Gen II Clutch Handle Wear Issue: Poor Clutch Operation

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FJR-Pilot

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I have recently noticed that my clutch was engaging too soon from the hand grip and I thought maybe at 60,000 miles my clutch was finally wearing out. So I did the clutch slave cylinder line bleed procedure - no change. Tried all 5 positions on the little clutch handle wheel-deal - no change. Then I took the clutch handle assy apart and found the lever pivot hole had major excessive wear and was elongated into an oval. The little brass piston bushing was really quite badly deformed and the clutch push rod had gone through it and was half way through the clutch handle itself lol.

Anyway - ordered a new handle, bushing, lever nut and bolt and installed them today and it completely resolved the issue.

Here's a photo of the worn assy:

FJR1300_clutch_handle_worn_out_photo.jpg


Edit 03-23-15 - add part numbers.

OEM Yamaha Parts I ordered to complete the repair:

  • Lever, Clutch - p/n 5EA-83912-00-00
  • Bolt, Lever - p/n 3FV-2589F-00-00
  • Nut, With Washer - p/n 95707-06500-00
  • Bushing - p/n 3GM-26455-00-00

 
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That little brass bushing needs to be taken out at least once per year, cleaned and lubed with a good grease. Procedure takes all of 5 minutes. I had a previous Yamaha bike (Venture) with the identical problem and I had to replace the bushing at around 50,000 miles (before I figured out what was happening). I didn't have a problem with the engagement point but the clutch pull felt notchy.

I have almost 130,000 miles on the current FJR and the original bushing still looks like new due to the appropriate level of maintenance.

 
I went through this a bit over a year ago. On mine, it DID go through the handle!!!

DSC_2124.jpg


That bushing is a sacrificial wear part. Softer metal than everything around it. I never had any issues until it punched through, and then the clutch wouldn't disengage completely, couldn't stop while in gear.

 
I think that periodic cleaning and lubrication of these parts is in the owner's manual somewhere... The cheap aftermarket levers I bought from the2wheels do not have the main pivot bushing so it is soft aluminum against the pivot screw so I will have to be especially mindful of this. Of course the brass bushing that the clutch rod fits in is just swapped over.

 
The FSM indicates silicone grease for the clutch lever pivot, but moly paste is also good for this, and the other non-bearing pivot applications.

I clean and lube the clutch pivot, along with the shifter and rear brake pivot points, annually.

 
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A little bit of cleaning and lube goes a long way. I haven't seen any wear with annual maintenance!

@Redfish, I haven't had any noticeable wear on my knock-off levers in approximately 80K.

--G

 
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I think that periodic cleaning and lubrication of these parts is in the owner's manual somewhere...
"RTFM" ... LOL. Yes I need to do a bit more of that!

Thanks for the tips on annual cleaning & lubing everyone.

I edited my original post to include part numbers ;-)

 
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