Installing cruise control this weekend...

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Congratulations on getting the install done and getting it functional. Reward yourself with a long ride :)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Switched source makes the cruise work, but if your signalling fuse is blown, it will NOT disengage with the brake lights, because 12 volts will never appear at the purple wire. The brown wire found at the rear brake switch on Gen-I bikes and used as the brake light 12 volts source is available on Gen-II bikes, but it's up under the dash. It's the same brown wire you find on the horns (if you haven't upgraded the horns and used a relay to supply more power), the glove box solenoid, factory grip warmers, and on the front brake lever switch. That makes it much less convenient to get to, since you have to carry that through the engine area to get to your servo unit.

As you've got it wired, with a switched source to the red wire, the cruise works fine, as you've discovered. If the signalling fuse is blown (no horn, no brake lights, no release on the glove box) then the cruise never sees brake lights, and it will not disengage on the brakes. Low probabilty, yes. Zero probabillty, no.

You can test by pulling the signalling fuse and going for a ride. Set the cruise, tap the brake. You'll have to either fight the cruise with the brake until it gives up and releases, or you'll have to hit its off button, or cycle the key.

If you've used the brown wire off the signalling fuse for your 12 volts, the cruise won't set if the fuse is blown (or pulled.)

Caveat: My Gen-II diagram is 2006, and I have no idea what, if any differences exist in newer bikes.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Switched source makes the cruise work, but if your signalling fuse is blown, it will NOT disengage with the brake lights, because 12 volts will never appear at the purple wire...As you've got it wired, with a switched source to the red wire, the cruise works fine, as you've discovered. If the signalling fuse is blown (no horn, no brake lights, no release on the glove box) then the cruise never sees brake lights, and it will not disengage on the brakes. Low probabilty, yes. Zero probabillty, no...You'll have to either fight the cruise with the brake until it gives up and releases, or you'll have to hit its off button, or cycle the key...If you've used the brown wire off the signalling fuse for your 12 volts, the cruise won't set if the fuse is blown (or pulled.)...
I didn't see where Shawn said what circuit he used to power the AVCC red wire.

On the Gen II it is a lot of work and takes a lot of wire to connect to the Signaling circuit up front. Connecting to the Blue/Red wire (Hazard) in the same connector with the brake wire would be a whole lot easier. It does bring into play the low percentage chance of the Signaling fuse blowing while the cruise is set. I think I'd take that chance.

Pulling in the clutch is another way to shut off the AVCC and immediately uncouple the AVCC from controlling the rear wheel.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Switched source makes the cruise work, but if your signalling fuse is blown, it will NOT disengage with the brake lights, because 12 volts will never appear at the purple wire...As you've got it wired, with a switched source to the red wire, the cruise works fine, as you've discovered. If the signalling fuse is blown (no horn, no brake lights, no release on the glove box) then the cruise never sees brake lights, and it will not disengage on the brakes. Low probabilty, yes. Zero probabillty, no...You'll have to either fight the cruise with the brake until it gives up and releases, or you'll have to hit its off button, or cycle the key...If you've used the brown wire off the signalling fuse for your 12 volts, the cruise won't set if the fuse is blown (or pulled.)...
I didn't see where Shawn said what circuit he used to power the AVCC red wire.

On the Gen II it is a lot of work and takes a lot of wire to connect to the Signaling circuit up front. Connecting to the Blue/Red wire (Hazard) in the same connector with the brake wire would be a whole lot easier. It does bring into play the low percentage chance of the Signaling fuse blowing while the cruise is set. I think I'd take that chance.

Pulling in the clutch is another way to shut off the AVCC and immediately uncouple the AVCC from controlling the rear wheel.
I tied in to a switched power source at my fuse block. Sounds like I need to tie in to the Blue/Red wire at some point this winter (when I clean up the wiring) - I assume it is 12 volts.

I definitely appreciate you pointing out the risk wfooshee and I will attempt to mitigate that risk.

This is very educational guys - thanks!

Congratulations on getting the install done and getting it functional. Reward yourself with a long ride :)
Heading up to Joplin tomorrow to see my son - round trip about 210 miles. Weather mid to high 70s.... sweet...

 
Ionbeam is correct in pointing out that grabbing the clutch disengages the cruise (fractions-of-a-second) instantly, as the servo senses the unresisted rise in RPM and correctly deduces no thrust. If clutching is a good "WHOA!!!" reflex for you, then you're OK with another switched source, the cruise will disengage.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Also, FWIW, I noticed that it was pretty darn easy to crank back the throttle against the AVCC Servo, inadvertently for the most part. And when the AVCC sensed it was losing the battle it would drop out anyway.

In fact, it was one of the "features" of the AVCC I liked the least, while I had it. If I had set the cruise for a particular speed and was leaning on the bars at all, when it came to any hills I had to be certain to get my weight off the bars to allow the servo to crank up the throttle to maintain speed. To avoid that I ended up riding with my hand resting on the bar end or the switch housing, neither of which is optimum.

I briefly contemplated disconnecting the the throttle return cable and running with only one throttle cable. This would have eliminated this problem entirely as the AVCC would be free to crank up more throttle from whatever position my hand was at. I later decided that a cruise control was just not all that important for me, as I seldom actually ride on the interstate.

 
I don't hold the grip that tightly, or my hand cramps.

Wait, that's why I got the cruise in the first place, so I wouldn't have to hold the grip that tightly!!!!

