do whatever is needed to make it better - PT, pain endurance, etc.

Sorry if I'm intruding..

but I have a right knee I wish I had rehab'd better.

Oh, yes, get the sliders installed first...

 
LAF - I'll not ask what happened to the wrist -but fully encourage you to do whatever is needed to make it better - PT, pain endurance, etc.

Sorry if I'm intruding..

but I have a right knee I wish I had rehab'd better.

Oh, yes, get the sliders installed first...
No intrusion at all. I am getting the same advice from many people.

I laid my 07 BMW LT down at 65 mph out in the Badlands about 5 weeks ago. Totaled the bike and that money went to the new FJR. Broken left ankle, broken right wrist with plate and seven screws, and broke my neck at C1 and C2 which is what holds your head on your spine.

The neck is the biggie and is why I asked for help on a Tupperware removal. It is hard to get my bi-focals to focus when I can not move my head in the hard brace to get them to focus.

Thanks for telling me to do what it takes to fully recover. At 53 it takes a bit longer these days.

 
Well installed one of the flavors of Snake Bite Repellent today. Some like chocolate, some like vanilla.

It was pretty plug and play. "Nothing new under the Sun" for most of you though. Not much room around the fork area, especially the right side, so routing and fastening , and where the piggyback plug gets tucked to are pretty important. I certainly understand the principle of this preventive "farkel" now.

Just a quick pic of the right side all but done.

gpr.jpg


Just doing what my body allows at this point but should be running hot wire and ground to the FuzeBlock soon, installing the FuzeBlock on another forum members nifty bracket that swings up under the rear seat. and then tapping for switched power for the FuzeBlock.

Next will be a riser triple tree, fork springs, and Pensky shock install, and a quick check of the steering stem nut torque later in the week, I hope.

 
Add these horns while you have the plastic off (makes install quicker). Direct replacement (mount to the top bracket bolt area) , No relay needed.

Just added the 500/600's and love'm!

PIAA Horns

Link to other install threads. Clicky

 
Well continuing on my farkel to hell project I got to the forks today. Again this has been covered pretty well just figured everyone loves pics.

I am not sure this is what a 2 mile bike is supposed to look like...........

forkless.jpg


This is the kit from Lee at Traxxion. It has a spring buffer the black thing, and a spacer. You do not use the original spacer, spring or washer. This shows the Traxxion on top and OEM on the bottom.

fork%20old%20new.jpg


I did call to check on the MM distance as it is so much different then factory 180mm of free space, fork collapsed and OEM is 100MM. I went with it and made a simple dip stick out of an old peice of thin rod and made a T hung it on the fork and filled till I touched it. I was pretty fussy and know they are very close to say the least.

Also there was not the same amount of oil in each fork but I did not measure it. I just remember someone saying in a joking manner that Yamaha could not get that right so I made it a point to look.

I used 1.1 Omni springs, and 10W oil.

Tomorrow is riser triple tree, button up the forks and triple tree, and install brake calipers and wheel to spec torque.

If you look at the first picture the tail section I mounted the FuzeBlock yesterday and used the plate a forum member makes to fit in between that section. I really like the plate and FuzeBlock mounted that way it saves a bunch of space.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
No pics today, boo hiss!!

All I can say is I got my riser on today. Drilled the ignition switch without any drama. Pretty strait forward and man the bars sit really nice.

I also installed the PIAA horns that were recommended by ScottyUSN, and is a nice product. Had to extend the left ground but had read I might need to elsewhere so I was prepared. Also on my 10 I could not see upper holes to mount so I used the existing with 10mm bolt heads to hang the new ones. I also used a strip of high density foam 1 sided tape to the new bracket to dampen vibration. No clearance issues at all.

 
Well since I ripped you guys off yesterday with a pic of the PIAA installed so here is that.

piaa%20horns.jpg


Then I looked at the top shock bolt on the right side and it did not look good. Can you see it hiding back there? I asked earlier today how to deal with it and got a prompt response from dcarver and I was on my way.

upper%20shock%20bolt.jpg


Next thing that kind of through me was the stock adjuster cables were routed over these 2 connectors. I needed to disconnect them and of course dielectric grease. I need to push the cables over to the left side by sliding them across that connector and slide the adjuster along the bottom and push it through the rubber in front of the tire. Not sure that makes sense but I read every article I could on this and nothing mentioned the way it had to come out that I read.

adjuster%20routing.jpg


This is my BlackJack and I use this for a bunch of stuff, I used it on each side of the headers on the pan to do the forks and used it today to do the rear shock it is a nice tool.

blackjack.jpg


OK got it out

oem%20shock.jpg


Need to get this back in. I keep saying about the Sock Shock and I am sure it is not new to dirt rats, I think it makes sense for sure. The OEM is covered, so must be something to it.

shock%20in%20the%20sock.jpg


Then I need to mount the remote. Well when you loose the Factory adjuster you gain 3 long sharp studs where the adjuster mounted. It also happened that my new Penske Remote wanted to sit against one. Not a good answer for me. I cant drive so I used this clear tubing I had and cut it short and spun the bolts on until they squished good and tight. I will go after black sometime and do them over. Probably spray the bolts black also.

stud%20covers.jpg


All in all not a bad job except the cost of course.

And I have a pretty easy boss who can be bribed easily with food.

the%20boss.jpg


 
Well continuing on my farkel to hell project I got to the forks today. Again this has been covered pretty well just figured everyone loves pics.
I am not sure this is what a 2 mile bike is supposed to look like...........
2 miles?

When you Farkle, you don't mess around.

 
Love this thread! Thanks for taking us along with you on your farkle journey!

Great looking '10 model. Haven't seen too many photos of those on the forum yet.

And enough of the teasers of the car...........what is it?

 
Love this thread! Thanks for taking us along with you on your farkle journey!
Great looking '10 model. Haven't seen too many photos of those on the forum yet.

And enough of the teasers of the car...........what is it?
Thanks to all who are following.

I guess the biggest reason I am sharing is because it is a 10 model. I believe it has subtle differences to other years. The two holes shown for mounting horns is not there, and the description I have found in removing the remote adjuster for the rear shock have been different also.

The car is a 03 PT Cruiser GT Turbo. It is a smoker and I love running up on kids with it. It has a Stage II Turbo, a GReady Boost controller running 21 psi, 3" exhaust, upgraded wastgate, and upgraded spring adjust blow off valve and is a slap stick. Full leather heated seats and every option available. It has 32,000 miles on it. In the 8 years I have owned it only the fist year did I have to have emission check on it at inspection time. Here in Pa if you drive under 5000 miles a year you are exempt from emission testing. My bike is my primary transportation. It is a fun reliable car and has great capacity because all the seats can come out of it. It is a telephone booth though, but I have sent some fart can boys home crying after they messed with me.

The Boss is 10 years old and has mellowed with age. I delivered him and all his brothers and sisters. My sister has 2 of his sisters, and my former spouse has the other three, and mother and father! Great dogs!

 
Top