Pop and I had both slept very well, the little cabin was very much to our liking. I set up my little stove in the pre-dawn darkness and soon enough the quiet rumble of Joey's shiny red FJR announced his arrival. He had just wiped it down and it was about as clean as could be expected without a hose and a bucket of soapy water. Honestly, he and I had been cleaning the bikes almost every day as best we could.
I sliced a link of sausage and scrambled that into our eggs, we buttered the last of our sandwich bread and enjoyed our breakfast in the crisp, cool, morning air as the sun rose over the surrounding mountains. I had made a decent pot of coffee and it tasted just right in the cool mountain air. I was about as happy as I ever get at that point, I love to cook for my friends and this was a heavenly setting for breakfast. At some point we all said some version of, "I wonder what John is doing this morning?", and there was an obvious hole in our group.
As we set out on Hwy 12 the early morning sun was reflecting off the right side of Joey's bike onto the surface of the road, lighting the asphalt with a blood red light. It was a strange sight and it did not last but a few minutes but it gave Pop and I something to chuckle about as we watched our friend "Get into his element". Hwy 12 was a wonderful place for hppants. I could tell he was holding back and I had no intention of trying to follow him when he finally came uncorked.
This is how he looked at a brief stop on Hwy 12 the day before:
You can tell he was having a wonderful time. His enthusiasm and excitement was a joy to see, Pop and I were both having a great time just watching him.
When we finally reached this overlook on Hwy 12...
Joey was so excited he was almost dancing. He was literally quivering with happiness. "Look at the road, look at that road!" he told us the same way a child would greet Christmas morning. I cannot recall ever seeing him that happy.
Here he is almost dancing with joy:
While he was caught up in the moment the horses waited patiently to be turned loose:
I reminded him again that he was not to worry about us, to just ride his ride. Pop and I would be along at our own pace.
I think he was riding with a bit of caution because he was on an unfamiliar road and the consequences of a mistake out here would be severe. He did take off pretty good and I admit that Scar wanted to follow him. However, Pop was the voice of caution in my headset so we did play but at a slower pace.
Pants wanted to ride The Burr Trail. I had heard of it but could not recall any details. It did not matter anyway, I was committed to following him and as long as we were riding, what difference did it make? It turned out to be wonderful. Not racetrack fast, extreme lean angle wonderful but red rocks, beautiful scenery, quiet and peaceful wonderful. I strongly recommend The Burr Trail.
We paused at an overlook and the distance, the awful, wonderful distance was...
Here I am telling Joey, "That looks just like New Orleans. Except completely different."
John Atlantic Burr used this as a cattle trail. I wondered if I would have been tough enough and mean enough to survive and thrive in that lifestyle. I'd like to think so, but you just never know.
About 18 miles in, the very new, horrible chip seal surface turned to gravel. Truly, it was almost gravel already. At that point we turned around and headed back out the way we came in. Pants seemed to be almost apologizing for wasting our time but Pop and I were completely happy exploring and sightseeing. I felt this was a high point of our trip and I told Pop it was almost a miniature version of Zion NP without the crowds.
We had a good lunch at the Burr Trail Grill where I was distracted by a heavily tattooed waitress (unfortunately not ours:upset
in a pair of Daisy Dukes. The food was good, the service mediocre and then there was pie. We were told it was "about to come out of the oven". When we finally got our semi-warm pie, Pop whispered, "Must have been a cold oven" and I had to laugh out loud. I literally beat Pants to the draw and had the bill paid before he ever realized it. I hope he understood that the happier he got, the happier we got. Buying his lunch a few times was well worth it for me.
We chatted briefly with a gentleman on an '06 FJR and he stared at our Louisiana plates. "That is a long ride!" was a refrain we heard often on this trip. It did not seem that long for us, but few understand how capable an FJR is for long distance travel.
Hwy 12 got better but with a completely different character. Green spruce and yellow aspen replaced the dry rocks as we gained altitude, the curves turned into sweepers that begged extreme lean angles, Joey was coming uncorked... But there were cows everywhere. They were in the road, they were beside the road, they were all around the road. Every time we thought it was safe to pick up our speed, more cows. Still, Pants was riding fairly hard, we were all leaning into it and Pop was very comfortable with our pace. We were all having a ball.
