Fuzeblock questions

[RiderX]

+1 over heat shield!

I (and others) have used flexible convoluted tubing (that plastic stuff with the seam down one side) to give the wires some protection or at least some semi-loose heat shrink, although not required! All my wiring is going around the bolts on the T-Stiffener under the gas tank (I followed the edge of the heat shield to keep stuff out of the way). On maintenance where you have to remove the shield it isn't a problem. Just have to reset it when reinstalling so nothing gets too pinched. Technique only. Can do it anyway it makes sense. If you pick up a fuzeblock or some other power distribution system and want to run it under the seat, let me know when they arrive and I can snap some better pictures. Also, for the uninitiated, the fuzeblock wiring kit will give you what you need for basic wiring to the block and fuzeholder, etc.

Or just drive to southern maryland (just over the Potomac) as I like beer.

 

[karstenp]

Apologize for not getting back to you guys sooner. I have been away on business for the past week....

I purchase all my wire loom, braiding and heat shrink from Cable Ties and More (links below). They have both a US and a Canadian site.

Cable Ties and More (USA Link)

Cable Ties and More (Canadian Link)

I ran my wires under the heat shield, through automotive grade (i.e. high temp) wire loom and neatly along the side of the frame. There is enough room with the proper placement to perform maintenance including taking the valve cover off for valve checks. The wires/loom are feed through the opening in the frame below the steering head bearing. Note: Do not use the braided sleeving anywhere near hot engine parts unless you want to have a melted mess.

I use the double wall heat shrink tubing to prevent wire penetration and future short cicuits. The heat shrink tubing includes an adhesive. I solder all my joints and soldering any crimped joints for extra measure.

I use wire that meets spec SAE J1128. The insulation on some cheaper wire will separate at high temps. If you are not sure about your wire, stick it in the oven and test it on a cookie sheet with aluminum foil. Keep turning up the temps until you see the insulation start to shrivel up. The SAE J1128 is rated to 185F but the insulation will not start to fail until > 250F. I know that the cheaper wire will work, but I wanted to wire my bike to withstand the extremes.

My current wiring setup has been ridden over 50,000 miles including extended temps pushing 120F and temps below 32F over the past two summers and has performed flawlessly.

Below is a list of part #s that I used from Cable Ties and More.

1) 3/8" Heavy Wall, Heavy Duty Braided Sleeving, black, P/N HWS0.38 (This is the baiding you see under my seat)

2) 3/8" Nylon Split Wire Loom, P/N NWL921 (This is the loom that I ran the wire through around the engine area. After running the wires, I wrapped the loom in professional grade electrical tape. There is one area were the wire loom actually wraps along the far right edge of the engine valve cover. For that specific area, I wrapped the loom in flexible exhaust tape for extra protection. Make sure you allow enough slack where required to permit temporary relocation of wires for maintenance).

3) Dual Wall Heat Shrink Tubing, various sizes, P/Ns, HS374, 376, 378, 380.

Hope this helps. I may be able to find pictures of my wire routing in the engine area if anyone is interested.

 

[RiderX]

And the grounding pinwheel? Was that a special part or just all the grounds connected together. I thought it looked good.

 

[karstenp]

And the grounding pinwheel? Was that a special part or just all the grounds connected together. I thought it looked good.

Master Grounding Block from Farklemasters. Link below (look under electrical area)

FarkleMasters