How not to strip your oil drain threads.

[frayne]

Last year while changing my oil and using a torque wrench I managed to over torque and strip the oil pan threads. To make a long story short I did ended up getting a new oil pan installed. This year when changing my oil I have adopted a little different procedure in order not to ever strip the threads again. Hope this helps anyone who is attempting an oil change to prevent the headache I went through last year.

After the bike is on the center stand I clean off the oil drain bolt and place a reference mark (used a black Sharpie) on the drain bolt as well as the bottom of the oil pan, so when I re-install I will not over tighten past the reference mark. I always use a new crush washer.

In addition, I drill a small hole on the top head of the bolt as well as a small hole in the little lip that is oriented just in front of the drain bolt on the bottom of the oil pan. After I reinstall the drain bolt I use a small wire to tether the drain bolt the oil pan protective lip. I know this may be a bit anal but it gives me the piece of mind knowing that the drain bolt can't back out.

 

[FJRMGM]

just use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and one hand and you will be less likely to strip those threads.

 

[mikerider]

Is there room to install a Fumoto valve (it's slightly longer)? I put 1 on every car/bike I own and never have to remove the plug again. This one is on my Honda CBR-1100XX Blackbird:

 

[Crash Cash]

just use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and one hand and you will be less likely to strip those threads.

No kidding... there's no pressure on the oil other than the weight of it sitting in the pan, it's not like you have to gorilla the thing down to within an inch of its life. I just tighten mine until I feel the crush washer stop crushing.

I now use a "sidewinder" style ratchet to keep my hands from getting roasted, as I turn the speeder crank on the end of the wrench. Sure, oil gets on the head of the wrench, but I just wipe that off. Something like this one from aircraftspruce.com

And I'm not familar with the Fumoto valve, but looking at quickoildrainvalve.com it's a much nicer unit than the FRAM crap I used on my SV-650. I guess I will have to try a couple. Sigh. This forum spends too much of my money!

 

[mikerider]

quickoildrainvalve.com is the same thing as they said "formerly Fumotovalve" on their web site.

I'm just a satisfied customer. Had 1 on my full size Bronco a while back that lasted from 1st oil

change until I sold it at 160k miles and it never leaked a drop and never got loose.

Now I have it on my car, my wife's car and my bikes...

 

[Bostonfan2]

just use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet and one hand and you will be less likely to strip those threads.

Bingo. its all you need.

Ray

 

[Big-D]

I would suppose the Fumoto valve is safe, but I would still be concerned that the spring that holds everything in place would break (or quit functioning some how) and my engine oil would run out while heading down the road, causing a blown or seized engine or possibly having the rear tire slip-out from becoming coated with oil. My luck it would happen in a curve.

If I rode so much that I had to change my oil every week or so, I might consider using one. But having performed all of my oil changes on all of my vehicles , including those of my family for the past 35 or so years and yet to have stripped out any threads, I think the old fashion way of using a socket or considering how straight forward the drain plug is to reach on an FJR, a wrench works perfectly. Just don't be too over zealous when reinserting the drain plug.

Putting the bike on its center stand, turning on XM and listening to your favorite music, while changing oil, mounting and balancing new rubber, washing or whatever, taking your time and enjoying the maintenance side of ownership is all part of the fun.

 

[Crash Cash]

I would suppose the Fumoto valve is safe, but I would still be concerned that the spring that holds everything in place would break (or quit functioning some how) and my engine oil would run out while heading down the road

If you look at the design, you'll see that it has a detent for the lever to sit in. And I don't think the spring is under that much stress.

And hey, I saw a VF500 Interceptor oil pan crack and pour all the oil out, so ANYTHING weird can happen, no matter what.

The thing I worry about is that the FRAM unit had a really long threaded part, so that when you "drained" the oil, you could take the valve body out and get another 1/2qt out. Considering the SV only takes about 3qts anyways, that's a lot of dirty oil to be left in there. This doesn't look so bad, and I could trim it anyways.

The part I hate about changing my oil is the scorch from the hot oil just as the bolt comes out of the threads. This'll cure that.

