GEN II Plastic and Cowling Removal

[70bsalightning]

Read the posts on right side cowling removal/installation for 2007 FJR.

Wish to confirm that I MUST remove the front cowling (kaitsdad's post: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=116788) to access the two inside bolts at the lower front side of the right cowling (the two brackets in the pic of a new right cowling panel). No other way?

 

[bluesdog]

Read the posts on right side cowling removal/installation for 2007 FJR.
Wish to confirm that I MUST remove the front cowling (kaitsdad's post: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=116788) to access the two inside bolts at the lower front side of the right cowling (the two brackets in the pic of a new right cowling panel). No other way?

Yes. The entire front/upper cowling must be removed in order to separate it's component parts.

 

[DennisJ]

Probably the post I refer to most often when working on the FJR. Thanks again to Kaitsdad for this.

 

[fabadu]

Thank you for this detailed description. I performed it on my 2008 FJR A with success. It's kind of a pain in the ass but this makes it a lot easier. I did notice just a difference on my bike. On this thread there are 3 screws that join the two side panel at the very bottom of the fairing. One of the 3 is not supposed to be removed. On my bike I had only one screw which I had to remove.

 

[Niehart]

fabadu, Calif bikes have a charcoal canister, part of that states emission crap, that sits down there.

 

[BobCo]

Thanks kaitsdad for the step by step. There are some differences with a 2008. Nothing of any real consequence. Even with all of the directions it was still a pain. I'm wondering how some of the screws are going to get started - should be interesting.

 

[bluesdog]

Thanks kaitsdad for the step by step. There are some differences with a 2008. Nothing of any real consequence. Even with all of the directions it was still a pain. I'm wondering how some of the screws are going to get started - should be interesting.

It can be a wee PITA getting some panels lined up correctly. I find connecting the two lower sections where they join at the headers most annoying, where the lower curved piece hooks up to left panel with a small tab that has to be just right. Stupid design.

If you find a screw that does not seem to want to hook up with the nut, it means you have failed to line things up properly. Remember there are a few panels, especially those with overlapping joins, where they almost snap together before the screw will get started easily. With some patience it can be accomplished.

Don't overtighten, and don't use threadlocker.

 

[BobCo]

BD, thanks for the advice. With the weather we're having I better be patient, because I wouldn't get out of our drive. But I did label baggies for everything, so far just lost one pin for a plastic rivet, and I think it will be found.

 

[Brodie]

One quick assembly tip:

Once the 4 big screws are in place and snug that hold up the headlight nacelle into the sub frame, and assembly has started on the rest of the body work...

Don't tighten any of the screws until all the cowling body work and screws are in place. Leave them at least 1/4 turn loose This will allow for slight alignment adjustments to the assembly.

Brodie

 

[FJR Flyer]

Man, I wish the pics were still available.

 

[mcatrophy]

Man, I wish the pics were still available.

I have some pictures here that may help.

 

[FJR Flyer]

Man, I wish the pics were still available.

I have some pictures here that may help.

Thanks!

 

[rbentnail]

PM sent

 

[RossKean]

Man, I wish the pics were still available.

I can see all of the pictures. Not sure why you can't...

 

[rbentnail]

Man, I wish the pics were still available.

I can see all of the pictures. Not sure why you can't...

Even with the PhotoBucket cheat it's still kind of hit and miss for some. The PM I sent was for the '06 plastics removal for a recall way back when.

 

[RossKean]

Original pictures are Smugmug, not Photobucket. This is on my work computer which is running Internet Explorer, not Chrome or Firefox anyway.

 

[Bill G]

Chalk up another appreciative visitor to Kaitsdad’s post. Although I’d pretty much removed all the panels, middle/side and lower panels before I found the post, it helped greatly in my removing the cowling and headlight assembly as a single piece. Will consult the step-by-step in reverse for reassembly.

My windshield had stopped operating and for the past year was stuck in the up position. Came across lots of posts on the other owners forum citing problems with the switch, the drive/motor, ground “spiders.” It was none of the above.

The rubber windshield seal apparently had torn and jammed the cable mechanism somehow. Once I removed the cowling and the seal fell away, the switch raised and lowered the windshield arms just fine, with the motor running smoothly.

Now, I need to pick up a new or used replacement seal in good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations?

 

[rbentnail]

Chalk up another appreciative visitor to Kaitsdad’s post. Although I’d pretty much removed all the panels, middle/side and lower panels before I found the post, it helped greatly in my removing the cowling and headlight assembly as a single piece. Will consult the step-by-step in reverse for reassembly.

My windshield had stopped operating and for the past year was stuck in the up position. Came across lots of posts on the other owners forum citing problems with the switch, the drive/motor, ground “spiders.” It was none of the above.

The rubber windshield seal apparently had torn and jammed the cable mechanism somehow. Once I removed the cowling and the seal fell away, the switch raised and lowered the windshield arms just fine, with the motor running smoothly.

Now, I need to pick up a new or used replacement seal in good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations?

When mine did the same I just removed it and left it out. It was fine.

 

[RossKean]

Now, I need to pick up a new or used replacement seal in good shape. Any suggestions/recommendations?

On my '07, I was able to use the old seal. Cleaned and stuck back on with 3M double sided trim adhesive tape. Some people don't bother replacing it if it gets torn.

 

[Bill G]

So, if it’s OK not to replace the seal, what purpose does it serve in the first place? I’m about to clean the area housing the cable mechanism. There appears to be some accumulated grime in and around that area.

 

[RossKean]

So, if it’s OK not to replace the seal, what purpose does it serve in the first place? I’m about to clean the area housing the cable mechanism. There appears to be some accumulated grime in and around that area.

The seal reduces the number of bugs and road splooge that gets in. Keeps some of the rain out as well but it is a long way from watertight. In the early Gen II, the seal is actually one piece of flexible PVC - not rubber. (I think it is different for my 2011 but I haven't had the nose off that to have a good look.)
I cleaned mine (the 2007) up with isopropyl alcohol and did the same for the surfaces where it is attached. The trim tape worked well and the seal didn't come loose again for the next 150,000 miles.