Guide to Removing the Air Induction System

[wfooshee]

Of course. Unmetered air. Thanks Dale.

Not quite. Unmetered air would be air going into the cylinder and leaning the mixture in the combustion chamber.

The PAIR system allows air into the exhaust header to complete combustion of unburned hydrocarbons. It is an emissions requirement only, has absolutely nothing to do with the engine's performance, as it is downstream from the cylinder combustion process.

Many cars, especially in the '70s and '80s, had air pumps as part of the smog systems, did the same thing: pumped air into the exhaust downstream from the exhaust valve to provide oxygen for hydrocarbons remaining after cylinder combustion.

That's why you get the decel pops, almost backfiring. There IS combustion going on in the pipes when PAIR is active. It's not an issue with improper tuning as many people seem to think (although an engine actually backfiring would be.)

On the FJR, there is no pump, just the valve, which is controlled by the ECU. Removing the system and plugging it up will have no performance effect, positive or negative, but it makes the top of the motor much easier to access, and gets rid of the popping if you're experiencing that.

Possible downside is failing emissions inspection if your state has those. Mine doesn't. Maybe someone citing you for messing with emissions systems, if anyone were to look. That is sort of a federal thing. . . .

'Scuse me, but why go to all the trouble of plugging everything like that, when plugging just the inlet tube from the airbox will have exactly the same affect? Its common in the cruiser world to 'marble' the intake tube. My Mean Streak for instance, has a standard cat eye marble shoved into the intake tube at the plenum = no more popping.

It wasn't just for removing the popping. By removing all the plumbing you make everything on the top of the motor cleaner and more accessible. Blocking the valve would disable the system, but all those hoses are still there, in the way.

 

[FJR919]

WW,

Thanks for sharing a well written nicely photographed tech piece. I removed the system on my FJR as well but left the diverter solenoid in the system with the hose ends capped. My concern was that the ECU would not see the valve and thus trigger a fault code. Anyone ever have such an issue? Obviously it's better if you can take all the crap out like you did here.

 

[Rondo777]

Will doing this be a problem if your bringing the bike in for warrantee service. I'm going to do it but should I put everything back on if I have to bring the bike in to the dealer?

 

[tripntx]

Will doing this be a problem if your bringing the bike in for warrantee service. I'm going to do it but should I put everything back on if I have to bring the bike in to the dealer?

You're brave for asking. I want to know the answer as well, but wasn't willing to accept all the heated ridicule these type of questions seem to generate.

 

[twowheelnut]

Will doing this be a problem if your bringing the bike in for warrantee service. I'm going to do it but should I put everything back on if I have to bring the bike in to the dealer?

You're brave for asking. I want to know the answer as well, but wasn't willing to accept all the heated ridicule these type of questions seem to generate.

That's actually a valid question.

/speculates

The long and short of it is that it depends on your dealer. He may overlook certain mods, but if a factory rep gets involved, I'd bet that he'd nix a claim.

 

[v65]

WW,Thanks for sharing a well written nicely photographed tech piece. I removed the system on my FJR as well but left the diverter solenoid in the system with the hose ends capped. My concern was that the ECU would not see the valve and thus trigger a fault code. Anyone ever have such an issue? Obviously it's better if you can take all the crap out like you did here.

My Gen II has been unplugged for several thousand miles with no issues.

 

[Rayzor61]

This post couldn't have come at a better time. I just got done doing it per Dales instructions after buying his slip-ons. I wanted conformation that other guys are doing it also. It works for me. I just wonder why Dale Walker has a kit for the FZ100 with beautiful billett aluminum caps with set screws to keep them on but doesn't offer them for this bike. I just pluged the tube from the air box but after reading this, the whole octipuss is coming outa there. I wanta keep it clean and simple. Plugging the main hose definetly stopped the popping. I got a used a motion pro economy TB sync tool and will do that job this weekend. But I'm worrying if I'm gonna run into problems with the sync tool. The rubber around the murcury pool is dry rotted. Will this cause unwanted vaccum and screw up the readings? Also, at the top of the Mercury pool resivour is a tiny rubber plug. I thing this plug should be taken out at some point but I'm not sure when. No instructions were inherited with this primitive looking mercury and glass tube device.

