I see posts about FJR owners using various oils (Yamalube, Valvoline, Mobil1, and so on). I'm curious about experience and reasons for using various oils. I am especially interested in T6 Rotella with FJR1300. T6 Rotella only meets diesel engine API specs and JASO MA/MA2. Shell does not address using T6 products with O2 sensors and catalytic converters. Since T6 is a diesel equipment oil (without clutch killing friction modifiers) it probably still includes ZDDP which fouls O2 sensors and catalytic converters. Neverhtheless I see posts about FJR1300s with many many miles/km on T6. Have there been no O2 sensor or cat fouling issues?
FJR1300 Oil
- Thread starter #Rocket
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RossKean
Well-known member
Discussed MANY times. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) has been used in (and is still used in) many motor oils. Typically higher concentrations in diesel oils although concentrations have been reduced in recent years. I have never read about any instance where Rotella T6 (or T4) diesel oil was attributed as the cause of any engine, O2 sensor or catalytic converter related problems in an FJR (or other motorcycle). Personally, I have used T6 almost exclusively on two different Gen II FJRs for close to 300,000 miles.
In general, use an oil that meets Yamaha's viscosity requirements and JASO MA/MA2 specs and it is most unlikely you will have any oil-related issues. No point in discussions about the relative merits of Yamalube, Castrol, Lucas, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Pennzoil etc. Everyone seems to have their favorite and each has been discussed ad infinitum. Search function on this forum is good...
Edit: Some people have advocated adding additional ZDDP (i.e. STP oil treatment) to regular motorcycle oil. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it - more is not necessarily better, especially when you get over 1200-1500 ppm. In addition to catalytic converter damage, there are reports that it may cause pitting or spalling damage to engine components.
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roger dodger
Well-known member
Rocket, Many FJRs have run many different oils and no O2 sensor issues or Cat issues. We used to like Zinc to protect the valve train.
I run T6 and/or T4 so I may save some $ and at 50/50 I get a nice 10/40 Synthetic Blend that's better than most.
My 2003 has 75k and my 2013 has 55m and both run like new! YMMV
I run T6 and/or T4 so I may save some $ and at 50/50 I get a nice 10/40 Synthetic Blend that's better than most.
My 2003 has 75k and my 2013 has 55m and both run like new! YMMV
WBill
Well-known member
HI:
JASO is "Japanese Automotive Standards Organization" and their "MA" label indicates their highest standard for four-cycle (stroke) motorcycle engines. If the oil you choose has a label that indicates JASO MA, and the weight is up to factory specs, you're good to go.
The way I understand it, many automotive motor oil additives will not allow a wet clutch, such as the ones in our FJR's, to function properly.
I had been using Shell Rotella T6 for the past 90,000 miles or so, but last time, I couldn't get it. So, I just looked for an oil that had the JASO MA label. WBill
JASO is "Japanese Automotive Standards Organization" and their "MA" label indicates their highest standard for four-cycle (stroke) motorcycle engines. If the oil you choose has a label that indicates JASO MA, and the weight is up to factory specs, you're good to go.
The way I understand it, many automotive motor oil additives will not allow a wet clutch, such as the ones in our FJR's, to function properly.
I had been using Shell Rotella T6 for the past 90,000 miles or so, but last time, I couldn't get it. So, I just looked for an oil that had the JASO MA label. WBill
Thanks for your response WBill. I have used T6 (or T4) in all my farm equipment and recreational equipment for years. But this is the first time I have ran T6 in a bike with a catalytic converter and O2 sensor. I started my new-to-me (with 25k miles) 2006 FJR on T6 a couple thousand miles ago and it works well. But I noticed recently in the FJR manual and on another forum some concerning experiences about the FJR specifying motorcycle oil that meets API SE, SF, SG or higher spec. Compound this with a neighbor who was running Rotella in a not-so-old gas pickup who had to replace cats and four O2 sensors due to fouling--the dealer blamed it on T6 (the truck failed on a cat efficiency code, among other things).
Thanks! Interesting we both have DR 650 and FJR. My DR loves T6. FJR shifts great, I was simply worried that old posts on this topic may not be current with experiences and recent T6 changes in formulations. According to Shell they are always improving their oils, but cannot provide details, other than industry certifications and performance specs.
An observation/comment here...
I agree with the comments on requirements and would not be concerned about using any major oil brand as long as it meets the JASO MA standards and the engine's viscosity requirements. Take you pick. This really applies to any engine - be it motorcycle, automotive, industrial, etc. using the right corresponding oil.
Now - My main issues/concern for a motorcycle would be potential problems with the clutch due to the additives from using and incorrect oil type. The rest of the engine is pretty much the same an any other as far as lubricants is concerned.
Now - All engines burn oil, some more than others - but it's a rather minimal amoun. As to oil (any oil) fouling O2 sensors and Cats; I would have to say that for any oil or additive to have any damaging effects on these components, you have to be burning and unusually high amount of oil to foul these components. And that is a whole other issue then.
IMO and experience - The amount of oil that an engine burns under normal specs is not going to be enough to damage those regardless of oil type.
I still use the right oil type, but I don't believe there's damage to be had from using another type of oil under normal engine wear.
I agree with the comments on requirements and would not be concerned about using any major oil brand as long as it meets the JASO MA standards and the engine's viscosity requirements. Take you pick. This really applies to any engine - be it motorcycle, automotive, industrial, etc. using the right corresponding oil.
Now - My main issues/concern for a motorcycle would be potential problems with the clutch due to the additives from using and incorrect oil type. The rest of the engine is pretty much the same an any other as far as lubricants is concerned.
Now - All engines burn oil, some more than others - but it's a rather minimal amoun. As to oil (any oil) fouling O2 sensors and Cats; I would have to say that for any oil or additive to have any damaging effects on these components, you have to be burning and unusually high amount of oil to foul these components. And that is a whole other issue then.
IMO and experience - The amount of oil that an engine burns under normal specs is not going to be enough to damage those regardless of oil type.
I still use the right oil type, but I don't believe there's damage to be had from using another type of oil under normal engine wear.
Diablo1
Well-known member
Does the bike need a cat to run properly or will it throw a code?
RossKean
Well-known member
I don't think it would throw a code - at least not earlier generations. People have de-catted their headers (or used Holeshots) without issue. If the cats were physically plugged with carbon or a combustion residue, that would obviously cause a problem. (Damaged cats might cause you to fail an emissions test if they are required in your jurisdiction, even if not blocked.)
O2 sensor, on the other hand, may prevent the bike from running properly and/or throw a code if it is damaged.
Haven't heard of either happening as a function of engine oil choice.
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