 

[RTSR1/FJR]

Is there room to install a Fumoto valve (it's slightly longer)? I put 1 on every car/bike I own and never have to remove the plug again. This one is on my Honda CBR-1100XX Blackbird:

I have one of those on my truck! Great little devise! Makes changing oil a lot cleaner and easier on the diesel. They make one that's striaght that has a nipple you can slide a 3/8'' hose onto.

https://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/

 

[kiteman11]

I would suppose the Fumoto valve is safe, but I would still be concerned that the spring that holds everything in place would break (or quit functioning some how) and my engine oil would run out while heading down the road, causing a blown or seized engine or possibly having the rear tire slip-out from becoming coated with oil. My luck it would happen in a curve.
If I rode so much that I had to change my oil every week or so, I might consider using one. But having performed all of my oil changes on all of my vehicles , including those of my family for the past 35 or so years and yet to have stripped out any threads, I think the old fashion way of using a socket or considering how straight forward the drain plug is to reach on an FJR, a wrench works perfectly. Just don't be too over zealous when reinserting the drain plug.

Putting the bike on its center stand, turning on XM and listening to your favorite music, while changing oil, mounting and balancing new rubber, washing or whatever, taking your time and enjoying the maintenance side of ownership is all part of the fun.

You forgot the beer swilling part.

 

[maddawg46]

quickoildrainvalve.com is the same thing as they said "formerly Fumotovalve" on their web site.I'm just a satisfied customer. Had 1 on my full size Bronco a while back that lasted from 1st oil

change until I sold it at 160k miles and it never leaked a drop and never got loose.

Now I have it on my car, my wife's car and my bikes...

So what was the paert number for this quick drain valve? They dont show a motorcycle section, just cars and boats.

 

[Craigers]

quickoildrainvalve.com is the same thing as they said "formerly Fumotovalve" on their web site.I'm just a satisfied customer. Had 1 on my full size Bronco a while back that lasted from 1st oil

change until I sold it at 160k miles and it never leaked a drop and never got loose.

Now I have it on my car, my wife's car and my bikes...

So what was the paert number for this quick drain valve? They dont show a motorcycle section, just cars and boats.

Did any answer ever come back on this? I'd like to get one too.

 

[Pierre]

quickoildrainvalve.com is the same thing as they said "formerly Fumotovalve" on their web site.I'm just a satisfied customer. Had 1 on my full size Bronco a while back that lasted from 1st oil

change until I sold it at 160k miles and it never leaked a drop and never got loose.

Now I have it on my car, my wife's car and my bikes...

So what was the paert number for this quick drain valve? They dont show a motorcycle section, just cars and boats.

Did any answer ever come back on this? I'd like to get one too.

+1 here

 

[slowpoke]

Torque wrench? How about just hand tight?

 

[Craigers]

Torque wrench? How about just hand tight?

Oh, I never had a problem with thread stripping, I just like farkles! :yahoo:

 

[Rondo777]

quickoildrainvalve.com is the same thing as they said "formerly Fumotovalve" on their web site.I'm just a satisfied customer. Had 1 on my full size Bronco a while back that lasted from 1st oil

change until I sold it at 160k miles and it never leaked a drop and never got loose.

Now I have it on my car, my wife's car and my bikes...

So what was the paert number for this quick drain valve? They dont show a motorcycle section, just cars and boats.

Did any answer ever come back on this? I'd like to get one too.

+1 here

Me Likey Too

 

[NoCage]

I also don't have faith in "feel", and want to use my torque wrench to establish the correct tightness (I did, after all, spend almost $100 on the damned thing). Factory spec is 31 ft. lbs., I think, which is too much, IMHO. I use the torque wrench at 25 ft. lbs... and have had no stripping of the plug, nor leakage. YMMV.

 

[Catfish]

I became a dealer a few weeks ago and plan to put one on my FJR (and some of my other bikes and all my cages too).

Looks like the FJR should take either the F106(14mm-1.5) or F106N(14mm-1.5 w/nipple).

You will probably either need to cut off that little casting next to the drain plug or use the adapter ADP-106(14mm-1.5) which should extend it enough to clear the casting.

I need to double check but I will probably cut the casting since I wouldn't want the valve sitting that far down off the bottom of the motor.

I need to place my first order this week so maybe I'll order a few extra of the F106 and F106N and a few adapters to suit everybody's preference.

 

[YooperDick]

The spring on the valve is a non-issue. All it does is hold the lever in the detent. I have one on my diesel PU and never had a drop leak from it.