Garage door remote taking up too much space

[PhilJet09]

I had the remote for the garage stuck to the under side of the glove box lid, but it took up just a little too much space and I couldn't get my wallet in there and close the lid. I went to Radio Shack and got a bag of 4 normally open, momentarily closed push button switches for about $3.50. I used some Scotch Dual Lock to mount the modded remote up under the fairing aft of the glove box. Total time maybe 45 minutes.

 

[noland]

Looks great! I was trying to address the same issue. Sears has "minature" remotes that would work, but the glovebox is pretty cramped. Your idea looks like a winner. I'll have to look into this. Thanks!

 

[Fred W]

Nice idea.

Changing batteries in the remote may be a chore unless you locate it somewhere out in the relative open. Can't tell from your pics but yours seems to be under the A panel? Not a bigee. I find my remote's batteries last a couple of years.

Also, having the button inside the glove box hides it and makes it more weatherproof (nice), but it also means that you need to open the glove box to open the garage door (duh!). On 1st gens (at least) that means having to find neutral to open the GD. If the button was remoted to somewhere more out in the open it would be easier to open the door as you roll up the drive.

Finally, does your speed pass work OK in that location? Or is it just stored there when not in use?

I've had to locate mine up inside the tank bag, under the map pocket, in an orientation like it was on a windshield.

 

[PhilJet09]

Fred,

Yea, I thought about the battery thing, but I only need to change them every 2 1/2 years so it isn't a big deal. The remote is mounted to the underside of the panel aft of the one that the grip heater control mounts to, which means that the grip heater panel has to be removed to get to it. I can get that panel out in less than a minute now, so again no big deal.

On my bike, you don't have to be in neutral to open the glove box, so that isn't an issue. The entire remote used to be mounted to the underside of that lid, so I'm used to opening it to open the garage door anyway.

If you look closely at my EZ pass you'll see some Velcro on it. The mate to that Velcro is on top of my clutch reservoir. Since I don't need to be in neutral to open my glove box, it stores in there and I only mount it when I need it.

 

[Fred W]

Gotcha. Yeah I knew 2nd gen glove boxes will open in gear. They took that nanny out in the 1st to 2nd gen redesign. I considered re-wiring my glove box solenoid to allow it, but that would result in the solenoid being powered at all times drawing a few precious watts from the alternator. The other option was to remove the solenoid and have the GB latch be just manual and not locking, but I like the idea that someone wanting to steal my stuff has to at least force the box open (which isn't hard if you know you can do it).

My last observation and comment about this is that opening and closing the glove box while underway is not something that I am entirely comfortable doing. Even though I've logged a decent amount of time on this bike, it flips up open right underneath the handlebar and reaching into it seems like an accident waiting to happen.

Others may be more or less comfortable in doing that. I'd just prefer a weatherproof switch right out in the open.

YMMV, etc, etc.

 

[PhilJet09]

I thought about that, but I didn't want my garage opener accessible if the bike was just sitting in my driveway. I know it's a small chance that anyone would even know what it does, but still some people just can't keep themselves from pushing buttons. Also, I tend to do these types of mods on a whim and in order to get a nice weather-proof switch would have meant ordering one and I may have lost interest or more likely, ran out of spare time.

Most of the time I put the bike in neutral rolling up the driveway and open the lid and push the button. Could I crash doing this? Sure, but I try to be sensible about it. If there's anything in the way or not enough time I'll simply come to a stop, no biggie. As for the EZ Pass, it's the same deal. I usually know in advance if I'm going to be on the toll road, so I mount it before I get going and re-stow it when I get to my destination.

 

[Crash Cash]

I got a flash2pass which connects directly to the headlight connector, and doesn't need batteries. You double-tap your highbeams and it opens your garage door. I put one on my FJR and my SV, and it works on my ancient Craftsman opener. A lot simpler than this sort of goofing around.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

I got a flash2pass which connects directly to the headlight connector, and doesn't need batteries. You double-tap your highbeams and it opens your garage door. I put one on my FJR and my SV, and it works on my ancient Craftsman opener. A lot simpler than this sort of goofing around.

That's a cool little unit!

https://www.f2ptechnologies.com/category/70/

 

[Blind Squirrel]

I don't have to be in neutral to open my glove box on my gen 1; I removed the solenoid! I don't keep anything in the glove box that is worth much. It was easy to just pull the top open with the "lock" in place. I figured if someone wants to get into the glove box it is better to let them just open it and not risk breaking it.

 

[Fred W]

I thought about that, but I didn't want my garage opener accessible if the bike was just sitting in my driveway. I know it's a small chance that anyone would even know what it does, but still some people just can't keep themselves from pushing buttons. Also, I tend to do these types of mods on a whim and in order to get a nice weather-proof switch would have meant ordering one and I may have lost interest or more likely, ran out of spare time.
Most of the time I put the bike in neutral rolling up the driveway and open the lid and push the button. Could I crash doing this? Sure, but I try to be sensible about it. If there's anything in the way or not enough time I'll simply come to a stop, no biggie. As for the EZ Pass, it's the same deal. I usually know in advance if I'm going to be on the toll road, so I mount it before I get going and re-stow it when I get to my destination.

