Guide to Removing the Air Induction System

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As luck would have it I am going to both the hardware store and autozone today...
I am lifting the tank this week as well.

This is something I will do... Perfect timing !!

Thanks WW
No problem Cdogman,

Now that I got rid of all that junk.... It sure is easy to get in and out for them throttle body syncs!!

WW

 
I removed the air injection system today in preperation for installing a power commander and having the bike

dyno tuned next week. I took a slightly different approach. Instead of plugging the 4 male barb fittings on the

valve cover and the 1 fitting in the air box by using short pieces of the hose and plugs or caps I used the same method

I have used on all my bikes for the last 15 years to plug off these openings. Clean the barb fittings inside & out

thourghly with carburator cleaner and plug them with GE high temp. silicone. You only need to use enough silicone

to plug about 1/4 inch of the openings. Don't pump any more silicone in than is necessary to block the openings.

There is no pressure in this system and the silicone forms a perminant seal when it cures in about 6 hours. It is

easily removed if you want to reuse the system in the future. I have used this method on 6 bikes and never had

a silicone plug come loose. This approach is cheap ($4.50 for a small tube of the GE silicone) and is as uncluttered

and clean as it gets. WW is absolutely right about removing this system cleaning up the area above the motor and

making future maintenance simpler. :D

John

 
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DONE!! Did TBS,,

I got no kitties... I am gonna run it tomarrow.. Was drinking beer playing with bike in garage,,,, so test run tomarrow..

TBS was WAY off.... Now.... No kitties needed to hear purring

WW.... I dont understand what I am looking at with your Fine tune thing...

I FREAKIN WISH... I was at 900 Ft alt..

Mebbe it is time for a turbo?

**thinking**

 
5) This is what you have removed.
SmogRemoval3.jpg


Wicked Webby
The hose on the non-california that you said was already plugged, is it attached to something? Mine is tucked down between the motor and frame and since I can't see where it terminates I was afraid to pull on it with any force.

 
5) This is what you have removed.
SmogRemoval3.jpg


Wicked Webby
The hose on the non-california that you said was already plugged, is it attached to something? Mine is tucked down between the motor and frame and since I can't see where it terminates I was afraid to pull on it with any force.
It's not attached to anything. It's just sitting there. If it resists, maybe the hose clamp that holds the plug is caught on something.

 
"There is no pressure in this system and the silicone forms a perminant seal when it cures in about 6 hours."

As the exhaust gas flows out of the cylinder a vacuum is created which pulls induction air from the filtered airbox down into the exhaust header. It's probably not a very strong vacuum but it is a negative pressure which would tend to pull the silicone plugs into the head assembly.

 
WW,

Nice write up as usual.

Oh, BTW, nice toes! You must have a heated garage.

Still waiting for spring to arrive in MN.

FJJ'sR

 
Hmmm... I'll make a note of this thread for future reference...but...

Is it necessary to do a TBS after removing this system?

I probably have no need to do this until I do a TBS but I'm curious.

 
I'm in the midst of performing a valve adjustment; and by "a valve" I mean one valve out of 16 was tight, but that is another thread.

Anyway!

I'm all over this idea! I don't want to put all that crap back on. I'm leaning toward the straight up cap approach, rather than hoses with plugs.

My real question is:

What about the exposed electrical connector? I would hate to have some sort of conductor, like water, cause me an electrical short and/or blown fuse.

I think the cleanest solution would be to buy the mating part of the plug and seal the wire end.

Perhaps just another rubber end cap on the connector might be easiest.

 
Perhaps just another rubber end cap on the connector might be easiest.
+1

Assuming you bought one of those "multi-sized" collections like I did, you've got some spares. If not, just wrap the sucker in electrical tape if it concerns you.

 
Just a little update all,

I recently switched out my stock Yamaha "capped" covers with some block off plates that Joe2Lmaker made for me.

These block off plates work very well and install fairly easily on the Gen II models. Remember to use a short ball-end allen for those tighter spaces.

The Gen I's are a more in depth install, because you have to remove the coolant pipe to remove (the stock ones) and install (the new ones).

Thus, my above tutorial is a great and "simple" way to cap off this system on the Gen I's. Also works great with the Gen II's but the block off

plates really clean up the top of the motor. BTW.. When doing the "plugged hose" method... MAKE SURE TO USE THE PROPER PLUGS IN THE HOSE's.

Some have tried other plug methods with "leaky" results.

Here is a pic of the block off plates as I was installing them.

Pairplates.jpg


Oh Yes, If you want to purchase a set of these plates...

Joe2Lmaker pasted on his spec's (from the set he made me) to 08FJR4ME and he is producing them. Check into it here:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...=116612&hl=

Big shout out to Joe2Lmaker and 08FJR4ME,

Webby

 
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I'm just gonna remove and toss the water pipe on top. Just more crap in the way. Same goes for the big ass black thing in front keeping all the cool air offa me. Air cooling was good enough for Granpa, it's good enough for me.

 
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I'm just gonna remove and toss the water pipe on top. Just more crap in the way. Same goes for the big ass black thing in front keeping all the cool air offa me. Air cooling was good enough for Granpa, it's good enough for me.
**************************************************************************

:clapping: :lol: :lol:

 
I'm just gonna remove and toss the water pipe on top. Just more crap in the way. Same goes for the big ass black thing in front keeping all the cool air offa me. Air cooling was good enough for Granpa, it's good enough for me.
Don't forget that heavy-assed spliney thingy attached to the port side of the rear wheel.

 
Was changing plugs tonight, remembered seeing something about removing the Air things...and having just done exactly that on my '09 Triumph Bonnie, I said "why not?" So now they are off and a thought comes to me....rare but there anyway: on the Bonnie, if you don't leave the electrical connection in place (solenoid?) you get a fault code and the engine light comes on and stays on until you reset it and either reinstall the solenoid or jump the connector with a low ohm resistor. Do not ask how I know. Now about that connector on the Feejer ('04, GenI), does it even have a check engine light? I honestly dont recall and too lazy to go get the manual. Since there was no mention of the problem, I'd assume it not a problem. But then again, there was no mention on the Triumph forum either.....

 
I need to do this, since I added slip-ons the popping is very noticable on decel. Have to buy TB sync tool first I guess...

 
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UselessPickles, After installing the plates can you ride the bike without doing a throttle body adjustment? I understand an adjustment is necessary but I will have to go to my dealer for this adjustment since I do not have the proper tools.

 
UselessPickles, After installing the plates can you ride the bike without doing a throttle body adjustment? I understand an adjustment is necessary but I will have to go to my dealer for this adjustment since I do not have the proper tools.
Removing the air induction system should have no effect on the throttle body balance, unless you forget to plug the hole on the air box. But throttle body balance would become a minor issue next to the unfiltered air getting sucked into the engine.

 
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