If you want a simple FJR throttle lock, try this.

[mwhjrtx]

I have a 2008 FJR with a stock throttle. I made a very simple throttle lock today that works great. Total cost, 10 cents to $2. Time … 10 minutes.

Remove the throttle side bar end weight with an allen wrench. Place a 1”odX7/16”id steel washer over the slight protrusion around the bar side mounting hole. It will sit on the end of the bar while you replace the weight. I replaced the stock M6-1.00x25 cap screw with a M6-1.00x30 from Lowes to give a little more thread length, but I think that the stock screw is probably fine. Insert the cap screw through the weight with something that will cause the screw to fit very tightly inside the weight and allow the weight to be used as a thumb screw. I did this by inserting the end of a very small plastic tie into the weight hole and then forcing the cap screw all the way into the weight. You could also try securing it with loctite or even epoxy, but I was so far trying not to do anything that I could not undo. Loosely reinstall the weight. You no longer need an allen wrench. The weight is now a thumb screw. When you snug or loosen the weight with your fingers, the new washer applies drag on the end of the throttle tube. I have never seen a ThrottleMeister, but it must operate in a similar manner. The lock holds well while engaged. To prevent the screw from slowing vibrating out when the lock is not engaged, I put some Teflon tape on the threads. The only visible change once everything is back together is the new steel washer against the bar, so the installation is very clean. I may try to find a dark colored washer. Then the installation would be invisible.

I see nothing that would cause unusual wear or create a hazard not inherent to any throttle lock. The throttle can be somooth operated even with drag applied. This works great on my bike. Yours may be different.

 

[CrabbyJack]

It didn't happen without pictures...

CrabbyJack

 

[mcatrophy]

I'm all for simple and cheap solutions to problems.

But, if I read this correctly, the weight is tightened against the end of the throttle tube. So, if you simply close the throttle, it will tend to turn the end weight, which will tighten it further, so making it more difficult to close the throttle.

Hope I'm mis-interpreting, but it doesn't sound safe to me.

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

I have a 2008 FJR with a stock throttle. I made a very simple throttle lock today that works great. Total cost, 10 cents to $2. Time … 10 minutes.

Remove the throttle side bar end weight with an allen wrench. Place a 1”odX7/16”id steel washer over the slight protrusion around the bar side mounting hole. It will sit on the end of the bar while you replace the weight. I replaced the stock M6-1.00x25 cap screw with a M6-1.00x30 from Lowes to give a little more thread length, but I think that the stock screw is probably fine. Insert the cap screw through the weight with something that will cause the screw to fit very tightly inside the weight and allow the weight to be used as a thumb screw. I did this by inserting the end of a very small plastic tie into the weight hole and then forcing the cap screw all the way into the weight. You could also try securing it with loctite or even epoxy, but I was so far trying not to do anything that I could not undo. Loosely reinstall the weight. You no longer need an allen wrench. The weight is now a thumb screw. When you snug or loosen the weight with your fingers, the new washer applies drag on the end of the throttle tube. I have never seen a ThrottleMeister, but it must operate in a similar manner. The lock holds well while engaged. To prevent the screw from slowing vibrating out when the lock is not engaged, I put some Teflon tape on the threads. The only visible change once everything is back together is the new steel washer against the bar, so the installation is very clean. I may try to find a dark colored washer. Then the installation would be invisible.

I see nothing that would cause unusual wear or create a hazard not inherent to any throttle lock. The throttle can be somooth operated even with drag applied. This works great on my bike. Yours may be different.

Simple eh? You lost me at "Remove..."

 

[redneckj]

Pics would help to unscramble my brain. TY

 

[mwhjrtx]

I have a 2008 FJR with a stock throttle. I made a very simple throttle lock today that works great. Total cost, 10 cents to $2. Time … 10 minutes.