But all too soon we reached the intersection of Hwy 12 and Hwy 24 near Torrey Utah. Pants wanted me to get a room there, ride further to Capital Reef and come back to spend the night. I was not in favor of backtracking and the uncertainty of NO PLAN was suddenly staring me in the face. We wasted our time, our suddenly precious time at the Information Center in Torrey. I was not sure what was in front of us but I knew that getting a room was going to be difficult as there was not much in the way of civilization for miles.
We reached Capital Reef, there was not enough cell phone service to call anywhere. I was getting worried, I did not have my precious Control, and I was Ready To Do Something. Joey was not worried at all, there were numerous places to tent camp and to him it was no big deal. It really was not a big deal but I was on edge and grouchy. When I realized I was cutting into my friend's good time, I made a very strong effort to relax. We rode on into Capital Reef and it was beautiful.
At this point my companions refused to venture further:
My GPS said there was a hotel in Caineville so we continued East but it was a Rodeway Inn that was closed down. And to my complete amazement and utter horror,
there was no town of Caineville! I was riding toward what I hoped would be the town when I realized we had long since passed the few shacks and huts that comprised Caineville. There was no place to stop, no place to turn around... So I did what I always do when things go wrong. I put my head down and shoved. I pushed us to the next "town" a little dot on the map called Hanksville. There was no place to stay there either. At least I had cell service and could contact a hotel in Blanding Utah which was over 2 hours, 126 miles further on.
Well, ****. Confession Time. This is where I messed up, and I messed up badly. I messed up what had been a magical day, I messed it up for everybody.
No excuses, just my story. I was very much aware that today was to be our last day with Joey Pons. He had a few more days to spend, Pop and I needed to think about heading back toward Louisiana and this trip, this wonderful, awesome, fantastic trip was about to take a nose dive. This entire trip had been so easy for me. I had a superb co-captain in Pants. He was as smart as me, he was as experienced as me, he was as attentive to Pop as I was, and he was wonderful company. I had never had a trip go this smoothly and the thought of that separation soured my mood. I behaved like a little *****.
What I should have done was checked for a hotel 50 miles behind us in Torrey, and rode back that way. We could have picked fruit right off the tree in Fruita, we could have laughed at each other's company for one more night and then put off The Separation until the next day. But, I did not. I secured Pop and I a room 2 hours and 16 minutes down the road with darkness rapidly approaching. What a *******.
As we shook hands in the gas station parking lot in Hanksville, the weight of it all hit me. I have learned that no matter how hard you try, you can never go back. You may have other great rides, you may have other experiences that are just as good, but you cannot turn the clock back. Once it is gone, it is gone.
I am 45 years old, I am a grown man and I have a lot of hard won pride. I cried in that parking lot as I hugged my friend. I knew I had screwed him out of picking his apples in Fruita, I knew he would have some wonderful and exciting days of riding in Utah and Colorado. And I knew I would not be part of that. For all that and more, I apologize. Who knows how things would have ended if not for my stupidity that afternoon?
Now that I had a destination and a plan, it was time to let the big FJRs do what they do best. Pop was not mean to me, he knew I was down. He was comfortable and happy on his bike, the 2 hard hours ahead did not worry him and he was full of encouragement. Hwy 95 started off straight and flat but soon enough turned wonderful. I pushed us pretty hard through those long sweepers deep inside those red canyon walls and my world got a little better. Pop stayed right with me, his voice filled with happiness and wonder and I knew that even my childish actions could not erase the goodness of the ride we were taking.
The Hite Overlook on Hwy 95:
The shadows were growing long, we were seeing rabbits in the road and the miles were disappearing behind the two big Yamahas. I had too much time to ponder and think... Pop's voice came into my headset. "You know we had to separate sooner or later. You got worried and you did what I raised you to do. You pushed forward. It may have been smarter to go back, but you didn't. You knew you had the right bike to eat up the miles and you made your decision. Joey will be alright and I am guessing you still have some things left to show me."
We arrived before dark at our hotel. I cleaned the bikes as best I could and then we walked next door to a decent Chinese meal. I slept okay but that was the unhappiest night of my entire trip.