HELP! 2007 will not start
- Thread starter Intech
- Start date
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ionbeam
2 FUN
LCB
Well-known member
Gee whiz - is this the same bike with the fork problem? Sounds like it's time to trade that lemon in for a Gen III, dontcha think?...
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
You're most likely right.... a check of the plugs should tell the tale. Fresh battery a must.
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
Being IF the valve train MAY BE OFF, IMO, I'd be double/triple checking that first BEFORE any further cranking/
potential damage.
I'm assuming the front, cam chain run was taught when checking?
potential damage.
I'm assuming the front, cam chain run was taught when checking?
There is no damage that occurs when you are off by one tooth on the crank (or two teeth on the cam) which is the most common post valve check/adjust or CCT removal problem. It is very easy for the chain to skip forward one tooth on the crank even when you are being careful. Been there, done that, but caught it on the inspection. That is why it is so important to check and recheck the valve timing before you button it back up.
But, I do not see how or why that would cause the ECU to throw an error code 14.
Bob, did you clear the error code 14 and it re-occurred while attempting to start? If not, maybe that is just an old stale code from the past and not germane to the current problem?
But, I do not see how or why that would cause the ECU to throw an error code 14.
Bob, did you clear the error code 14 and it re-occurred while attempting to start? If not, maybe that is just an old stale code from the past and not germane to the current problem?
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
I agree, its very easy to slip a tooth or more on the crank, especially since the cams were zip tied.
If the chain wasn't taught on the front run when checking/installing, maybe more.
Yes it'll still run but crappy. But its not even doing that..
Point being, as its EXTREMELY CRITICAL for the timing to be be dead nuts on, I'd be checking those first.
Time consuming yes, but well worth the effort VS potential damage and if anything, just to rule it out.
With fuel obviously being present, it won't stay flooded days later.
Valve/piston timing, as that was the last time the engine ran would be the first thing I'd be checking. You can verify no wires got pinched, etc while going back thru it as well. A pinched/unplugged wire can throw a code..
Just my 2cts
If the chain wasn't taught on the front run when checking/installing, maybe more.
Yes it'll still run but crappy. But its not even doing that..
Point being, as its EXTREMELY CRITICAL for the timing to be be dead nuts on, I'd be checking those first.
Time consuming yes, but well worth the effort VS potential damage and if anything, just to rule it out.
With fuel obviously being present, it won't stay flooded days later.
Valve/piston timing, as that was the last time the engine ran would be the first thing I'd be checking. You can verify no wires got pinched, etc while going back thru it as well. A pinched/unplugged wire can throw a code..
Just my 2cts
Intech
Mr. Camping Meet
Thanks for the feedback. If the chain was in a position that was going to cause damage then the damage is done with all the cranking I did. I can only believe that if it is off it is by one or two teeth. I was very careful to get it back in the same position. I did, however, have the cam out no less than 4 times until I got the clearance where I wanted it. I think I will just go back in and start from scratch. Again, that only costs me time and a coolant charge. The piece of mind will be worth it. I will not be dicking with again until the weekend.
Fred - I didn't reset the code. The manual said it would reset after the condition cleared. How do you reset it manually? I must have missed that in the FSM.
Fred - I didn't reset the code. The manual said it would reset after the condition cleared. How do you reset it manually? I must have missed that in the FSM.
Intech
Mr. Camping Meet
I should add that I didn't remove the right cover and rotate the engine with the crank. I put it in 5th gear and rotated it with the back tire. I realize now that that is a great idea if you don't have to release the cam chain tension and remove a cam.
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
I don't remember, but can you see the crank mark on the TDC mark without pulling the cover(thru an access hole)?
IMO, I'd pull that cover when re-checking the marks and use a socket turning the crankshaft clockwise just to
make sure.. I gather you pulled (or wound in the CCT) doing the shim change?
BTW, if that's new coolant in the bike, heck I'd catch it and use most of it again(keeping any crap that falls
into it out)
IMO, I'd pull that cover when re-checking the marks and use a socket turning the crankshaft clockwise just to
make sure.. I gather you pulled (or wound in the CCT) doing the shim change?
BTW, if that's new coolant in the bike, heck I'd catch it and use most of it again(keeping any crap that falls
into it out)
Intech
Mr. Camping Meet
I don't think there is any way to see the cam markings without removing the cover. I may buy a cheap new drain pan and catch the coolant. It is new.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Get one of those tin foil roasting pans at Wallymart............ sorry to hear you're having to go back into this so deep...........
The EEPROM and Malfunction history are in the Diag "sensor" locations d:60 and d:61. To clear the codes you go to d:62 (which will display the quantity of errors stored) and toggle the kill switch. This will reset them all to zero
Have no fear about reusing the brand new coolant. Just catch it in a (relatively clean) bucket and then pour it into a gallon jug. Leave the last little bit with any sediment and Bob's your uncle.
(I bet you do have an Uncle Bob, don't you)
Have no fear about reusing the brand new coolant. Just catch it in a (relatively clean) bucket and then pour it into a gallon jug. Leave the last little bit with any sediment and Bob's your uncle.
(I bet you do have an Uncle Bob, don't you)
Intech
Mr. Camping Meet
Thanks Fred.
And, no, I don't have an uncle Bob. I had one uncle and he was Herb.
Good idea!
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
From my post #29, I was referring to the mark on the crankshaft Rotor itself,(part #21): https://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2007/FJR1300A+-+FJR13AW/ELECTRICAL+1/parts.html
not the cams. Obviously the cams have to lined up as well (with all the chain slack towards the back of the bike)
I don't remember if you can see the alignment marks thru an access hole in the RS cover or not...
not the cams. Obviously the cams have to lined up as well (with all the chain slack towards the back of the bike)
I don't remember if you can see the alignment marks thru an access hole in the RS cover or not...
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Intech
Mr. Camping Meet
Gotcha. If I can see it with out the cover off I can at least verify, but the valve cover has to come off none the less.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
I don't believe the access hole on the right cover is big enough... 'sides, since the chain was tied off at the camshaft, the 'slippage' likely occurred on the bottom end. You'll have to take the cover off anyway....... and you can see exactly what is what without guessing.
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Intech
Mr. Camping Meet
ionbeam
2 FUN
Being off a tooth or two on the cams isn't too bad. Being off a few teeth on the crank sprocket is too bad. Since there has been no mention that the engine cranks too fast we should be able to assume that there has been no valve damage. The engine should start but perform sluggish being off one tooth on the crank sprocket.
Hopefully when you start taking things apart to troubleshoot you will see something that is obviously the cause of the no start and it will be quick to fix and at no cost
TownsendsFJR1300
Well-known member
Yepper, exactly... Just a little slack of the chain hanging down will likely skip a tooth...
There's been occasions on the FZ6 forum (and I think some here-same set up), for instance, when changing out the CCT of potential chain movement. Should I replace mine, that RS cover comes off, the cam chain zip tied tight together, then the CCT changed out.. Can't go wrong.
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