How not to strip your oil drain threads.

[Wicked Webby]

I became a dealer a few weeks ago and plan to put one on my FJR (and some of my other bikes and all my cages too).Looks like the FJR should take either the F106(14mm-1.5) or F106N(14mm-1.5 w/nipple).

You will probably either need to cut off that little casting next to the drain plug or use the adapter ADP-106(14mm-1.5) which should extend it enough to clear the casting.

I need to double check but I will probably cut the casting since I wouldn't want the valve sitting that far down off the bottom of the motor.

I need to place my first order this week so maybe I'll order a few extra of the F106 and F106N and a few adapters to suit everybody's preference.

Catfish,

Let us know what setup you go with.

WW

 

[dbvolfan]

Had a Fumoto valve on my wifes Mazda 3 and my WRX for over 120k combined miles with not a single incident.

We hit a 90lb dog on the interstate one night that went throght the engine compartment with so much force that the radiator was wrapped like tin foil around the engine which had shifted several inches off the blocks. The oil pan was sheared off and laying in the road with gobs of 'stuff' hanging from the still attached Fumoto valve. That thing didnt budge an inch.

Now if it makes you feel safer, there is a spring 'lock' they sell for $1 that will remove any uncertainty around it moving but it was a PITA to put on so I never used it. I thought about adding one to the FJR but felt it would hang down to far for my comfort. If you go with the N model which has the nipple I think you would defintely have some clearance concerns.

 

[RichardS]

My '00 Vette has a very expensive aluminum oil pan, so I tried the quick drain Fumoto plug. I liked it, but it took over an hour to drain the 6 hot quarts of oil. So I went back to the 6" 3/8 ratchet method.

When I tried to remove the FJR drain plug the first time, the 6" ratchet would NOT do it. So I used my 18" torque wrench. Then I used the 6" to reinstall the drain plug to 'hand tight'. I then removed the plug with the torque wrench and 'saw' the results: 20 ft lbs. Close enough for me.

I posted awhile back that I think the tech writer at Yama screwed up this torque value. The rear end plug is the SAME plug as the oil drain plug except it has the magnet. So why does the rear end plug torque to 17 ft lbs. but the oil to 31 ?? The metric is 22 & 42, I think the 42 is a typo!

And I went to Advanced Auto, got some solid drain plug washers and reuse them until they fall apart. In my almost 50 years of changing my own oil, I've HAD to replace 1 washer/gasket.

 

[old&slow]

The 17 ft.lbs. torque for the rear end oil plug and the 31 ft. lbs. torque for the oil drain plug kind of

had me wondering too.... same size bolt ,, same crush washer ,,, ????

Anyway ,,, torqued my oil drain plug to 20 ft lbs. of torque,,, haven't had any leaks or problems yet..

 

[Geezer]

I became a dealer a few weeks ago and plan to put one on my FJR (and some of my other bikes and all my cages too).Looks like the FJR should take either the F106(14mm-1.5) or F106N(14mm-1.5 w/nipple).

You will probably either need to cut off that little casting next to the drain plug or use the adapter ADP-106(14mm-1.5) which should extend it enough to clear the casting.

I need to double check but I will probably cut the casting since I wouldn't want the valve sitting that far down off the bottom of the motor.

I need to place my first order this week so maybe I'll order a few extra of the F106 and F106N and a few adapters to suit everybody's preference.

Please let us know how this fits on the FJR. I am interested to know if it can be installed without modifying the pan, and how low it hangs when installed. I scraped my pipes once going over a large speed bump so I wouldn't want the valve to hang lower than the pipes.

I found this: "The Drain Valve for passenger cars and light trucks is approximately 7/8" thick. This means that the valve sticks out only 1/2" more than the regular plug head from the oil pan. The Nipple on the N-Types Valve extends from the valve for 5/8". We do not recommend using the N-Types valve for vehicles with low clearance, as the valve may stick out too far against the ground."

