Fuzeblock questions

[RiderX]

That's smart! Did I mention I like it a lot?

What is the grounding sprocket looking thing aft of the fuze locks doing? Is that just an attachment point to bring em all together?

Was also asking about if they're just velcroed to the black computer and if you used the bottom plastic piece on the FZ-1's and still had room (height)?

Thanks again, I just might want another one.

 

[phroenips]

If you're referring to the fuze ratings, he is just fine. If you go look at your fuze panel (or likely CB panel) in your house, you will find the sum of the fuze or CB values exceeds the panel rating, this is normal.

The actual current going through the FZ-1 is not rated to exceed 30A. You always fuze a step up from the current a device is expected to draw. (A device draws 2.4A so you might put a 5A fuze on it. 4.2A draw you might put a 7.5A. There are start up taxes and other things to consider, especially if a device has a motor (or ballast).

Remember you are fuzing to protect the wiring and the bike in case of some catastropic device failure or wire binding (short), etc., not the device itself.

Correct!

Something else to consider....each Fuzeblock is rated at 30A or approx. 400 Watts. Total electrical capacity for two Fuzeblocks would be ~ 800 Watts. However, the total available electrical capacity for the Gen II is only 590 Watts. The electrical wiring on my bike is not what I would consider "normal". In my wiring design, failure of a single relay, fuzeblock, fuze etc would not take out all my lighting, GPS capability etc. The mutiple Fuzeblocks, lots of wiring etc is not for required wattage capacity but rather for reliablity and redundancy that I deemed important for long distance rides/rally participation. I acknowledge that it is definitely "over the top" for normal use but has performed flawlessly in an Iron Butt Rally, Iron Butt 5000 and numerous 1-2 days rallies.

Good info on both posts, thanks. I understand the 30A total current, and I was mostly looking at the 15A and 20A fuses (I saw 20A as a spare, but not on any device...maybe the one that is being "blinded" by the flash)

 

[karstenp]

That's smart! Did I mention I like it a lot?

What is the grounding sprocket looking thing aft of the fuze locks doing? Is that just an attachment point to bring em all together?

Was also asking about if they're just velcroed to the black computer and if you used the bottom plastic piece on the FZ-1's and still had room (height)?

Thanks again, I just might want another one.

That is a grounding block behind the Fuzeblocks. The grounding block ensures that all grounds to all devices are good (as indicated....it "brings them all together". It also means running a few less wires, easy to trouble shoot or quickly add additional grounds.

The Fuzeblocks are velcroed (industrial strength) to the bottom of the bottom plastic piece supplied. Velcro permits quick removal of a Fuzeblock for replacement if needed (Note: I carried a spare Fuzeblock during the IBR) I actually store a small multimeter on top of the Fuzeblocks so there is plenty of room under the seat.

 

[RiderX]

So, in all the fuzeblock installs posted there was this wide opened tray under the driver's seat that was empty. I was like WTF? where is that cool Mitsubishi computer that is sitting there. Turns out in the 2006 AE, it is in that tray and in most models or potentially all non-AE it is underneath that tray. So I was curious if the fuzeblock would fit on top of the computer.

Here is a shot with plumbing to the seat area complete, pre-install:

The top device is the dimmer sold on ADVmonster for LED lighting that jacks them to full bright with horn or hi-beam input. Alex will be selling them soon I hear.

So I ended up velcro-ing both the dimmer module and the Fuzeblock FZ-1 on top of the bike computer with about 40% of those products over hanging over the computer toward the left side of the bike. Neither of those two devices will get hot, but I wonder aobut the computer. I still have most of it exposed although the wire mess laying on top of it. Be interested to see how hot it gets in extreme heat. Just wanted to post for AE guys there is just enough vertical clearance to put those devices on top of the Mits computer. In the pictures I've seen, non-AE guys have an empty tray so easy, peasy.

 

[CAJW]

Another possible install location to consider for those getting their new Fuzeblocks.

Relays can be installed under the seat as well permitting quick access and troubleshooting.

Would you happen to have a source(s) for that slick looking wire loom and grounding sprocket? I have a winter project in mind after seeing this.

 

[karstenp]

Another possible install location to consider for those getting their new Fuzeblocks.

Relays can be installed under the seat as well permitting quick access and troubleshooting.

Would you happen to have a source(s) for that slick looking wire loom and grounding sprocket? I have a winter project in mind after seeing this.

I can get that for you when I get back home this weekend to look up the supplier... I will post Sat or Sunday.

 

[CAJW]

Thanks much! No rush on this as I'm not going to delve into the bowels of my bike a few weeks before NAFO. It'll be a project for next winter or sooner if I really get motivated...... :uhuh:

 

[Patriot]

mine is under the black panel forward and on the right side...it sits between the cowl frame and the right side windshield mechanism...Gen I '04

 

[RiderX]

Would you happen to have a source(s) for that slick looking wire loom and grounding sprocket? I have a winter project in mind after seeing this.

+1 I'd love to get one of those as well. Can use sooner though!

 

[someguy]

man....

i'm learning a ton...

and i'm a complete electrical *****...

hand me a wrench, i'm gold...

thanks all for posting...

as i venture into the wild wild world of wireing and FJR, i may need one of you to adopt me for a day, or two...

i can bring beer...

 

[user 28803]

man....

i'm learning a ton...

and i'm a complete electrical *****...

hand me a wrench, i'm gold...

thanks all for posting...

as i venture into the wild wild world of wireing and FJR, i may need one of you to adopt me for a day, or two...

i can bring beer...

