Holeshot Headers with Stock Cans

[Fergi]

If I read your post correctly, you used the gaskets between the header and mufflers and had to have the muffler ends expanded a little to make them fit. So, if you chose to leave out the gaskets, then do you still need to expand the muffler ends?
I am running the full Muzzy 4-2-1 system and there is no gasket where the muffler attaches to the header. Seems to work fine.

Do you still like your Muzzy Geezer? I really like the looks of that system and was wondering if you'd do it again?

John

 

[Geezer]

Do you still like your Muzzy Geezer? I really like the looks of that system and was wondering if you'd do it again?
John

When I first got the Muzzy it was way too loud for my taste. It actually hurt my ears when starting the bike cold. It quieted down some once it warmed up.

I repacked the muffler with a heavy mat that is supposed to be the same stuff Walker uses. The packing is made by Hindle and I found a local shop that stocks it. I packed it in pretty tight. That quieted things down some, and it seems to be getting quieter as I put more miles on it.

At this point I'm happy with the Muzzy. It takes away the heat from the catalytic converter, which really bothered me in traffic. It is also lighter and looks better than the stock setup.

If I were looking to change the exhaust today I'd take a good look at the Holeshot header with stock mufflers, but I still like the look of the Muzzy better. And the Muzzy full system with round aluminum muffler only cost me about $500. Now that I got it quieted down I think I'd do it again.

 

[Fergi]

Do you still like your Muzzy Geezer? I really like the looks of that system and was wondering if you'd do it again?
John

I repacked the muffler with a heavy mat that is supposed to be the same stuff Walker uses. The packing is made by Hindle and I found a local shop that stocks it. I packed it in pretty tight. That quieted things down some, and it seems to be getting quieter as I put more miles on it.

Thanks Geezer,

Is your canister designed to be disassembled or did you have to perform major surgery?

I think I'm going to order the Muzzy.

 

[Geezer]

Thanks Geezer,
Is your canister designed to be disassembled or did you have to perform major surgery?

I think I'm going to order the Muzzy.

My canister is round and the ends are attached with pop rivets. Just drill out the rivets on one end and the can pulls apart. There is a tube in the center made of expanded steel with a loose packing of what looks like fibreglass on it. That tube is just a friction fit so it pulls right out. Use a thin bead of high temp silicon gasket goop to seal the end when reassembling. I used masking tape to hold the new packing tight on the tube for reassembly. The Hindle packing came with stainless steel rivets to replace the ones I drilled out, but I used aluminum ones that I had on hand so I could remove them easier next time.

Just in case you never drilled out rivets before, the trick is to use a small drill and only go deep enough for the flange on the rivet to come off so you don't change the diameter of the hole. The rest of the rivet falls through and you get it out after you pull the end off the canister.

 

[Fergi]

Thanks Geezer,
Is your canister designed to be disassembled or did you have to perform major surgery?

I think I'm going to order the Muzzy.

My canister is round and the ends are attached with pop rivets. Just drill out the rivets on one end and the can pulls apart. There is a tube in the center made of expanded steel with a loose packing of what looks like fibreglass on it. That tube is just a friction fit so it pulls right out. Use a thin bead of high temp silicon gasket goop to seal the end when reassembling. I used masking tape to hold the new packing tight on the tube for reassembly. The Hindle packing came with stainless steel rivets to replace the ones I drilled out, but I used aluminum ones that I had on hand so I could remove them easier next time.

Just in case you never drilled out rivets before, the trick is to use a small drill and only go deep enough for the flange on the rivet to come off so you don't change the diameter of the hole. The rest of the rivet falls through and you get it out after you pull the end off the canister.

I like the looks and the design of the Muzzy. We'll see if they're too loud and I'll be ready to address that if necessary.

Thanks again!

 

[UselessPickles]

Hexacones will not fit on a the Holeshot headers.

I just contacted Remus and was told that their mid-pipes are made of stainless steel and can be safely expanded at a muffler shop to fit aftermarket headers.

 

[adaniel]

Okay....I'm confused. Being somewhat interested in aftermarket headers and stock mufflers, I was curious if there are there cats in the US mufflers or not? It appears other countries have them in the muffler...

From link (https://motorbikedirect.com/2008/05/page/4/) with regards to 2008 FJR: "4-into-1-into-2 stainless steel exhaust optimizes machine performance across the power band and utilizes four three-way catalytic converters to reduce emissions. Two are located in the junction “box” under the implement and one in each muffler. Combined by the Air Induction System (AIS), the FJR1300 is one of the cleanest-running large-capacity motorcycle engines forever built. It easily exceeds the strict European EU-3 emission standards."

From a UK 2005 FJR link (https://www.yamaha-motor.co.uk/Images/IMB_FJR1300_UK_tcm46-60518.pdf): The Yamaha FJR1300 features twin exhaust mufflers for the quietest of rides because less noise means enhanced comfort and happier, less tiring long-distance touring. Both mufflers are also equipped with catalytic converters which aid the environment by minimising exhaust emissions on every ride.

There are NO CATALYTIC CONVERTERS in the FJR's mufflers. Only in the header.

I beg to differ. It's my understanding that the Gen II added a cat in each muffler for a total of four.

 

[johnny80s]

There are cats in the Gen II mufflers.