 

[Rolavine]

I'm a proponent of teflon pipe tape and used it last time I did the FJR's oil. I started using this years ago on cars that had abuse of the oil pan threads usually caused by employment of 'stoned monkeys' by quick oil change places. The tape is good to 500 degrees F and I've never had a leak in the last 20 years of using it, even with oversized and split plugs.

I suppose I need to lay in a supply of crush washers though, I've been reusing the old one.

 

[dbx]

I suppose I need to lay in a supply of crush washers though, I've been reusing the old one.

Or not, your choice. In 30 years of owning bikes and doing my own maintenance, I have never seen a reason to use a new crush washer. Naturally, you'd always want to inspect it for damage or leakage, but if you're semi-careful about removing and reinstalling the drain bolt, there should be little reason to replace the washer.

 

[Jim Dandy]

I became a dealer a few weeks ago and plan to put one on my FJR (and some of my other bikes and all my cages too).Looks like the FJR should take either the F106(14mm-1.5) or F106N(14mm-1.5 w/nipple).

You will probably either need to cut off that little casting next to the drain plug or use the adapter ADP-106(14mm-1.5) which should extend it enough to clear the casting.

I need to double check but I will probably cut the casting since I wouldn't want the valve sitting that far down off the bottom of the motor.

I need to place my first order this week so maybe I'll order a few extra of the F106 and F106N and a few adapters to suit everybody's preference.

Well? Pics, too of the installed valve, so we can decide if the clearance is an issue or not.

Thanks,

Jimbo

 

[Duff]

Is there room to install a Fumoto valve (it's slightly longer)? I put 1 on every car/bike I own and never have to remove the plug again. This one is on my Honda CBR-1100XX Blackbird:

No, unfotunately, I have one sitting on the bench in the garage and there is a protective tab in the way. Same issue on my Honda Ridgeline... I really want to use that valve on something.

 

[JLBFJR]

quickoildrainvalve.com is the same thing as they said "formerly Fumotovalve" on their web site.I'm just a satisfied customer. Had 1 on my full size Bronco a while back that lasted from 1st oil

change until I sold it at 160k miles and it never leaked a drop and never got loose.

Now I have it on my car, my wife's car and my bikes...

Mikerider,

Have you installed the Quickoildrainvalve on your FJR?

 

[Clement]

I became a dealer a few weeks ago and plan to put one on my FJR (and some of my other bikes and all my cages too).Looks like the FJR should take either the F106(14mm-1.5) or F106N(14mm-1.5 w/nipple).

You will probably either need to cut off that little casting next to the drain plug or use the adapter ADP-106(14mm-1.5) which should extend it enough to clear the casting.

I need to double check but I will probably cut the casting since I wouldn't want the valve sitting that far down off the bottom of the motor.

I need to place my first order this week so maybe I'll order a few extra of the F106 and F106N and a few adapters to suit everybody's preference.

EDIT : Guess I was wrong. it's not a 10mm thread.

 

[lacofdfireman]

So did anyone ever sucessfully install a Quicky type drain valve? If so please share. I would love to have one of those on my FJR.... That would be slick...

 

[shuswaper]

Too much is made of drain plugs and washers and the like...RichardS and Rolavine have got it right !!! The holycow torque value for the engine oil plug is out of this world...it wouldn`t

be the first time a factory service manual had it wrong. I use a new crush washer every time, only because I don`t want to over stress the threads, so it is easy for me. In any case...I like the idea of Teflon tape on the threads...sorta like, double protection...like many of us should have used in our youth! :assassin:

 

[Breadman]

I suppose I need to lay in a supply of crush washers though, I've been reusing the old one.

Or not, your choice. In 30 years of owning bikes and doing my own maintenance, I have never seen a reason to use a new crush washer. Naturally, you'd always want to inspect it for damage or leakage, but if you're semi-careful about removing and reinstalling the drain bolt, there should be little reason to replace the washer.

I have about ten oil changes completed on my '07, with the original washer still on duty. I am comfortable with this. I do understand that others like both the peace of mind factor of installing a purdy new washer, as well as the "crush" of a new washer to ensure its tightness. Your mileage may vary.

