Gen III Mirror & Broken Sub-Frame

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Iris

formerly "herfjr"
Joined
Sep 7, 2005
Messages
877
Reaction score
123
Location
Albany, NY
Okay, so I confessed (on another topic) that I tried to run Jim over with my bike and failed.

My bike fell over on the right side and the mirror bent inward, was scratched up, and then seemed a little bit loose. I am ordering a new mirror, but there's more to it than that.

Fred W told me to beware that there may be some damage to the sub-frame (hearing that the sub-frame cracks pretty easily from a drop and pressure to the mirror).

After prying the black dash panel away from the red panel (tricky job in itself), I was able to see that the sub-frame was indeed cracked. Damned that Fred W! (me joking)

I don't know how else to fix this other than replacing this whole sub-frame. I don't want to glue it (as I have read elsewhere on this forum), and trying to weld it, I would still have to take it out of it's home.

I will do the work myself (well, Jim is going to help me of course ;-))

Replacing this sub-frame is going to be a pain in the ass because there is so much attached to it. Uhg......

I have edited this post to show what I did to mend the crack. I did end up buying the mirror sub-frame (called a "stay"). I felt that if I could mend it this way first, and if this all worked well, then I would have the "stay" as a back-up in the unfortunate event that I drop the bike again in the future.

Here are some photos....(first of the crack and then of the mend):

IMG_0898_zps7471e986.jpg


IMG_0900_zpsf9a0dc0c.jpg


IMG_0901_zps0ebe7b57.jpg


IMG_0899_zps9538215c.jpg


I first used JB Weld on the crack itself. I let that bond for several days.

Secondly I used the Epoxy Putty (I've always wanted to try this stuff - so here was my chance). I let that bond for a coule more days.

The last thing I did was use the FiberFix wrap. https://www.fiberfix.com/

I wasn't able to apply as much FiberFix as I would have wanted to so that's why I used all the other materials first (before applying the FiberFix).

Everything seems very, very stable.

I did all this while keeping the sub-frame in-tack with the bike. I only had to remove the plastic that was required to replace the mirror.

Below is a photo of the Epoxy Putty that was smooshed over the already JB Welded broken seam.

IMG_0918_zps7553bd28.jpg


IMG_0921_zps57309838.jpg


IMG_0922_zps37993398.jpg
IMG_0913_zps76c16d0e.jpg
IMG_0916_zps2ede8516.jpg


 
Last edited by a moderator:
Last edited by a moderator:
I hate to ask but could something like JBWeld fix this? It could be done without removing anything more than you already have and should be at least as strong as the metal it is holding.

 
Darn, that sucks. It does point out that there needs to be some break-away mechanism for the mirrors that works as a mechanical 'fuse' to protect the sub-frame. It could be a notch that causes a break at a particular area or perhaps hardware like nylon screws that shear off first. I'm sure Fred W is on it with his mirror project.

In the mean time, order a new sub-frame and try to JB Weld the frame through the current access opening. If the JB works, great, just finish out the riding season. If it doesn't, the replacement part is in the mail. FWIW, small edge cracks are hard to fix with epoxy, there just isn't enough surface area for a strong joint.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well Garauld, you designed a nice sub-frame stiffy for the back end of our bikes. Think you could come up with one for the other end?
tonguesmiley.gif


Half joking though. I suppose if that's the weak spot and you could strengthen it then something else would take the brunt of an impact. Might be making the problem worse.

 
Wow, maybe I should check mine. I dropped mine when two cars wanted to play parking lot by bingo with me. My mirror doesn't seem loose at all but it wouldn't hurt to check.

 
I too would order a new part just for piece of mind. Were there frame sliders of any sort on the bike? This does not seem to common an event with dropped fjrs.

 
Too bad when a easy drop causes damage like that.

From the pics, looks like the GEN III subframe has been changed to a casting verses a weldment on the previous GENs? Less bendage and more breakage if that's the case,

--G

 
Dang it, Iris! Sorry about the damage to your new baby. I'd replace it and send the broken piece to Garauld for repair. Keep the repaired unit in case another biff occurs or have on hand for the next forum pal that may need it. Start a broken subframe pay it forward
smile.png
.

 
I did the same thing. Canyon Cages prevented the problem the first time but the second time I was situated in such a manner that when she dropped the canyon cage acted as a fulcrum and the fall got the mirror.

CDNArctic was kind enough to email me some photos of his repair which he says has worked and continues to work. He used aluminium strap and pop rivets.

My bike is on the lift with plastic removed while I'm out of town. When I get home I'm either going to try this repair or call my insurance company. My local dealer has given me a $1,500 estimate for replacement of the mirror, panel, subframe, clutch lever and Labor.

I may do it myself, make cdnarctic repair or have dealer do it.

https://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/bigjohnsd1/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-07-19Mirror3_zpse09eefad.jpg

https://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff469/bigjohnsd1/Mobile%20Uploads/2013-07-19Mirror1_zps8c722e17.jpg

 
Well that little wing of the subframe appears to only hold the mirror in place and tight. if there's no other structural purpose for it is there really a need to fix or repalce it? Does the mirror shake with it broken? And if you drop it again, maybe the little give with it broken will save the mirror from snapping off? The fairing seems to have other parts to hold it on firm.

 
I can guarantee this is going to be a recurring issue. That's just a cheap ass casting in my opinion not even designed very well. It looks like the gusset could have been carried down further but wasn't. Time will tell. If Gary fixes it he may be able to beef it up some. If you buy the replacement you may be doing this job again. Up to you I guess.

Edit: I noticed a couple of round bosses in the casting. A couple of tapped holes and a steel brace across would help quite a bit. Just a suggestion.

Good luck Gen III owners,

Dave

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Some seriously strong epoxy PLUS one or two small steel braces attached with appropriately sized machine screws/bolts fitted into tapped holes, as 08fjr4me notes. That should keep it together at least for the remainder of the riding season. Once you take it off the road, you now have something to keep you occupied for a while as you replace with a whole new subframe.

Shame yamaha chose to go with a casting on the gen IIIs rather than the earlier gens' mild steel bits

 
As I have already told Iris by PM, this is one of those times when I wish I had not been right.

For the price of that subframe assembly, I think I would be inclined to replace versus trying to glue or JB Weld it back togethr. Especially on a first year bike. Maybe after it is out of warranty by a few years I'd be looking for the moire frugal alternative.

But then, I'd be thinking seriously about ditching those 2nd/3rd gen mirrors that do not provide any sort of protection, and going with either the FZ1 mirrors or the 1st Gen mirrors (for those without wide bodies and elbows) as those will gracefully fold to protect the undercarriage in the event of a repeat dropping performance.

Does anyon know for certain that this 3rd gen subframe is any different than a 2nd gen version? I do not recall so much churn about subframes on the 2nd gens and they had the same crappy mirror design.

 
Totally different FredW.

I adjusted the spring tension on the mirrors when I first pick up the bike.

Allows them to fold back if the bike tips over, don't really want to test it.

Was a post on this forum many years ago about it.

 
Yikes. What's a new one cost? I could weld it for minimal $, but you'd have to remove it. You won't be riding it for much longer this year, I'd bet...
rolleyes.gif
The lowest cost that I could find a new one for was $175.68 from Part Shark. The problem isn't really with the cost of that piece, it's the time that it's going to take swapping it out. Even I could have thought of a better design than the way it is.

Nope riding for the rest of this season is done. If this hadn't happened, we would have ridden a couple of more weekends. As it is, we have other things that need to get done anyway.....and now we just added another to the list.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

Latest posts

Top