Hard down shifting...clutch circuit issue?

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When I took my '05 apart I also noticed the pink dots are not always in the triangle marked slots from the factory. I think it doesn't matter.

 
Rode it 60 miles today with zero shifting issues after the clutch soak.I did pull the short clutch rod out and lube it while I had the clutch apart...and I supposed that could have some effect on this problem but I didn't see anything wrong with the rod.

Clutch soak seems like an odd fix for these symptoms, but that seams to have been the culprit.

Now I'm wondering how long this soaking will last.

I found some of the disks were actually bone dry. No oil on them at all. They actually had a slight bit of clutch powder on them.

Just doesn't seem like what should be a wet clutch should be so dry and have the plates look so different between each other.

Hope this and more frequent riding than the PO cures it for good. Time will tell I guess.
Everyone who's had their FJR clutch apart has found that only the two friction plates at each end are moist. All the inner ones are dry. This is something that seems to have been occurring certainly for the Gen 2 bikes, but Gen 1 bikes seem to suffer less. Some of us believe the oil either has no path to the plates, or the path design is inadequate. Some have found what would appear to be burnt-on grease on the metal plates, probably a corrosion prevention coating from the plate's manufacture.

The pink dots? I've no idea why they are supposed to be aligned wth the triangles. From the factory, some are and some aren't. Doesn't seem to make any difference, nor can I conceive of any explanation that makes sense. Which doesn't mean there isn't a reason.

Anyway, glad you've a nicely functioning bike.

 
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Mcatrophy

I believe it is likely that some bikes have an oiling issue with the clutch and mine is one of them. I'll be very curious to see how long the soak lasts.

 
No, they ALL have an oiling issue of the wet clutch, as in there isn't any. But they all seem to work OK without oil once they are cleaned up and dunked in oil on assembly. Consider them a semi-dry clutch design.

 
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The stroke of the clutch pressure plate on my '04 FJR is approximately 2.0 mm. According to the specs I've seen the minimum stroke for an '06 AE is 2.8 mm.

There are nine friction plates in the clutch. 9 x 2 = 18 friction plate interfaces.

If the pressure plate moves 2 mm and that movement is allocated over 18 interfaces the average interface gap when the clutch is disengaged is 2 / 18 = 0.11 mm or 0.004 of an inch.

Not all that much movement. One can assume that they don't move equally.

If might help the plates to separate if one slips the clutch pretty aggressively on occasion. That would help clean the interfaces and generate some heat.

 
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If might help the plates to separate if one slips the clutch pretty aggressively on occasion. That would help clean the interfaces and generate some heat.
One of the issues some have found when they do a clutch soak is what appears to be burnt-on grease on the metal plates which probably adds to the stickiness.
With too much heat, you might burn what little oil there is and actually cause a problem, never mind the increased wear, although these clutches seem to cope with a fair amount of abuse.

This is a comment coming from someone from a time when clutches were much less robust, think cork inserts held in a metal grid as the friction plate (note items 4 and 5 in the picture below). So probably to be totally ignored.

(Click on image for larger view)



 
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I have a very early gen1 an sometime I must do a clutch soak, everytime found inner plates completely dry.Maybe a more thinner oil like a 5W30 can solve the problem

 
I have about 5000 miles since my soak. It was smooth as silk for about 1000 miles. Then shifting got a little bit notchier but it levelled out at an acceptable level. It's still much better than before. I like the 'lay down on the right side' idea. I might give that a try.

 
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