 

[RadioHowie]

I "finger tight" with RED Loctite on the drain bolt.

I'll NEVER strip the threads, and the bolt will NEVER come out on its own.

And a quick 5 mile burst down the I-state warms up the pan enough to soften up the RED Loctite, but not enough to take out the bolt without a wrench.

Poifekt solution! Plus, I use a cotton swab and brake cleaner to "de-oil" the threads after the drain and before reinserting the RED Loctited bolt.

 

[KnuckleHead]

Last year while changing my oil and using a torque wrench I managed to over torque and strip the oil pan threads. To make a long story short I did ended up getting a new oil pan installed. This year when changing my oil I have adopted a little different procedure in order not to ever strip the threads again. Hope this helps anyone who is attempting an oil change to prevent the headache I went through last year.
After the bike is on the center stand I clean off the oil drain bolt and place a reference mark (used a black Sharpie) on the drain bolt as well as the bottom of the oil pan, so when I re-install I will not over tighten past the reference mark. I always use a new crush washer.

In addition, I drill a small hole on the top head of the bolt as well as a small hole in the little lip that is oriented just in front of the drain bolt on the bottom of the oil pan. After I reinstall the drain bolt I use a small wire to tether the drain bolt the oil pan protective lip. I know this may be a bit anal but it gives me the piece of mind knowing that the drain bolt can't back out.

I had the same problem last year on my first oil change. I am not much of a wrench so I grabbed the manual and followed it. Set the wrench to 31 ft lbs and stripped the **** outta it. Talked to a few people I know that know more about this crap then me and they laughed out loud at 31 lbs. The insisted that I read the manual wrong and that it must have been INCH lbs or something. Had to show them the manual for them to believe me. Anyway, I called Yamaha and bitched about it and got them to pay for the new oil pan and install ($750 worth!) without much of an argument.

Looking around the forum, the manual has been like that for many years and it seems that ever year a few people fall into this trap. For the life of me I cant understand why momma Yamaha hasn't fixed the manual yet.

 

[mcatrophy]

QUOTE (KnuckleHead @ Mar 27 2009, 10:57 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

...

Set the wrench to 31 ft lbs and stripped the **** outta it...

... For the life of me I cant understand why momma Yamaha hasn't fixed the manual yet.

The only thing I can think of is that the torque they suggest is good for the plug when the thread is dry. Obviously after an oil change, it's well lubricated. If that's the case, it's the factory torque and that's where the manual gets the figure from.

I know a "wet" thread needs less torque than a "dry" one, even to the extent that if you're using loctite you have to back off the dry torque figure. Whether that's enough to account for this I don't know. Perhaps someone with more technical knowledge could comment.

'Course, I've never used a torque wrench in my life, and so far (touch wood) I've neither stripped threads nor had things come loose (except for my old Tiger Cub, naturally). I do bolts up by feel, except the back axle of the FJR, which I did up by the loudness of my grunting

.

 

[KnuckleHead]

Yeah, I learned my lesson the hard way. I just snug it with a 3/8 socket. Mech at the dealer said no more the 12lbs if you must use a torque wrench.

 

[Catfish]

OK, I finally got around to doing an oil change (I've probably done 3 on my Ural since that post) and there's an issue.

The Qwik Valve F-106 hits the casting on the motor as expected but it also hits the exhaust pipes!

I would have cut the casting but the pipes will be an issue.

I'm down to two options, reinstall the original drain plug or add the ADP-106 adapter.

Adding the ADP-106 adapter will let everything clear but will add about .75" to the length of the valve.

I'm not sure if that'll hang down to a dangerous level.

I plan to check tonight and I'll grab some more pictures.

OK, I'll just edit this post instead of reposting.

Even with the ADP-106 adapter it will not clear the pipes.

Tonight I'll be drilling the casting in the motor and the drain bolt for safety wire and buttoning it back up.

No dice (without a BUNCH of modding) this time.