Funky Clacky noise from clutch?

[kaitsdad]

BTW....there are three means of adjusting the throttle blades. One is the most commonly recognized idle air bypass screws. The other, less recognized, is the adjustment in the throttle linkage between each throttle body. That is the one mentioned in the "alternate TBS procedure thread". The third is the individual screw on each throttle body that sets the throttle blade stop for each throttle body. That is the tiny screw with the locknut. You really do not want to change or adjust this one. It is simply the throttle stop for that throttle blade and is there to prevent the throttle blade from sticking when closed or "corking" as it is known. Even if you start to play with the throttle stop screw you'll find it has no effect on "sync" of the four throttle bodies....it just provides the stop for each throttle body.
You want to set the sync off idle (at 4000) with the adjustment in the linkage between the throttle bodies and then set the idle sync with the air screws.

If there is not enough adjustment in the idle air screws to sync at idle then something else is out of whack....especially if is suddenly changes as much as indicated.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to why the throttle body vacuum would change that much in one cylinder suddenly.... Even disconnecting an injector (turning off combustion in that cylinder) does not change the vacuum much at all. Since the vacuum level is determined by the pumping effeciency of the engine it really doesn't matter that much if the cylinder is firing or not. I pull the injector leads to put a load on the engine to set the 4000 RPM sync and see very little change in the vacuum level (using mercury tubes) between "running" cylinders and disconnected injector cylinders. The slight change doesn't affect the sync procedure since I am syncing two cylinders at a time that are running and using the other two dead cylinders for load but the four mercury tubes are still hooked up and side by side and there isn't much change in the dead and running cylinders.

Fortunately, I haven't touched any TB adjustments except for the idle air screws. Plugs and Injectors are next - once the Advil kicks in and my back stops screaming.

I am hearing a small 'click' or 'chuff' like a vacuum leak. Could a vacuum leak have this effect?

 

[jestal]

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[dcarver]

Jestal, you ROCK dude. I am berry berry glad you bought an FJR and post on this forum.

I am a technician, you are an engineer... and I fully know/recognize the difference...

 

[painman]

Not an expert by any means, but just a comment, I've heard of injectors getting clogged before so could one check for a clogged injector? Run some cleaner through the system? Loose or fouled spark plug? Just tryin to help here...PM. <><

 

[kaitsdad]

Possibly. Certainly could cause manifold vacuum to go low (more unthrottled) causing one cylinder to hit harder and cause the instability. Possibly a cracked throttle body boot...??? Use a spray bottle of water and squirt around the boots and clamps. If there is a vacuum leak you will hear the water being sucked in and the vacuum leak sound disappear for a moment. Some people do this test with carb spray or WD40 or other such things but water is much safer and totally incapable of stripping paint and works just as well. Maybe there is a clamp loose on the nuber 2 throttle body.

DING, DING, DING !!! WE HAVE A WINNAH !!!!!!!! :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

Wonky blows off some steam ......

Wonky Part 3

(EDIT 8:40 PM PST - Putfile has truncated the last 10 seconds - I'm attempting to fix it)

(EDIT 8:52 PM PST - I'm doing battle with the Putfile gremlins. Soon.....)

(EDIT 8:58 PM PST - Let's try this again.)

(EDIT 9:02 PM PST - They did it again !! Time to dig out my video editing software.)

(EDIT 9:43 PM PST - I give up. You get the idea.)

Before you watch this - (yes, it's video) please keep in mind a couple of things:

1. I am NOT Jdog productions. No cracks about my incredible stability nor my focusing powers.

2. That 'hissing' or 'sizzling' sound is not the water hitting a super hot intake - it's the sound of a vacuum leak SUCKING H2O.

3. I was in a hurry. The little battery level icon was BLINKING at me!! It went dead at 59 seconds. Which was enough.

4. I did NOT hydrolock #2. All valves are fine.

OK - now I've just got to figure out what's up - a loose clamp, cracked boot, or? At least now I have something I can fix.

It's been a long day. I'm on my 4th Advil. I may just chase it with a Jack Daniels on the rocks, and fix this thing tomorrow in the daylight.

Jestal, Thanks for the idea of the water. I had thought about doing that earlier with carb cleaner, but did not really want to risk emolliating my garage.

If it plays funky on Putfiles site, just download it to your machine.

 

[painman]

Good deal Hal. Glad your on the problem. But your suppose to use....uh, um....spray bottle of water...your going to drown poor Wonky. PM. <><

 

[Fairlaner]

Good deal Hal. Glad your on the problem. But your suppose to use....uh, um....spray bottle of water...your going to drown poor Wonky. PM. <><

heavy handed Hal, spray bottle works better dude I have one if you need one

Richard

 

[kaitsdad]

Good deal Hal. Glad your on the problem. But your suppose to use....uh, um....spray bottle of water...your going to drown poor Wonky. PM. <><

heavy handed Hal, spray bottle works better dude I have one if you need one

Richard

Geeeezzzzz......... ..

Please refer to item #3 in my post.

I almost used diet 7Up.

 

[jestal]

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[madmike2]

Wow is right! I've had broken clamps on "boots" that didn't leak that badly, BUT that's the first item to check. Great sleuthing, Hal. At least its not as serious as believed in the beginning.

 

[DonRed7]

I've used an (unlit) propane torch to find intake/vacuum leaks,..when you go near the source of the leak with the propane gas the idle speed will go up a little.

-Handy tool also for checking header temps is my Greenlee infrared thermometer,....great for finding dead/misfiring cylinders.

-Don

 

[madmike2]

I've used an (unlit) propane torch to find intake/vacuum leaks,..when you go near the source of the leak with the propane gas the idle speed will go up a little.

That may not be a good idea if you happen to find an ignition wire "leak". Things could turn...er, uhm, exciting. :dribble: The "water in a spray bottle" idea sounds better to me.

 

[Fairlaner]

I've used an (unlit) propane torch to find intake/vacuum leaks,..when you go near the source of the leak with the propane gas the idle speed will go up a little.-Handy tool also for checking header temps is my Greenlee infrared thermometer,....great for finding dead/misfiring cylinders.

-Don

They also work good when they are lit, esspecially for finding fuel leaks!!!!!!!!

Richard

 

[kaitsdad]

Ladies and Gentlemen,

This is evident proof that we can spend oodles of time and bandwidth troubleshooting a 75 cent part.

Seems the last time I installed the fuel rail, I may have pinched the #2 injector seat ring.

Whatchya Think?

Could this be the problem?

So - anyone out there happen to have a set of injector O-rings in their hip pocket?

Seems that Mike at University Motors will be receiving an email this afternoon........

First rule of troubleshooting -

Always suspect what was last done to the bike.

"I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK, I cut down great big trees...."

doh.......

 

[Barabus]

Nice find. Glad Wonky is ok.

 

[madmike2]

Seems the last time I installed the fuel rail, I may have pinched the #2 injector seat ring.
Whatchya Think?

Ahhhh, the old "Operator Error", hmmmmm?

They also work good when they are lit, esspecially for finding fuel leaks!!!!!!!!

:focus: :rofl:

 

[jestal]

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[dcarver]

Hey Hal, congrats!

No more WonkyBonkyitis! :yahoo:

 

[mike25]

Glad you got your clutch fixed.

 

[beeroux]

:yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo: :yahoo:

Good job Hal!

GZ