FJR Aux Lights

[StratTuner]

Ever since I replaced the stock headlight bulbs with LED units, I've noticed that there isn't much light available in steep turns. Consider leaning in to a turn on a freeway onramp that travels almost full circle.

The LED lights spread nicely across the road, side to side, with good coverage in low and high beam IF you are moving straight ahead. I have to say that the FJR puts out so much good light it's taken me years to add aux. lights. On my old, single headlinght Honda NC-700X, aux lights were one of the first mods.

That said, I decided to add Aux lights with the goal of making it fully REVEARSEABLE. I've done that as best I can and the pictures are here:


and here ... (more text below!)



May be interesting points:

- I used a relay connected to the left turn signal light, the one that is "always on" when the key is turned on. The relay stops the aux. lights from being ON when the key is turned OFF. I realize most of you know that, but I include the relay description for those who might not know. I was that person once, and finding out what a "relay" does was a gift.

- The power comes from a wire to the battery with an IN-LINE 10 amp fuse. That same connection also drives the heated seat I installed.

- The ON/OFF switch required drilling a small hole. That is not reversable, but it's convenient.

- the lights are attached to small lengths of aluminum "flat bar". One hole drilled in each end. I removed the rear-view mirrors and sandwiched the flat bar between the mount and the mirror holder. These have the advantage of being on the horizontal! I considered putting the flatbar under the entire mirror assembly (where it mounts to the motorcycle), but that would mean bending the flat bar back to the horizontal. I can't bend that small piece of flat bar accurately enough to make that work.

- the ON/OFF toggle switch is out of the way but still reachable when riding.

- The small piece of "high-vis" tape on the hand-warmer control is there to help me see what it's set to.

I hope someone finds this interesting. I guess that's the point of a forum, after all. My next idea is to introduce two wire "quick connects" under each light so that I can replace the lights easily. It might be nice to swap in different lights to see what works best. I don't want to remove all the plastic again to do that, so the wire plugs should be outside to make the lights easily swappable.

thanks for taking the time to look and read.

next road trip: San Diego to Omaha camping along the way... there and back... in July.. more on that later.

-----

 

[rbentnail]

May be interesting points:

- the lights are attached to small lengths of aluminum "flat bar". One hole drilled in each end. I removed the rear-view mirrors and sandwiched the flat bar between the mount and the mirror holder. These have the advantage of being on the horizontal! I considered putting the flatbar under the entire mirror assembly (where it mounts to the motorcycle), but that would mean bending the flat bar back to the horizontal. I can't bend that small piece of flat bar accurately enough to make that work.

Have you found that the mirrors vibrate out of place? IIRC there's a 3-ball and detent setup there that you've defeated by inserting the aluminium plate. I use bb's in place of the balls when they fell out yrs ago upon disassembly. Or did you defeat the mirror swivel feature altogether by tightening down so much that they won't move at all?

 

[StratTuner]

3 ball detents: the plate that accepts the three detents is still there, and I put in a piece of soft, rubber-maid brand, plastic on the side with the three bb's so that they would indent into the soft plastic and NOT the flat bar. I considered using bicycle inner tube rubber for that, but the plastic will form to the detent BBs and last longer.f

The vibration, if any, is the same as it was before. Like you, I dislike vibration and would have taken the whole thing out if it caused that.

Swivel: I believe the swivel with the three balls is meant to hold the mirror in place until it needs to pivot to protect itself in a crash or tip-over. That dynamic still works. Push on the mirrors, and they still turn. I did have to remove several of the washers on that bolt proportionate to the flat bar width.

