Issues With 600 Mile Oil Change

[Lauden]

Got the '05 last Wednesday. Put 600+ miles on her by Sunday. Woke up monday morning bright and early planning to change the oil and final drive fluid.

Final drive was a breeze and closed it up ith the proper 17ft/lbs torque.

Went to remove the oil drain bolt, it wouldn't budge. (Yes I was spinning it in the proper direction :bleh: ) Put a breaker bar on the ratchet and finally popped it loose. Out comes the plug and the oil into the drain pan. Once drained and filter removed and replaced, wiped of the plug and reinserted. Set the torque wrench for 31 ft/lbs as the manual stated.

The plug never grabbed, just continued to spin. Ruh Roh Leroy. Having done dozens of oil changes, I began to get a sick feeling in my stomach. Backed the plug out and inspected. Found threads all around the bolt. D@mn!!!! It never got anywhere near 31 ft/lbs. Regardless, the plug was now useless.

Called the Yammie dealer knowing full well they were going to blame me. Heck I was even blaming myself even though I knew I had done it right. I'm assuming the plug was originall installed with too much torque or cross threaded. The dealer was actually pretty decent about it. Said he would call Yamaha Warranty since the bike was too new and the paperwork probably wasn't in the system yet.

Called me back today and said Yammie was going to cover the repairs! He did use the word 'Goodwill' though :eh: They are going to pick up the bike today, and overnight a new pan. Hopefully I'll be back on the road this Friday.

That's great service! I been riding cycles for 20+ years, including Harleys, but this was above and beyond any service I received in the past.

~ Lauden

 

[radman]

This has happened over and over and over again. Many have stripped the plug trying to get it to the recommended torque, when half that, or just tight, is more than sufficient. It's a drain plug, it doesn't hold the head on from the bottom of the motor. Mine was also very tight on the first drop, but if it had been stripped from the factory, you most likely would have seen the threads upon the initial removal.

 

[FJReady]

Yup, I think they have torque issues at the Yamaha factory. My drain plug was rediculously tight too. I was sure something bad was about to happen when I kept yanking on my wrench(no jokes please) and nothing happened. But one final grunt and she let loose. I've changed the oil several times now; apparently no long term effects from the original overtighteneing at the factory.

Compare that to my first spark plug change where I felt the plugs were barely more than finger tight.

What kind of surprises are in store for my first tire change thats just around the corner?

Lauden, Sorry to here about you having to have your brand new bike torn into. Hope the guys with tools are operating at 100% when they're in there. Good luck.

 

[escapefjrtist]

@FJReady

I just did my first front (and rear) tire changes this weekend w/o any problems. Torque values all seemed within specs. Mine must have been a mid-week bike.... Have the proper tools available and she'll come apart easily and actually go back together faster....

--G

 

[FJRMGM]

When I picked up my new FJR last October, before I drove it off, I asked the mechanic to break the oil drain plug loose and then re-tighten it ---just in case it was too tight from the factory.

It wasn't and the mechanic thought it was a strange request until I told him the horror stories of stripped plugs.

 

[comleader]

I didn't have any issues with the either the oil drain plug or the rear end plug. Both were tight (probably not to Yamaha's own specs) but not tight enough to cause a problem. I did however have a major issue with the oil filter. Almost had to take it back to the dealer, but managed to get it off with a strap wrench.

Had the same issue with my 2005 STI's oil filter. Dealer had to take that one off.

What is it with the Japanese and not following their published torque specs?

 

[BrunDog]

I agree with radman. The bolt just needs to stay put. I always use a new crush washer on and torque 10-20% less than spec.

I'd rather lose it and spill oil all over the road than strip that sucker out (assuming I see the light come on soon enough!!)

Also, a trick to remove a sticky filter are to use chanel locks, crush the filter can slightly to create flats then go for it. Another is to carefully drive a screwdriver through it then use that as a torque bar to loosen it. Both destroy the filter, but of course it was headed for the trash anyway.

-BD

 

[ionbeam]

I had to use my BIG torque wrench to get enough leverage to move the oil drain bolt. I had the wrench set at 100 lb/ft and it still went CLICK before the bolt moved. How the heck did they get it that tight and not take out the threads? Perhaps they used a drop or few of thread locker?

What kind of surprises are in store for my first tire change thats just around the corner?

First you will wonder -- how the heck do I get to the bolts? The *#@& reflectors have to come off. Next you will try to use the POS wrench in the tool kit to remove the axle. After pretzeling the tool you can email me and I will loan you a proper tool I bought both the axle wrench and steering head wrench. Finally you will wonder if the rotors have to come off to get the wheel off. They dont, but you do have to fiddle. Don't scratch the rims! LMK if you put the reflectors back on. <_<

I used to change only the rear tire and continued to run the half used front until it was whipped. At some point I changed the front and back together and was amazed at how good my motorcycle handled! Just like new.

Alan

 

[throttlejockeyTJ]

My front axle was greased. My back axel was bone dry. TJ :blink:

 

[lomaxcm]

I had to use my BIG torque wrench to get enough leverage to move the oil drain bolt.

I am not trying to be critical here but just to offer a word of advise from an old wrench. Never use a torque wrench to remove a bolt. Only use one when tightening. I have seen this done several times and it usually ruins the calibration of the torque wrench. I would seriously recommend having your torque wrench re-calibrated after using it to remove a very tight bolt as described.

Sorry if I have spoken out of place but I am just trying to save someone some grief in the future.

Ride Safe.

Marc

 

[BrunDog]

I had to use my BIG torque wrench to get enough leverage to move the oil drain bolt.

I am not trying to be critical here but just to offer a word of advise from an old wrench. Never use a torque wrench to remove a bolt. Only use one when tightening. I have seen this done several times and it usually ruins the calibration of the torque wrench. I would seriously recommend having your torque wrench re-calibrated after using it to remove a very tight bolt as described.

Sorry if I have spoken out of place but I am just trying to save someone some grief in the future.

Ride Safe.

Marc

Unless it is the old needle/scale type, I agree with you.

-BD

 

[Warchild]

What kind of surprises are in store for my first tire change thats just around the corner?

Avoid any surprises by reading these two articles:

FJRTech: ABS Front Wheel - Removal/Reinstallation

FJRTech: ABS Rear Wheel - Removing/Reinstalling