Dude, want a brother? I can bring beer too. Chips and salsa?

I need to wire my hyperlites now and soon will need to wire aux lights on the front as well as my garmin.. Maybe a radar detector too. I think I need a fuze block but I don't know.

 

[RPrice]

man....

i'm learning a ton...

and i'm a complete electrical *****...

hand me a wrench, i'm gold...

thanks all for posting...

as i venture into the wild wild world of wireing and FJR, i may need one of you to adopt me for a day, or two...

i can bring beer...

Dude, want a brother? I can bring beer too. Chips and salsa?

I need to wire my hyperlites now and soon will need to wire aux lights on the front as well as my garmin.. Maybe a radar detector too. I think I need a fuze block but I don't know.

You need one.

 

[worney]

I go by the "If you think you might need one then you probably do." Put one in. Its pretty easy really.

-worney

 

[user 28803]

I kinda figured I did.

I'm trying to figure this stuff out but I need a teacher or VERY detailed instructions with photos. I've never run wires on a bike and I'm not sure where to put them.

 

[RPrice]

I kinda figured I did.

I'm trying to figure this stuff out but I need a teacher or VERY detailed instructions with photos. I've never run wires on a bike and I'm not sure where to put them.

Like others have noted buy a 30 amp fuse holder at an auto parts store hook this to the +, run 10 gauge wire (for + and - ) from the battery under your gas tank and over the heat shield back to under the rear seat. That's your main power for your fuzeblock. Hook it up to the fuzeblock, then while you've got the tank elevated run the + and - wires for your "toys" (RD, GPS, etc.) and thread them back over the heat shield to the fuzeblock with the appropriate fuse. You select switched or unswitched by the fuse placement in the block.

Also, you may want "outlets" in other locations, which you can figure out. For example my audio cable emanates from under the seat just ahead of my left thigh. Easy to hook up to Amplirider, which sends audo to my ear buds. The outlet for my electric vests resides there too. When I don't need it I stow it under the seat.

When you put the tank down, and run the wires up to your electronic equipment on the handlebars move your bars from stop to stop to insure you have enough "slack". Use zip ties to keep your wires together as neatly as possible.

Anyway, it's really not too hard!! Good instructions are available on the Fuzeblock web site.

Plenty of other threads/advice on the forum.

Good Luck!

 

[worney]

Try to mak all your + red and the - black. Leave extra (more than you would think) as you run wires. (Its a pain to splice). Mark the wires at both ends to make it easier to troubleshoot. Lots more but its all covered in the threads. Most important is to take your time and plan first.

- worney

 

[user 28803]

Like others have noted buy a 30 amp fuse holder at an auto parts store hook this to the +, run 10 gauge wire (for + and - ) from the battery under your gas tank and over the heat shield back to under the rear seat. That's your main power for your fuzeblock. Hook it up to the fuzeblock, then while you've got the tank elevated run the + and - wires for your "toys" (RD, GPS, etc.) and thread them back over the heat shield to the fuzeblock with the appropriate fuse. You select switched or unswitched by the fuse placement in the block.

Also, you may want "outlets" in other locations, which you can figure out. For example my audio cable emanates from under the seat just ahead of my left thigh. Easy to hook up to Amplirider, which sends audo to my ear buds. The outlet for my electric vests resides there too. When I don't need it I stow it under the seat.

When you put the tank down, and run the wires up to your electronic equipment on the handlebars move your bars from stop to stop to insure you have enough "slack". Use zip ties to keep your wires together as neatly as possible.

Anyway, it's really not too hard!! Good instructions are available on the Fuzeblock web site.

Plenty of other threads/advice on the forum.

Good Luck!

Thank you, this helps a lot. Already more than I knew, lol.

I really appreciate it.

 

[user 28803]

Try to mak all your + red and the - black. Leave extra (more than you would think) as you run wires. (Its a pain to splice). Mark the wires at both ends to make it easier to troubleshoot. Lots more but its all covered in the threads. Most important is to take your time and plan first.

- worney

Great idea, thanks!

I've been looking through the threads, finding bits here and there. I even found a couple of old ones with a lot of photos - but all the photos were gone. Too old.

I started another thread asking (mostly) about wiring for lights. Maybe I'll get some help there.

Thanks, fellas. I really appreciate your patience and advice.

 

[SkooterG]

I kinda figured I did.

I'm trying to figure this stuff out but I need a teacher or VERY detailed instructions with photos. I've never run wires on a bike and I'm not sure where to put them.

from the battery under your gas tank and over the heat shield back to under the rear seat. .......... and thread them back over the heat shield to the fuzeblock

Over the heat shield?!?! Wouldn't that make any future maintenance a major PITA?

And this stuff IS hard for those that have never done it before.

 

[RPrice]

I kinda figured I did.

I'm trying to figure this stuff out but I need a teacher or VERY detailed instructions with photos. I've never run wires on a bike and I'm not sure where to put them.

from the battery under your gas tank and over the heat shield back to under the rear seat. .......... and thread them back over the heat shield to the fuzeblock

Over the heat shield?!?! Wouldn't that make any future maintenance a major PITA?

And this stuff IS hard for those that have never done it before.

Well, I do all my own maintenance including TBS, spark plug changes, valve adjusts, etc.. I just move the wires over the heat shield (which are zip tied together) over to the side, (there's some slack), and there's no issues.

Also, I've been running it this way for over 2 years, virtually year round, with no issues.

But, I certainly defer to you and your experience with Gen II's............................