 

[RiderJoe]

Hi @StratTuner , one of my winter projects was adding auxiliary lights to my bike (yellow for increased visibility). I mounted them to my T-Rex engine guards - for now, but I am considering of mounting them higher. That place would be at the mirrors, similar to how you mounted yours, but below the mirrors, not between them. My thinking is to replace the acorn nuts at the bottom of the mirror pivots with coupling nuts, which would allow me to bolt the flat bars to the other side of the coupling nuts. I would probably have to file the end of the coupling nuts, or cut them shorter so that there would be more surface area for the flat bars to press against. This is the type of nut I was thinking about: M8 X 1.25-Pitch 24mm Length Metric Hex Coupling Nut 304 Stainless Steel Rod Coupling Nuts（Silver Color 4） https://a.co/d/aSqqDXd
This setup would probably work, but I am concerned that the lights would turn relatively easily out of place because there is only one bolt that would hold the flat bars to the bottom of the mirrors. It’s worth a try though.
I connected the wires coming from the back of the lights to a harness I made to run the under the fairing (wiring for the power, and the dimmer/switch) using Sumitomo M090 2-position waterproof connectors, so that I can switch out the lights easily later if I have to. I pushed the connectors inside the fairing so they are not visible from the outside, but can be pulled out easily to access them.

 

[StratTuner]

Hi @StratTuner , one of my winter projects was adding auxiliary lights to my bike (yellow for increased visibility). I mounted them to my T-Rex engine guards - for now, but I am considering of mounting them higher. That place would be at the mirrors, similar to how you mounted yours, but below the mirrors, not between them. My thinking is to replace the acorn nuts at the bottom of the mirror pivots with coupling nuts, which would allow me to bolt the flat bars to the other side of the coupling nuts. I would probably have to file the end of the coupling nuts, or cut them shorter so that there would be more surface area for the flat bars to press against. This is the type of nut I was thinking about: M8 X 1.25-Pitch 24mm Length Metric Hex Coupling Nut 304 Stainless Steel Rod Coupling Nuts（Silver Color 4） https://a.co/d/aSqqDXd
This setup would probably work, but I am concerned that the lights would turn relatively easily out of place because there is only one bolt that would hold the flat bars to the bottom of the mirrors. It’s worth a try though.
I connected the wires coming from the back of the lights to a harness I made to run the under the fairing (wiring for the power, and the dimmer/switch) using Sumitomo M090 2-position waterproof connectors, so that I can switch out the lights easily later if I have to. I pushed the connectors inside the fairing so they are not visible from the outside, but can be pulled out easily to access them.

I look forward to seeing pictures so that I can figure out what "coupling nuts" might be.

I adjusted the lights for up/down left/right tonight and that went well. The lights I use now throw in a broad pattern which is good since the stock headlights focus more narrowly.

The FJR lights are already so good, installing aux lights is just not very satisfying. I suppose I could install yellow lenses over them for increased daytime visibility. I need to go for a ride on a road with no street lights, that will show off the aux lights and make me like them more.

The FJR is not a project bike the way the Honda NC700X was. Just about everything I want to add to it is already there.


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[RiderJoe]

I included a link to the coupling nuts on Amazon in my post above. They are ‘tubes’ that are hexagonal on the outside and are threaded all the way through.

 

[vzhq16]

Interesting discussion. While the lighting on the current generation of FJR is excellent, I too wanted to add auxiliary lighting to help with making the bike stand out as not just another vehicle on the road. I also wanted to make them a different color from the very white headlights so I got a pair of switchbacks from Amazon. I mounted them low again, because I wanted to be noticed and not so much to add to the already excellent headlights. I decided upon replacing the upper front fender bolt with a longer bolt and a hard plastic spacer to buy just enough clearance to keep the light mount from touching the fender. I wired mine with a power source from an auxiliary fuse block mounted under the seat. The trigger signal is passed from a Clearwater high beam adapter as well as a relay mounted under the rear tail section. I added a switch to the Helibars riser just to provide a way to defeat the lights. When the bike is keyed on and the switch is in the on position, the auxiliary lights come on yellow. The light pattern is a rectangle so I have them aimed pretty low so as not to blind oncoming traffic. They are very bright. When the high beams are turned on another relay kills power to the yellow LED lead and the auxiliary lights turn white and aim upwards a bit much like the high beams. This way they really do add noticeably to the amount of light thrown down the road as well as off to the sides. I love the look and the functionality of them. I also added a third relay that will allow the switchback function to work in conjunction with the turn signals. I generally only activate that when presented with a foggy ride.

 

[RedRiderMN]

@vzhq16

Do you happen to have a photo showing the front view of the lights?

BTW, nice job on the install.

 

[Bobnos]

What lights are you using, and what is the watt draw?

