Installing All Balls Racing Tapered Steering Head Bearings

[fjr vfr]

Honda Molly is ok to use, but I used antisieze lube yesterday. It sticks like the old proverbial.

I tighten up the bearings to about 20 ft pound, they don't need too much tension and check in about 1,000 kms.

Anti-sieze lube, Mate? Are you talking the same stuff used on things like spark plug threads and other dis-similar materials? If that's what you're using it wouldn't be very good. Anti-sieze compond is abrasive! It will wear out your bearing!

Steering head bearing don't turn like wheel bearings. They only move side to side a short distance. That means most any multi purpose or bearing grease will work fine. It's not very critical.

Although I don't think I would use it, I don't think anti-sieze is abrasive. It's just oil mixed with aluminum powder or if it's old enough then mixed with lead or copper. Nothing there to wear out bearings.

Even if anti-seaze isn't abrasive like rubbing compound of something like that, it still has metal powder mixed in. I don't think metal powder is very good in bearings. If you read about it they refer to it as anti-seize and thread lubricant. That would indicate things that don't normally move until it's time to remove them. Much different than a bearing lubricant.

 

[FJRMGM]

I will caveat this by saying that I was not unhappy with the OEM bearings and I wasn’t having any problems

Its your bike and you can do what you want with it.

But, every time I see someone doing this I say to myself: "man, what a lot of effort to fix a non-problem."

 

[TomInPA]

Anti seize compounds are not intended for this application, and I'm unaware of anyone using it for steering bearing lubricant. Please feel free to report back in 40K miles on the performance and wear results.

Molybdenum grease is the product of choice for splines to provide an extremely high pressure, high temperature lubricant that works by coating the gears in a micro-thin protective metal coating. Again, not for ball bearings, and I have no idea what the long-term wear and performance would be because as far as I know, it is not tested for that application.

Mama Yama recommends a high quality lithium grease, and synthetics should work fine for steering and wheel bearings. I'm going to stick to that recommendation. Lithium grease is cheaper, and cleaner to apply and is what is recommended. As far as these metallic alternatives, I don't get it. :huh:

 

[John_Dumke]

JimLor, Thanks for the excellent right up. My front end is apart right now, so I am glad I stumbled upon this thread at this point.

I have always felt like the FJR is a little vague at speed (100+mph), so hopefully this mod will help improve steering precision. Thanks for the right up.

 

[Nikk]

Question about heating the lower AllBalls bearing.

Given that the All Balls bearing seal must be on the steering stem before seating the lower bearing, has anyone melted the seal with a 300F bearing?

 

[Brisendines]

Just tried to install the bearings on my 07, but the lower steering stem bearing split apart on me, even though I was using the old race and some hard plastic sleeve to drive it on. I heated the bearing and froze the steering stem.... Extremely frustrating. Need to get this nack together ASAP as it is my primary mode of transportation.

 

[kamal]

Sorry to hear this.

I installed these in my Gen1 over the winter without any heating or freezing. Only PITA was installing the lower race.

Good luck.

Al.

 

[Queensland Ken]

I normally leave the bearing in the oven at 200F for about 1/2 hour, likewise the steering stem in the deep freeze for about an hour.

Used to use an induction heater at work but the oven works well and you have one shot to do it.

I had everything set up at a table just outside the kitchen, drifts and the old race, slipped on perfectly.

Have had 2 good successes and only one time where I had to use a drift and the old race.

Have a set of welders gloves now if I ever do it again.

 

[ULEWZ]

I just did this and it was not too difficult, but not for the weak or mechanically challenged. I used a long socket extension do drive the old races off the neck. The new bearing wacked on really easy with a 30 lb sledge. Make sure the driving tube fits over the inner race of the new bearing, not the outer race or it will damage it. 5 hits and it was on. The old race works good to seat the new races in the neck. I will try it out tomorrow to see how it feels. Oh, I used the All Balls kit.

And thanks for the write up. Why did I do this? My front end felt loose so I tightened it up. Then it was too tight. No happy medium, so tapered bearings it was.

 

[Canadian FJR]

After just replacing my steering head bearings (2nd time) I thought that this thread deserved a bump.

Canadian FJR

 

[PhilJet09]

After just replacing my steering head bearings (2nd time) I thought that this thread deserved a bump.






Canadian FJR

How many miles did you have on each set?

 

[Canadian FJR]

I repacked and re-torqued the stock ones several times and they lasted 163,000 km

The first set of All Balls only lasted a little over 50,000 km but I'm pretty sure that the Trans Lab trip last summer pretty much killed them. There was a very significant notch straight ahead.

Time will tell how long these ones last.

Canadian FJR

 

[hppants]

Other than the notch test which I am aware, are there any other signs and symptoms associated with bad steering stem bearings? Occasionally, I get a slight 60mph head shake. It's very subtle though and my front tire has 10k on it, although there is no visible cupping on it.

Just curious

 

[Bounce]

When was the last time you actually cleaned and adjusted your steering head bearings?

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html

 

[FJRay]

When was the last time you actually cleaned and adjusted your steering head bearings?
https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html

That's a good link for those getting ready to do the job. I've done my 03 twice in a 100k and am still on the original bearings. Next time I'll change to the tapered just cause I've got a set that was for another customer that sold his bike. I'm sure that most never get touched for the life of the bike.

 

[hppants]

Bounce - I haven't taken the steering head apart yet. I have checked the torque on the nut (I have the spanner) and the bearings are packed full of grease. There is no notch anywhere full left to right. I went to tapered roller bearings for an older nighthawk back in the day and driving those outer races out is a PITA. I'm trying to avoid this if possible, but we'll see.

 

[Geezer]

I repacked and re-torqued the stock ones several times and they lasted 163,000 kmThe first set of All Balls only lasted a little over 50,000 km but I'm pretty sure that the Trans Lab trip last summer pretty much killed them. There was a very significant notch straight ahead.

Time will tell how long these ones last.

Canadian FJR

I am surprised. I would expect that tapered roller bearings would take a lot more abuse than ball bearings. Maybe the bearings themselves that All Balls uses are not up to par with the stock Yamaha stuff.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Every machinest I have ever known has said All Balls bearings are ****. Go with Timkins or something better made. I wouldn't install All Balls anything in my bike.

 

[Denver_FJR]

Every machinest I have ever known has said All Balls bearings are ****. Go with Timkins or something better made. I wouldn't install All Balls anything in my bike.

Yeah, I've picked up on similar internet lore about All-Balls, but this is the first report I've heard where someone has actually replaced a set due to wear. And while folks dis' them, I've never heard what's actually inferior about them. Hardness? Dimensions? Pot metal?

 

[HotRodZilla]

Every machinest I have ever known has said All Balls bearings are ****. Go with Timkins or something better made. I wouldn't install All Balls anything in my bike.

Yeah, I've picked up on similar internet lore about All-Balls, but this is the first report I've heard where someone has actually replaced a set due to wear. And while folks dis' them, I've never heard what's actually inferior about them. Hardness? Dimensions? Pot metal? :scare:

No idea. I know it came up when my dad had to return a gross of them because they didn't meet spec...Whatever that was at the time. He started asking around and all the other shop owners told him to never buy them again. All the Farmers I knew used either Timkins or their OEM branded stuff.