Pepperell
Well-known member
Obviously the malfunctioning lid is just a harbinger of bad things to come! Better unload that turkey before that happens. I'll give you $100 for your FJR, even though it is a GEN II.
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: You are such a Giver!!Obviously the malfunctioning lid is just a harbinger of bad things to come! Better unload that turkey before that happens. I'll give you $100 for your FJR, even though it is a GEN II.
Mine made it to 66,000 miles before it bit the big one. Took it apart to try to figure out the problem/design....when I took it apart, a bunch of greasy, tiny pieces of plastic fell out. No way I could figure out how it worked or how to fix it.Ya know...... my glove box worked great for 7 years and 225,000 miles on my first FJR. For my current one, I had issues at 60 or 70k miles.
I haven't tried the velcro thing. I'm just a lazy **** who'd rather drive around with the lid flapping in the breeze. DOES make a nice drink-holder, though!I tried the velcro thing, hated it, and bit the bullet and ordered a new one. After much playing with the bad one, I couldn't figure out any way to fix it. Parts of the latching mechanism were just worn. I think because of people 'improperly' trying to forcibly open it without the solenoid activated causing damage, that just gets worse with time and use.
You, of all people, should know it's a Gen 1!Obviously the malfunctioning lid is just a harbinger of bad things to come! Better unload that turkey before that happens. I'll give you $100 for your FJR, even though it is a GEN II.
Mine, like yours, is a Gen 1. It had a solenoid to allow opening the lid only when powered. Was yours, like mine is now, removed?Don't believe an engineer spent much time designing the lid latching mechanism. The design of the Gen II latch is more bizarre. The solenoid is powered whenever the ignition is switched on. That's a constant drain of 7+ watts. Goofy.
When you close the lid with the solenoid powered down you are likely damaging the latch mechanism.
Yup, I think closing the latch with the solenoid powered (so power on and gear in Neutral) is healthier for the mechanisme. I didn't remove the latch button, so not 100% sure on that, but judging by what I could see I'd say keep it powered when closing.After studying the mechanism is it obvious why the latch closes easier when the solenoid is powered? Mine seems to close much easier with the solenoid powered. It seems that I'm forcing the mechanism if it's not powered.
Goofy indeed! :blink:Don't believe an engineer spent much time designing the lid latching mechanism. The design of the Gen II latch is more bizarre. The solenoid is powered whenever the ignition is switched on. That's a constant drain of 7+ watts. Goofy...
I'm really just posting because RadioHowie's comment made me laugh...Yep....Major League Hosed, as in "the wife just caught you jerking off to pictures of Regis Philbin" hosed. Spend the $120 for a new glove box, or tape the suckah shut, like I did.
On Gen I (what I have (2003) the solenoid enables the openbutton when powered. So switching it off would be pointless, since you wouldn't be able to open your glovebox at all.I wonder if it would be possible to install a little unobtrusive switch somewhere that could be used to power the solenoid perhaps independently of the ignition circuit?
That's what happens when you put your keys in the glovebox.Have to drag up an old post since the battery died or main fuse blew.how do you get the glove box open with no power????
stranded on the road now.
TIA
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