 

[StratTuner]

What lights are you using, and what is the watt draw?

The Amazon Link is <HERE>.
One reviewer noted the lights draw just under 2 amps.
Specs are:

LED Light Bar, Northpole Light [2 Pack] 18W CREE LED​

Item Dimensions LxWxH	3.82 x 2.56 x 3.15 inches
Brand	Northpole Light
Color	White
Form Factor	Bar
Auto Part Position	Front
Connectivity Technology	USB
Item Weight	1.32 Pounds
Material	Aluminum, Stainless Steel
Water Resistance Level	Waterproof
Remote Control Included?	No

 

[StratTuner]

Interesting discussion. While the lighting on the current generation of FJR is excellent, I too wanted to add auxiliary lighting to help with making the bike stand out as not just another vehicle on the road. I also wanted to make them a different color from the very white headlights so I got a pair of switchbacks from Amazon. I mounted them low again, because I wanted to be noticed and not so much to add to the already excellent headlights. I decided upon replacing the upper front fender bolt with a longer bolt and a hard plastic spacer to buy just enough clearance to keep the light mount from touching the fender. I wired mine with a power source from an auxiliary fuse block mounted under the seat. The trigger signal is passed from a Clearwater high beam adapter as well as a relay mounted under the rear tail section. I added a switch to the Helibars riser just to provide a way to defeat the lights. When the bike is keyed on and the switch is in the on position, the auxiliary lights come on yellow. The light pattern is a rectangle so I have them aimed pretty low so as not to blind oncoming traffic. They are very bright. When the high beams are turned on another relay kills power to the yellow LED lead and the auxiliary lights turn white and aim upwards a bit much like the high beams. This way they really do add noticeably to the amount of light thrown down the road as well as off to the sides. I love the look and the functionality of them. I also added a third relay that will allow the switchback function to work in conjunction with the turn signals. I generally only activate that when presented with a foggy ride.

Wow! That some kind of wiring wizardry there! Well done!
Link to those lights?

 

[vzhq16]

@vzhq16

Do you happen to have a photo showing the front view of the lights?

BTW, nice job on the install.

The bike just got parked from a 145 mile ride today so, she's not the cleanest but, you'll get the idea. I didn't do anything fancy with the bolt other than it is a little longer and stainless. The "spacers" are just something I had left over from a flat screen mounting kit. I have them splayed out just a little to make best use of the beam pattern and you can see that they not only change color with the high beams, they also raise up a bit as well.

 

[GOFFjr1300]

The bike just got parked from a 145 mile ride today so, she's not the cleanest but, you'll get the idea. I didn't do anything fancy with the bolt other than it is a little longer and stainless. The "spacers" are just something I had left over from a flat screen mounting kit. I have them splayed out just a little to make best use of the beam pattern and you can see that they not only change color with the high beams, they also raise up a bit as well.

Nice. I have the same setup, with FZ1 from Fuzbloc, and two ext relay for the high - low beam. Onely thing, I took the signallead from the main relay at the tront. In that case the aux light on high beam, and the ledbeam wouldend com on when I only use the " panic" flasch putton on the wright side of the e handelbar. When I pressed that one, the rugular hight beam only came on. As they are on a thifferent circuit??
?. The highbeam signal cable comes from the main lelay In the front. The flasch current to directly to the highbeam?? . Makes me confused

 

[GOFFjr1300]

Nice. I have the same setup, with FZ1 from Fuzbloc, and two ext relay for the high - low beam. Onely thing, I took the signallead from the main relay at the tront. In that case the aux light on high beam, and the ledbeam wouldend com on when I only use the " panic" flasch putton on the wright side of the e handelbar. When I pressed that one, the rugular hight beam only came on. As they are on a thifferent circuit??
?. The highbeam signal cable comes from the main lelay In the front. The flasch current to directly to the highbeam?? . Makes me confused

Also but som at the back.

