GEN II headlight access

[gazelle]

I've found on the Gen2 it's fairly simple. Having long straight and curved hemostats helps immensely with the rubber boot and spring latch. I use these a lot more than I ever expected I would.

https://www.harborfreight.com/10-1-2-half-inch-jumbo-curved-clamp-65711.html and https://www.harborfreight.com/12-inch-locking-clamp-94952.html

Yes, hemostats are invaluable in tight places....can turn a 2 hour job into 15 minutes. A mirror (sometimes held my a helper) can also be a great help ! I had a K2 750 Honda (83K miles) and a mechanic friend told me that with a hemostat he could get paid for 2 hrs work and replace a throttle cable in 15 minutes. So I bought one and did it myself....83K miles and was never in the shop.....had to replace rear wheel because drum brake inside diameter had worn beyond adjustment even with new brake shoes....

 

[rbentnail]

I don't get the earlier post about "Bulbs can be changed from the top without removing anything". On my Gen2 '07 I remove the 4 dash pieces- 2 horizontal and 2 vertical, one one each side. This is clearly described in the '07 owners manual. When I remove the vertical ones, I do NOT remove the headlight adjusting knobs and release nut to take the rest of the adjuster cable assembly out of the panel. When you do this for the first time, you'll see it's a plastic bushing-like thing that gets screwed onto the panel and when you reassemble this it has to be exactly lined up or it'll break. Please DAMHIK. Instead I loosen and flex the panel a little and unscrew the cable from the back, leaving the bushing-like thing firmly in place. With these 4 panels off headlight bulbs are fairly easy to access.

Extra maintenance tip- while there, check the 2 ground spiders there. One on each side. Use a 90 deg. pick to remove the cover and pull the spider out to inspect it. I always added a healthy amount of "electrically conductive corrosion inhibiting compound" like NOALOX. You need a conductor. Dielectric grease is not a conductor.

Pictures show position of ground spiders. You can see there about unscrewing the headlight cable from the rear.

If you don't have an owners manual, one can be downloaded for free here -> https://library.ymcapps.net/library/om/app/index.html?baseCode=6150&langId=02

 

[rbentnail]

Check out posts # 2 and 3 of this thread for other helpful maintenance and information -> https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/2007-the-new-build.153710/

 

[Archer]

If you don't have an owners manual, one can be downloaded for

I ran that hot-link right up through its' disclaimer and it doesn't look legit, do previous rules of manuals still apply to this new-owner platform? I'm sincerely just asking? Thanks

 

[RossKean]

I ran that hot-link right up through its' disclaimer and it doesn't look legit, do previous rules of manuals still apply to this new-owner platform? I'm sincerely just asking? Thanks

Owner's manual can be downloaded directly from Yamaha. Not a copyright issue.
The link is legit and you can get to it from "My Yamaha" on
https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/motorcycle

 

[rbentnail]

Yep, link is legit, use it. I like that the files are pdf. I have my owners manuals on 2 laptops, my phone and my tablet. Typially I use it twice per year- to reset the clock.

 

[PhatAir4Me]

I did not read all the posts to see if this is covered but the phillips screw on the headlight adjuster knobs is not a standard #1 or #2 phillips it is a Japanese screw head and given the access allows about a 1/4 turn and then you have to reset your driver which I found to be a PIA.
I took this screw to ACE hardware and replaced it with an allen head that was MUCH easier to deal with!

 

[mcatrophy]

I did not read all the posts to see if this is covered but the phillips screw on the headlight adjuster knobs is not a standard #1 or #2 phillips it is a Japanese screw head and given the access allows about a 1/4 turn and then you have to reset your driver which I found to be a PIA.
I took this screw to ACE hardware and replaced it with an allen head that was MUCH easier to deal with!

Or use the JIS screwdriver provided in the bike's toolkit.

 

[Oldjeep]

I don't get the earlier post about "Bulbs can be changed from the top without removing anything". On my Gen2 '07 I remove the 4 dash pieces- 2 horizontal and 2 vertical, one one each side. This is clearly described in the '07 owners manual. When I remove the vertical ones, I do NOT remove the headlight adjusting knobs and release nut to take the rest of the adjuster cable assembly out of the panel. When you do this for the first time, you'll see it's a plastic bushing-like thing that gets screwed onto the panel and when you reassemble this it has to be exactly lined up or it'll break. Please DAMHIK. Instead I loosen and flex the panel a little and unscrew the cable from the back, leaving the bushing-like thing firmly in place. With these 4 panels off headlight bulbs are fairly easy to access.

Extra maintenance tip- while there, check the 2 ground spiders there. One on each side. Use a 90 deg. pick to remove the cover and pull the spider out to inspect it. I always added a healthy amount of "electrically conductive corrosion inhibiting compound" like NOALOX. You need a conductor. Dielectric grease is not a conductor.

Pictures show position of ground spiders. You can see there about unscrewing the headlight cable from the rear.

If you don't have an owners manual, one can be downloaded for free here -> https://library.ymcapps.net/library/om/app/index.html?baseCode=6150&langId=02View attachment 1044View attachment 1045

On my Gen 2 I turned the bars one direction - reached in and changed one side then turned them the opposite direction and changed the other side. Can't see why you would need to remove the panels and I wear XL gloves.

 

[RiderJoe]

On my Gen 2 I turned the bars one direction - reached in and changed one side then turned them the opposite direction and changed the other side. Can't see why you would need to remove the panels and I wear XL gloves.

Yes, same here - with only a small amount of skin removal in the process. Next time I will wear some 9 mil nitrile gloves to change bulbs, but I hope that I won’t have to do that for a while. I installed fanless LEDs, so I am hoping for a long service life.

 

[gazelle]

I "assume" you are accessing from the top rather than from the bottom ?

 

[2GENAE]

I removed the side panels as I used fans on my 2008 AE . Needed the extra room to tie wrap the harness for the fans. I read the LED headlights without the fans.will fail sooner from heat.. YMMV It's been two years 10,000 miles LED still working.

 

[RiderJoe]

I "assume" you are accessing from the top rather than from the bottom ?

Yes, from the top.

 

[SSHANK42]

On a GEN II ? I've not tried it yet for fear of getting plugs off but unable to get them back on and lack of time to remove panels.

Yes

 

[SSHANK42]

On my Gen 2 I turned the bars one direction - reached in and changed one side then turned them the opposite direction and changed the other side. Can't see why you would need to remove the panels and I wear XL gloves.

Exactly how I do it