:D

 
I don't either. It was just my hand resting on the grip that did it. Even without my upper body weight.

But I'm betting the fact that I usually ride with a cramp-buster may have some bearing...

 
Different bikes must behave differently. With 3 ports tapped, using a Goldwing gas filter for a vacuum accumulator, I was concerned with breaking the throttle cable when trying to move the throttle against the AVCC
shrug.gif
The AVCC was IN COMMAND and very (very) strongly resisted my throttle tube commands.

 
Cool, glad you got it working. I'll be connecting mine up soon. I've been working on the fuse box install and all the other electrical farkles then I'll finish up the cruise.

 
When I was trying to figure out why my AVCC was flaky I tried to test the resistance to throttle return by fighting the AVCC. My AVCC was so robust that I just gave up before I broke something.

Oh yeh, I think I have the record for the longest time for a successful AVCC install. Maybe a year+ from 1st try to "eurika, I found it."

 
Cool, glad you got it working. I'll be connecting mine up soon. I've been working on the fuse box install and all the other electrical farkles then I'll finish up the cruise.
Roger,

I am sure you will no problems - I used them all up!

Hopefully, you can learn from my stumbles... When you ask for help be prepared - it comes from all directions - these guys are great!

 
Different bikes must behave differently. With 3 ports tapped, using a Goldwing gas filter for a vacuum accumulator, I was concerned with breaking the throttle cable when trying to move the throttle against the AVCC
shrug.gif
The AVCC was IN COMMAND and very (very) strongly resisted my throttle tube commands.
I tried that with mine this evening. Was NOT successful in disengaging by trying to close the throttle. Vacuum sucks, huh?

But grabbed the clutch and was coasting at idle in milliseconds.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hmmm... sure sound like mine was an anomaly then.

Damn. And that was one of the main reason I ditched it. I just thought "they all do that." :glare:

Oh well, I'm doing fine without it. Maybe if I ever get around to taking an epic, month long cross country ride I'll put one back on... ;)

 
I still have the fast idle (~1500rpm) to work out - a local FJR buddy came by and we did a TBS, but we couldn't get the idle down. Don't think it is a vacuum leak as the idle is pretty smooth. More reading on that tonight.
Ok, the high idle is gone!

Thanks to Roy E and some one else who suggested checking to make sure the tang was actually resting on the stop vs. something holding it up a bit.

Turned out that loop-thingee that holds the ball chain was preventing the tang from returning all the way down - backed off the nut some and now all is well! I would like to stick a nylon space/washer in there sometime, but couldn't find one locally - besides, it is so much fun taking the tank and stuff off... <_<

Anyways, the cruise works great - took a 250 mile ride yesterday to see my son and fought a really strong crosswind almost all the way there and back. No problems with the crosswind or hills.... SWEET!

 
Cool, glad you got it working. I'll be connecting mine up soon. I've been working on the fuse box install and all the other electrical farkles then I'll finish up the cruise.
Roger,

I am sure you will no problems - I used them all up!

Hopefully, you can learn from my stumbles... When you ask for help be prepared - it comes from all directions - these guys are great!
I've done two of these so far one on an '01 Connie and the other on my Wee. They both worked great (actually I took it off the Connie when I sold it and put it on the Wee).

I'm about bushed after this fuse box install though. I can only work on it an hour or so a day so it's taking too long.

I'm going to finish up the fuse box tomorrow and do the cruise sometime this winter.

 
I would say it was tieing in the red wire from the servo (that requires 12 volts) to the brown wire in the brake harness where the yellow wire is also (that brown wire had very little voltage and as I finally discovered yesterday was in fact the lef turn signal wire!).
wow, powering the AVCC with the turn signal wire...you've just discovered the method of the new mechanical vehicle rodeo...the wire a bike like that and you ride it as a bucking bronco with the cruise set

 
I would say it was tieing in the red wire from the servo (that requires 12 volts) to the brown wire in the brake harness where the yellow wire is also (that brown wire had very little voltage and as I finally discovered yesterday was in fact the lef turn signal wire!).
wow, powering the AVCC with the turn signal wire...you've just discovered the method of the new mechanical vehicle rodeo...the wire a bike like that and you ride it as a bucking bronco with the cruise set


Fortunately the cruise never would engage Patriot.... But yeah, it might have been interesting... ;)

 
I would say it was tieing in the red wire from the servo (that requires 12 volts) to the brown wire in the brake harness where the yellow wire is also (that brown wire had very little voltage and as I finally discovered yesterday was in fact the lef turn signal wire!).
wow, powering the AVCC with the turn signal wire...you've just discovered the method of the new mechanical vehicle rodeo...the wire a bike like that and you ride it as a bucking bronco with the cruise set
Put the bike in first and set the cruise at 30-35. Makes for an interesting ride. :)

 
Boy I am grateful for all the threads on the Audiovox Cruise Control install, too bad they are spead all over the place.

I started mine yesterday and for everyone out there worried about the fuel rail removal, it was a piece of cake, but

now that I have everything laid out and look at all the wires I am wondering "What have I gotten myself into?"

Yikes :blink:

When I am done, I am thinking of taking all the information out there and putting it into one place, maybe a PDF manual,

so someone who want's to do an install will have everything in one spot.

If I ever get done....

Step 1. Get an ample supply of you favorite adult beverage and chill.

Step 2. Drink.

Step 3.......and so on.

 
Top