HELP WANTED! Soak Clutch? Rebuild? Ideas?

[SacramentoMike]

If I was going to the doctor with a health issue, I'd be looking for a diagnosis, and then a prescription.

Symptom: clutch slipping, I assume. I mean it occasionally kind of races when accelerating hard--or fairly hard--in most any gear. Been happening since summer sometime. Seems pretty straightforward, right? (BTW, '05 with about 65K.)

So searching around these parts, I've seen discussion about soaking the clutch plates, or replacing them. It sounds like one or the other would address the problem, though I've seen posts where folks tried the first thing and it didn't take care of the problem. Maybe that was a thread where the complaint was the clutch "grabbing" or being difficult to shift, which isn't my problem here.

It seems to me I could try the conservative approach--removing and soaking the plates--and then do the replacement if necessary. Makes sense? If I just soak the plates, should I replace the springs at that time anyway, in case that takes care of the problem?

Another question is in the last couple days of searching (not full time, of course), I haven't been able to find the thread I think I remember seeing that itemized just what you need to get to do this job. The set of clutch plates, the springs that go in there and are replaced simultaneously, and is there anything else? And does anybody have good source recommendation for all this?

I've been told this isn't too much to take on, and I even have a couple of volunteers lined up to watch and laugh at me, and possibly even help. I just want to know I'm on the right track before I start turning screws. Thanks.

 

[Bustanut joker]

I'd go the soak route first Sac.. I wouldn't think the springs are bad but if the cost was decent? Might as well go whole hog.

I haven't searched either, but it seems to me there may have been a few issues with the clutch slave cylinder acting up.. ???

Or maybe I'm just drunk. Nope wait, it's only beer.

 

[Auburn]

Mike, if you are going in to check the clutch for a soak, measure the stack to see if it is in spec. Just guessing, but with 65,000 miles on it, you may be due for a knew clutch. Especially you do a lot of start and stopping in the city.

 

[FJRay]

With the milage on it if it was mine I would probably go ahead and do the complete job. It may not be required but I tend do try to do things once and have it over with. It's not a hard job and if you bleed the system while you're at it them it's a one time deal.

 

[roggiedog]

If something is slipping, I don't think soaking in oil is the solution. Hope this makes sense.

 

[FJRay]

If something is slipping, I don't think soaking in oil is the solution. Hope this makes sense.

The FJR uses a wet clutch like most motorcycles. In some cases a lack of oil will cause clutch malfunctions. There has been lots of threads covering this

 

[roggiedog]

Which malfunction do you speak of? Dragging clutch and clunking in shifting or a slipping clutch?

 

[Bustanut joker]

Umm I do believe Mike said slipping.. "dry" plates tend to slip in a wet plate machine.

 

[wfooshee]

Clutch soak is the remedy for sticking clutch, not slipping clutch. If it's slipping, it'll probably need replacement.

 

[Bustanut joker]

The little DT 100 I just acquired wouldn't pull itself across a level garage floor. It was in a basket for a decade plus.

I cheaped out and let the plates soak for a day.. I "flipped" the little **** when I got her going again.

 

[roggiedog]

Well that's just apples and.....well.

It ain't even close to oranges. But keep pushing....you got a point to defend.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Defend?? hardly pal.. I didn't add sand to the oil. I simply applied what I learned here and guess what?

It fukin worked.

Where did you see clunking/dragging BTW?

 

[johnny80s]

Now don't get vulgar Barry. Hate for you offend somebody.

If you have the money replace it like Ray said. He has a little experience with this stuff. If not then try a soak. Get in there once then be done.

 

[fjrob1300]

My clutch started slipping in summer of '11. I took the clutch out cleaned it with brake cleaner then soaked it in oil for 2 days then put it back together. Ran it for another 25 000kms. It was slipping again this fall under hard acceleration. Sooo just yesterday I picked up a new set of friction plates and a new clutch spring. So when it warms up a little around here I will install the new clutch. My bike is an 03 with 150 000 km. Just shy of 100 000 miles.

 

[Queensland Ken]

I'd check if the master cylinder to confirm it is releasing it's pressure, easy to perform, a first check.

Crack open the slave bleed nipple and see if the brake fluid is under pressure.

If you have been useing the correct oil, it's most likely worn friction plates, it's fairly straight forward to check.

Just make sure you record the correct sequence of removal.

 

[SacramentoMike]

Thanks for the thoughts, guys. I'm a little disappointed I got only helpful suggestions and technical assistance, almost no vulgarity and no livestock references at all. I was hoping for some of that, after all. Makes sense to replace the parts and start fresh--I understand they're not too expensive. But can anybody suggest a good source, like an online parts supplier? Kind of assuming the local Yammy dealer would be, as someone recently said, "suboptimal."

And if anybody happens to recall a good site or link with a nice thorough "how to" about all this, I'd be much obliged for that, too. Thanks.

 

[mcatrophy]

I'll add my .02 -

I've not heard of dry plates on an FJR causing slipping, but I suppose it's possible.

I'd suggest checking for residual fluid pressure as suggested by Queensland Ken above, easier to do than a clutch inspection.

If that shows nothing out of the ordinary, take the clutch apart. It's straight forward to do (I offer my "how-to" here, first posted here), and you should see any sign of worn plates. If it all looks good, soak the plates and reassemble, all you've lost is a bit of time and oil (you may need a new gasket, I needed one in the soak linked to, didn't need one for a soak on my second FJR).

While you've got it apart, check that the operating plunger moves to and fro easily. Expect something like 2-3mm movement to operate the clutch (go easy, I've never tried activating a hydraulic clutch lever without the clutch in place).

I suppose you could have glazed friction material. Compare the surface with that shown in my pictures. If glazed, try removing the glaze with sandpaper on a flat surface, but don't over-do it. At worst, replace the plates.

[edit] I see yours is a Gen I. The clutches are identical to my Gen IIs as far as I am aware.[/edit]

[Further edit] Only QK has mentioned oil. I know that talking about oil is likely to lead to all sorts of stuff and eventually to NEPRT territory, but is the oil you are using a motorcycle-specific oil? Most car oils have friction modifiers that are designed to make the oil more slippery, which they do very well, particularly in a motorcycle wet clutch. [/Further edit]

 

[Mihalis fjr]

You must replace the plates..(my opinion)

But have a look and in the metal plates..

 

[TomInPA]

Mike, I have noticed that boats.net seems to have consistently low prices. If you talk with Donny at Capital Yamaha, he will match any internet price you come up with. He has been a great local source for me for everything from tires to tupperware. I have noticed not all of the parts counter help is equally anxious to ensure you get the best deal, so ask for him.