Remove the throttle side bar end weight with an allen wrench. Place a 1”odX7/16”id steel washer over the slight protrusion around the bar side mounting hole. It will sit on the end of the bar while you replace the weight. I replaced the stock M6-1.00x25 cap screw with a M6-1.00x30 from Lowes to give a little more thread length, but I think that the stock screw is probably fine. Insert the cap screw through the weight with something that will cause the screw to fit very tightly inside the weight and allow the weight to be used as a thumb screw. I did this by inserting the end of a very small plastic tie into the weight hole and then forcing the cap screw all the way into the weight. You could also try securing it with loctite or even epoxy, but I was so far trying not to do anything that I could not undo. Loosely reinstall the weight. You no longer need an allen wrench. The weight is now a thumb screw. When you snug or loosen the weight with your fingers, the new washer applies drag on the end of the throttle tube. I have never seen a ThrottleMeister, but it must operate in a similar manner. The lock holds well while engaged. To prevent the screw from slowing vibrating out when the lock is not engaged, I put some Teflon tape on the threads. The only visible change once everything is back together is the new steel washer against the bar, so the installation is very clean. I may try to find a dark colored washer. Then the installation would be invisible.

I see nothing that would cause unusual wear or create a hazard not inherent to any throttle lock. The throttle can be somooth operated even with drag applied. This works great on my bike. Yours may be different.

I am not set up for online pictures and I do not appear to be able to simply insert an image. I will be happy to email pics to anyone interested, but it is a washer guys...just a washer. You don't have to ride the bike to try it. Install the washer as discribed and tighten the weight with an allen wrench while playing with the throttle. On my bike, the throttle tube slips smoothly on the washer and holds adjustment well. I am not selling it. Try it if you think it has merit, or you could use a $30 giant plastic clothes pin.

 

[roger dodger]

Using a washer for a lock is fine....

but on my old Connie we used a yellow CAT o-ring and just rolled it from the bar weight into the crack. That is simple AND cheap for all you frugal riders out there.

 

[Sarge]

Basically what you did was to recreate the principle of the Throttlemeister. So with that said....why didn't you post this wonderful epiphany before I spent over $100 on Throttlemeisters?

 

[mwhjrtx]

Using a washer for a lock is fine....

but on my old Connie we used a yellow CAT o-ring and just rolled it from the bar weight into the crack. That is simple AND cheap for all you frugal riders out there.

I discovered the washer trick trying to fit two sizes of Cat o-rings to the FJR. Neither size would work. The width and depth of the space where the o-ring would fit is just wrong. The weight is short and tapers away from the groove. I can see it working on another bike, or with different weights. I liked the idea enough to buy o-rings, but I could not do anything with them on my FJR.

 

[Phatjax]

I took this idea and ran with it. I used the stock bolt, and instead of gluing or otherwise permanently affixing the bolt to the weight, I modeled up a handle that has an interference fit with both the weight and the bolt, and printed it out on my MakerBot. Had to hammer it into the weight, but I can go from free throttle to locked throttle in half a turn of the handle. I am not yet convinced of the safety of this design however... I'm gonna try it out super early tomorrow morning while it's still coolish here in the desert.

Throttle Lock Images

 

[fjrrrr]

Ok, I'm wondering what's the update? How did this farkle work out. I need one if it works.

 

Are there parts/pieces available at the local hardware store to make these? What do I need? I like the thumb switch idea better than rolling the bar end weight.

 

[fjrrrr]

•  
  
• Why could you not use one of those white nylon washers behind the bar end weight, seems that would be safer and more forgiving than a steel washer?
  

 

[mwhjrtx]

Ok, I'm wondering what's the update? How did this farkle work out. I need one if it works.

 

Are there parts/pieces available at the local hardware store to make these? What do I need? I like the thumb switch idea better than rolling the bar end weight.

I have used this every day since I first posted. It still works well. The only part you really need is the 1" washer. Home Depot has them for 12 cents. The od of the washer could be larger, but the id in the original post is important. It will not work at all if it is too small, and it will not work well if too large. It is not necessary to use a plastic washer. The washer pushes the throttle tube toward the center slightly. The throttle tube is nylon and slips well against the smooth steel washer. The actual drag is from the rubber at the bike end of the throttle. The throttle can still be easily rotated by hand with the lock engaged. Two things with the weight have to work. The cap screw needs to move when the weight is rotated with your fingers. It becomes a thumb screw. The original way I did this was to wedge something in the hole beside the screw. This did not work long term. I have since used some loctite to secure the screw inside the weight and this has worked well. The factory cap screw is very sloppy inside the female threads. When the lock is not engaged, the weight tends to loosen and you could lose it. I put some Teflon tape on the threads and that has tightened it up so that it stays where I put it when not engaged. The difference between engaged and not engaged is only about 90 degrees of rotation. Test it and adjust it on the drive with the bike turned off. You can tell if it can work for you and how it should be set. If you are not comfortable with the mod, remove the washer, put the bar end weight back on, and you are back to stock.

