Imbalance problem at high speed

[FJRBluesman]

Fred - IMO if the washer is miss placed on the inside of the caliper, it may wear the brakes funny or more rapidly, but it should still have the same spacing, so handling technically isn't affected. But if the washer was missing, that would create a gap which could affect handling. When my wheel was off last, I don't recall what it looked like if the washer got swapped.

It would help if the OP filled out his profile and we could help the guy if a forum member is in his area.

 

[08FJR4ME]

There's just one washer/spacer on the right side of the wheel, and it is supposed to go outboard of the caliper, inside of the right side swingarm. It's #21 in the below exploded parts diagram. I can see how it might be mistakenly installed inside the caliper. That would cause the brake caliper to be misaligned with the brake rotor.

Here's a 1000 words:

All of the stuff from Item 4 (oil seal) to item 8 (oil seal) is all captive inside the wheel hub. Then the stuff from there thru item 10 (bearing) is inside the cush drive. The only other washer or spacer that isn't inside the wheel is #19 the washer on the left side.

If I recall correctly Fred there is one other bushing which goes up against the helical gear side I know it falls out every time I do a tire change. More of a bushing than a washer though. Maybe that is missing who knows at this point.

If the OP can get some pictures posted it would help. He can email them to me I will get them posted if he is not sure how.

On another note: I did take a ride today and check out that monument over in Plymouth.

Dave

 

[HotRodZilla]

WTF?? Double post 7 hours later...

 

[willboe]

Same here RR... I didn't have a problem until I added a topcase...

OMG, on topic and correct! Say, the world is going to end

Yes, if you have a top box it most definitely will cause wobbles without a passenger.

My Givi V46 top-case has seen 144 indicated, and the bike was still rock steady. Stock Steering Head Bearings, stock suspension, 26,400 miles, PR2/3 tires. Only mod: MCL Billet Triple Clamp. Oh, also Yamaha plus 3 windshield (up). The stability of this bike amazes me.

What kind of top-case do you have? Maybe the Givi is more streamlined ? ? ?

"Undersized axle" is certainly not acceptable, and "sideplay in rear wheel", WTF, try a different dealer.

 

[ionbeam]

What kind of top-case do you have? Maybe the Givi is more streamlined ...

The wobble is a 'feature' of the OEM top case. It isn't severe and does not limit speed but it is noticeable. I almost never have the top box on without a passenger and with a passenger there is no wobble at all.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Where the Hell is the OP?? Did we get trolled??

 

[odot]

He's not a troll....he's my friend. Check it out.....

 

[08FJR4ME]

He's not a troll....he's my friend. Check it out.....

Evidently he didn't read the warning when signing up. You gotta have a thick skin to hang around this joint.

 

[ionbeam]

Ol' Bobiz has no personal information, nada, zip. If we read his complaint correctly I see we have been answering the wrong question, here is what Bob sez:

...still have imbalance at 75 mpg on up...

I'm pretty sure all FJRs are imbalanced at 75 mpg.

 

[odot]

Oh, that's hilarious............

 

[willboe]

The wobble is a 'feature' of the OEM top case.

Ahhh, good to know. That OEM trunk seems to have 2 or 3 more problems than it is worth. Personally, I have gotten spoiled by the Givi Trunk. I probably look like a motor scooter driver, but, on day trips, I use only the top trunk. The bike feels a bit more nimble without the side bags, better for lane splitting, and I like the stand-up access to my stuff with none of the gravity issues of the side bags (sh*t falling out when I open them). Also, after I added more tools, and a 12 volt air compressor to my standard gear, I can now do wheelies easier. I think the total weight of the trunk and gear is currently about two or three hundred pounds. < slight exageration

 

[FJRBluesman]

I think he is a troll. "Increasing the size of his rear axle", that's classic. I'll just increase the size of my crankshaft for a better fit.

Lets move on folks, nothing to see here. Odot, start another usless thread please....

 

[Bustanut joker]

Spot on Simon.. Last POS troll cost me a week off. This troll ain't had the decency to tell me to fuk off yet.

 

[odot]

Hey, bust.....fuk off.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Thanks Odie.. I needed that!

 

[willboe]

I'll just increase the size of my crankshaft for a better fit.

Please post how you do that. I think my wife would like it if I had a bigger crankshaft . . .

 

[BikerGeek99]

Hey, bust.....fuk off.

Gunny!

 

[FJRbobliz]

Appreciate all the feedback. I have a factory manual for the 2010 FJR. All spacers and bearings are in proper order. I increased the size of the axle by center punching in rows on the axle at the wheel bearing races which increased the size and took the slop out in those areas. What is going on in the pumpkin I don't know. I tested the shaft by putting it in the wheel prior to center punching - off the bike - and I could move the axle up and down in the bearings. I have checked the rear swing arm movement... it had slight movement and so I increased the size of the shaft in the same manner and that rectified this movement. The bike is in another Yamaha shop under warranty... no word yet on diagnosis of underlying problems.

I owned a 2005 and 2007 FJR prior to the 2010 FJR... no top case on any of them.

 

[FJRbobliz]

Further developments since my last posting are as follows:

The knurling of the original axle had taken out the play in the rear but the bike did not feel perfect so, after discussion with the second Yamaha dealer who looked at the paper trail on record with Yamaha, it was decided to replace the rear axle under warranty.

This has now been done... the new axle being very slightly larger than the original one.

However, the play in the rear wheel when rocked sideways with hand on bottom and top could be felt again after installation of the new axle by the dealer. In other words the new shaft, in my opinion, is also undersized. The dealer set up the suspension to factory specs and they claim my steering head bearings were slightly loose. Upon receiving the bike back it is pretty good up to 75 mph but at 80 mph it is still shaking.

The dealership who did this work has been really trying to fix the problem... in fact I received a follow-up call from the service manager at this dealership after I had the bike back on the road a couple of weeks. During this telephone conversation I expressed my concern that there is still play. We both felt it advisable to do a few more lengthy free-way rides with me focussing on the issue and I shall be having further discussion in a week or two.

I love the FJR... but I am convinced it should be fixable to optimum performance!