 

[vzhq16]

Nice. I have the same setup, with FZ1 from Fuzbloc, and two ext relay for the high - low beam. Onely thing, I took the signallead from the main relay at the tront. In that case the aux light on high beam, and the ledbeam wouldend com on when I only use the " panic" flasch putton on the wright side of the e handelbar. When I pressed that one, the rugular hight beam only came on. As they are on a thifferent circuit??
?. The highbeam signal cable comes from the main lelay In the front. The flasch current to directly to the highbeam?? . Makes me confused

The lighting on the 2016+ bikes is very different. That's why the relays and the Clearwater Lighting high beam tap are necessary. The LED lights get +12V whenever the bike is running. Yamaha designed the lights to change modes by getting grounded or un-grounded. The same goes for the horn.

 

[GOFFjr1300]

The lighting on the 2016+ bikes is very different. That's why the relays and the Clearwater Lighting high beam tap are necessary. The LED lights get +12V whenever the bike is running. Yamaha designed the lights to change modes by getting grounded or un-grounded. The same goes for the horn.

The lighting on the 2016+ bikes is very different. That's why the relays and the Clearwater Lighting high beam tap are necessary. The LED lights get +12V whenever the bike is running. Yamaha designed the lights to change modes by getting grounded or un-grounded. The same goes for the horn.

Mine is 2007 mod, so it a little different.....

 

[4BlueSkies]

Ever since I replaced the stock headlight bulbs with LED units, I've noticed that there isn't much light available in steep turns. Consider leaning in to a turn on a freeway onramp that travels almost full circle.

The LED lights spread nicely across the road, side to side, with good coverage in low and high beam IF you are moving straight ahead. I have to say that the FJR puts out so much good light it's taken me years to add aux. lights. On my old, single headlinght Honda NC-700X, aux lights were one of the first mods.

That said, I decided to add Aux lights with the goal of making it fully REVEARSEABLE. I've done that as best I can and the pictures are here:
View attachment 6628

and here ... (more text below!)

View attachment 6629

May be interesting points:

- I used a relay connected to the left turn signal light, the one that is "always on" when the key is turned on. The relay stops the aux. lights from being ON when the key is turned OFF. I realize most of you know that, but I include the relay description for those who might not know. I was that person once, and finding out what a "relay" does was a gift.

- The power comes from a wire to the battery with an IN-LINE 10 amp fuse. That same connection also drives the heated seat I installed.

- The ON/OFF switch required drilling a small hole. That is not reversable, but it's convenient.

- the lights are attached to small lengths of aluminum "flat bar". One hole drilled in each end. I removed the rear-view mirrors and sandwiched the flat bar between the mount and the mirror holder. These have the advantage of being on the horizontal! I considered putting the flatbar under the entire mirror assembly (where it mounts to the motorcycle), but that would mean bending the flat bar back to the horizontal. I can't bend that small piece of flat bar accurately enough to make that work.

- the ON/OFF toggle switch is out of the way but still reachable when riding.

- The small piece of "high-vis" tape on the hand-warmer control is there to help me see what it's set to.

I hope someone finds this interesting. I guess that's the point of a forum, after all. My next idea is to introduce two wire "quick connects" under each light so that I can replace the lights easily. It might be nice to swap in different lights to see what works best. I don't want to remove all the plastic again to do that, so the wire plugs should be outside to make the lights easily swappable.

thanks for taking the time to look and read.

next road trip: San Diego to Omaha camping along the way... there and back... in July.. more on that later.

-----

StratTuner / vzhq16 — Thanks for posting the photos and explaining how you set up your lights. Thanks also to everyone else for fleshing out details.

I’ve been wanting to add lights to my FJR and reading these posts was a big help to me.

 

[Ridelikethewind]

I also have the same lights on my 2014. I wired 2 separate switches for each color. They are surprisingly good for how inexpensive they are.

 

[rush70583]

Also but som at the back.

Love the lights you added to the back.

 

[StratTuner]

Post Project thoughts...

I swapped in the kind of lights that have a magnifying lens in front of the LEDs. They worked fine but duplicated what the stock lights already do so well!

I've settled on the square lights (pictured as before) that put out more dispersed lights.

The best change was wiring the lights with a "quick connect" so that I can swap lights WITHOUT opening the plastic on the dashboard. The quick connects tuck into the vents on either side of the stock headlights. They're hidden until you need them.

Many thanks to those who put up pictures of what they've done.