I hope that you do not feel that I have been hypercritical of your project. My observations and notes are meant for those who may come along afterward and want to do the same thing, but may have the same concerns. There is always more than one way to skin a cat.

As I said at the outset, I think your farkle is a great idea. And I especially like your sharing your handiwork with the forum.

Very nice work, all around! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

 

[PhilJet09]

Fred, not at all. I like the discussion. I didn't mean to sound defensive in my replies, just getting my thoughts across.

Others called it "goofy" and suggested that I spend $75 on a mass produced product, but I accomplished what I wanted for less than 4 bucks, so I can use the other $71 on more important farkles. If it doesn't hold up well to vibration, heat, moisture etc. oh well, it's not tied into the bike at all, so it won't hurt anything. I'll just have to get off my lazy butt and use the keypad to open the garage.

 

[Fred W]

Others called it "goofy" and suggested that I spend $75 on a mass produced product, but I accomplished what I wanted for less than 4 bucks, so I can use the other $71 on more important farkles.

[SIZE=14pt]Now, that's what I'm talking about!![/SIZE] :thumbsupsmileyanim:

 

[sergeantnic]

I went a little different route.

-1 Genie Garage Door Opener Remote Control $24.00 (already had)

-1 12volt SPST relay ($7 at radio shack)

-1 mini momentary normally open switch ($3 at radio shack)

I took a 12 volt switch source (running light circuit) and used that as the power for the coil on the relay. Then I took the momentary switch and mounted it in the left side control in front where a pass to flash switch would normally be on other bikes)

From that switch I took the wire and ran it to the "common" terminal on the relay and then from the open terminal on the relay I ran a wire to the garage door opener and soldered it onto the board.

If you push the switch with the bike off nothing happens because the relay isn't powered and therefore isn't closing the circuit. Bike has to be on.

Garage door opener and relay are mounted under the seat. Works great and I just replaced the battery last night after about 8 months of use.

 

[PhilJet09]

I went a little different route.
-1 Genie Garage Door Opener Remote Control $24.00 (already had)

-1 12volt SPST relay ($7 at radio shack)

-1 mini momentary normally open switch ($3 at radio shack)

I took a 12 volt switch source (running light circuit) and used that as the power for the coil on the relay. Then I took the momentary switch and mounted it in the left side control in front where a pass to flash switch would normally be on other bikes)

From that switch I took the wire and ran it to the "common" terminal on the relay and then from the open terminal on the relay I ran a wire to the garage door opener and soldered it onto the board.

If you push the switch with the bike off nothing happens because the relay isn't powered and therefore isn't closing the circuit. Bike has to be on.

Garage door opener and relay are mounted under the seat. Works great and I just replaced the battery last night after about 8 months of use.

I like that! Nice work.

 

[jameswilson]

Good ideas, but for the really cheap people out there. . . I put the opener in the outer front pocket of the jacket, simply press the jacket in the right spot and the door opens. Added advantage is I use the same opener for the car in the winter.

 

[bikerkash]

Mini remotes are available for most remotes and are less than a third the size of a large remote and fit nicely under the glove box lid without taking up much room. Just another idea.

 

[MCML]

Good installation! Personally, I use a Skylink brand mini remote and it resides in a small pocket on top of my tank bag. Never had any issues due to heat, light, exposure, etc. although they are all, theoretically potential causes of problems.

 

[Crash Cash]

Others called it "goofy" and suggested that I spend $75 on a mass produced product, but I accomplished what I wanted for less than 4 bucks, so I can use the other $71 on more important farkles.

[SIZE=14pt]Now, that's what I'm talking about!![/SIZE] :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Hey, I took the bluetooth door off my Nolan N103, drilled it and the remote for 4-40 model airplane bolts, and used model car shock-absorber washers as spacers to hold it to the side of my helmet.

All for ZERO bucks, because all that was in my junk box!

The original intent was to remove the circuit board and put it inside the bluetooth compartment and maybe solder on a switch, but it turned out to be just the tiniest bit too big, and I couldn't shave it down because the traces went all the way to the edges. I then found out the helmet no longer fit in the sidebag, so that's when I gave up and went with the Flash2Pass because then I no longer have to worry about coin batteries.

And before I did the attach-to-helmet stunt, I tried gluing a magnet to the remote and sticking it to the fuel tanks, but none of the glues/epoxies/superglues would keep the magnet stuck on. It would eventually pop off after a couple days. I tried drilling a hole in the magnets, but they would shatter, no matter how careful I tried to be.

Originally I had a REALLY TINY less-than-quarter-size one-button remote, but the f*ckers at Genie quit making it.

I don't have a glovebox on the SV nor do I usually carry a tank bag, so those options were out. And it was annoying when I left the remote on the other bike.

 

[Fred W]

I salute you for the cheapness frugality!! :thumbsup:

This might work for you guys that don't want to carry a remote?