 

[Phatjax]

Ok, I'm wondering what's the update? How did this farkle work out. I need one if it works.

 

Are there parts/pieces available at the local hardware store to make these? What do I need? I like the thumb switch idea better than rolling the bar end weight.

I have used this every day since I first posted. It still works well. The only part you really need is the 1" washer. Home Depot has them for 12 cents. The od of the washer could be larger, but the id in the original post is important. It will not work at all if it is too small, and it will not work well if too large. It is not necessary to use a plastic washer. The washer pushes the throttle tube toward the center slightly. The throttle tube is nylon and slips well against the smooth steel washer. The actual drag is from the rubber at the bike end of the throttle. The throttle can still be easily rotated by hand with the lock engaged. Two things with the weight have to work. The cap screw needs to move when the weight is rotated with your fingers. It becomes a thumb screw. The original way I did this was to wedge something in the hole beside the screw. This did not work long term. I have since used some loctite to secure the screw inside the weight and this has worked well. The factory cap screw is very sloppy inside the female threads. When the lock is not engaged, the weight tends to loosen and you could lose it. I put some Teflon tape on the threads and that has tightened it up so that it stays where I put it when not engaged. The difference between engaged and not engaged is only about 90 degrees of rotation. Test it and adjust it on the drive with the bike turned off. You can tell if it can work for you and how it should be set. If you are not comfortable with the mod, remove the washer, put the bar end weight back on, and you are back to stock.

I've been using this on my bike for the last month, probably put close to 1700 miles on it. As a lock, it works great, especially with the little handle I made that indicates clearly the locked or unlocked status. It also lets you know how far loose the weight has come. As I'm using the stock bolt, if it makes 2 full turns counter-clockwise, the weight will fall off... so you've just gotta tighten it a little bit every 20 minutes or so, as the vibration and moving the throttle will gradually loosen the bolt more and more. For how cheap it is, and how much you DONT have to drill into the housing on your bars, I think I'm gonna stick with it.

 

[wheatonFJR]

c a m e r a.

p h o t o.

k e y b o a r d.

p o s t .

 

[Knifemaker]

They stop making the Vistacruze and the NEP throttle locks? I saw the NEP lock at the dealer for $19.00 awhile back.

You buy a $10,000 + motorcycle and wear a $400 helmet but suddenly cheap out on something that sounds to have some safety issues just to save a few bucks?

Wouldn't this be shoving the throttle tube against the inside of the switch box? Seems it would wear out eventually.

I spent a whole six dollars on a Crampbuster which seems to work pretty well. (although not really a "throttle lock)

Guess I don't understand.

 

[SacramentoMike]

It looks like a pretty good idea to me. I've got a Vista Cruise right now and it's not all that shiny. I have to carry a small screwdriver in a handy place because if I don't tighten it up regularly I start losing speed after just a few seconds. Yep, it only cost about $20, but if I could get something that worked at least as well for under a quarter, why wouldn't I try it? Especially since it's completely reversible. It's not like you're cutting holes in your muffler, for Pete's sake.

And if I could get a helmet that was at least as good as my $400 Shoei for under a quarter, you bet your ass I'd be all over it. Or a motorcycle at least as good as my FJR, too. For a quarter. Cost and value are related, but not always cast in stone together. Myself, I like seeing innovative ideas put forth on the forum. Good one, OP. I might keep those specs handy and find the parts on a trip to the hardware store one of these days.

 

[mwhjrtx]

Phatjax, put a little teflon tape on the treads of the cap screw. The tape tightens up the sloppy threads and keeps them from backing off so readily when the lock is not engaged. Then hand tighten the screw until there is just the slightest bit of resistance. Mine will then stay put.

 

[Phatjax]

Phatjax, put a little teflon tape on the treads of the cap screw. The tape tightens up the sloppy threads and keeps them from backing off so readily when the lock is not engaged. Then hand tighten the screw until there is just the slightest bit of resistance. Mine will then stay put.

Yeah, I did that right off the bat, and it doesn't quite do the trick. For those looking for pictures, I posted this project on the Forge @ Local Motors...