 

[fjrpro]

What I did on my RC-51 was to take some fast dry epoxy...fill the par valves on top of the engine... let it dry overnight...your done...No tubes or block of plates....30000 miles and counting no problems.

 

[fjrpro]

Here is what i did on my RC-51.....https://www.rc51.org/pair.htm

 

[Rayzor61]

Cool job, unfortunitly the FJR's ports go right into the top of the cylinder. I'd be afraid of it driping in. Also I want the process to be reversable just in case I gotta take it into the dealer or sell to a tree hugger.......good thought though

PS: that exhaust tip your'e standing next to must be for a Busa!

 

[DaveFJR]

This post couldn't have come at a better time. I just got done doing it per Dales instructions after buying his slip-ons. I wanted conformation that other guys are doing it also. It works for me. I just wonder why Dale Walker has a kit for the FZ100 with beautiful billett aluminum caps with set screws to keep them on but doesn't offer them for this bike. I just pluged the tube from the air box but after reading this, the whole octipuss is coming outa there. I wanta keep it clean and simple. Plugging the main hose definetly stopped the popping. I got a used a motion pro economy TB sync tool and will do that job this weekend. But I'm worrying if I'm gonna run into problems with the sync tool. The rubber around the murcury pool is dry rotted. Will this cause unwanted vaccum and screw up the readings? Also, at the top of the Mercury pool resivour is a tiny rubber plug. I thing this plug should be taken out at some point but I'm not sure when. No instructions were inherited with this primitive looking mercury and glass tube device.

What directions basically say:

Seat plastic tubes all the way down to the bottom of the reservoir. With vinyl tubing on top of tubes in 4 equal lengths, connect to cylinders & open the plug when using the guage. Do not exceed 3500rpm with unit connected. If mercury is accidently sucked into motor, disconnect sync and run motor 0.5 mile or more to purge for no harm to engine.

 

[08FJR4ME]

"no harm to engine"

Yeh but what about the envirement? :dribble: :dribble: :dribble: :dribble:

 

[Wicked Webby]

Along with v65, Radman has also stated that he did not observe any fault codes thrown by unplugging the unit. My 07 has not thrown a code either.

WW

 

[Rayzor61]

What directions basically say:

Seat plastic tubes all the way down to the bottom of the reservoir. With vinyl tubing on top of tubes in 4 equal lengths, connect to cylinders & open the plug when using the guage. Do not exceed 3500rpm with unit connected. If mercury is accidently sucked into motor, disconnect sync and run motor 0.5 mile or more to purge for no harm to engine.

Thanks Dave!

 

[v65]

"no harm to engine"
Yeh but what about the envirement? :dribble: :dribble: :dribble: :dribble:

If any of us were that concerned with the environment we wouldn't be riding around in gas powered vehicle for pleasure. It's all a matter of degrees.

 

[Rayzor61]

Heres my method. I plugged the ports with rubber stoppers and Ultra Copper. I hope it holds. Is there any back pressure that might push them out even though they are siliconed in?

 

[HaulinAshe]

Anybody know if the PAIR solenoid valve is triggered positive or sinked negative? Just wondering if there is some use for that extra electrical connector?

I'll have to check the schematics and see what they show.

 

[ionbeam]

Anybody know if the PAIR solenoid valve is triggered positive or sinked negative? Just wondering if there is some use for that extra electrical connector?
I'll have to check the schematics and see what they show.

True for both Gen I and Gen II.

When there is no voltage at the solenoid, the solenoid is open and passes air to the reed valves. Supplying 12 volts to the solenoid stops air flow to the reed valves (solenoid is closed). The solenoid is open when the ECU is running the cold enrichment map, then shuts off once the thermostat opens. The solenoid is also allowed to pass air when the engine is warm and below some RPM point (I know it is below 2k rpm but can't remember the exact number, I know it is very close to idle speed).

Since this connector gets switched on and off depending on conditions it would be a funky power source :lol:

 

[v65]

Since this connector gets switched on and off depending on conditions it would be a funky power source :lol:

Hold my beer honey, I've got an idea. :devil:

 

[twowheelnut]

Hold my beer honey, I've got an idea. :devil:

I was waiting for that... :lol: