Jerkiness

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Drew

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 11, 2009
Messages
126
Reaction score
2
Location
Choctaw, OK
Coming out of a slow 90 degree turn this morning in 2nd gear and I gave her a little throttle. The bike gave me quite a jerk as the word 'smooth' doesn't seem to be in its' vocabulary. Will the G2 throttle tube help with this or does it require a Power Commander? Any tips on just living with it??

Thanks.

 
Coming out of a slow 90 degree turn this morning in 2nd gear and I gave her a little throttle. The bike gave me quite a jerk as the word 'smooth' doesn't seem to be in its' vocabulary. Will the G2 throttle tube help with this or does it require a Power Commander? Any tips on just living with it??Thanks.
Was my sentiments exactly when I first got the FJR...Have grown accustom to this quirk and now smooth. Be interested if there is a remedy thou..

Willie

 
Coming out of a slow 90 degree turn this morning in 2nd gear and I gave her a little throttle. The bike gave me quite a jerk as the word 'smooth' doesn't seem to be in its' vocabulary. Will the G2 throttle tube help with this or does it require a Power Commander? Any tips on just living with it??Thanks.
Was my sentiments exactly when I first got the FJR...Have grown accustom to this quirk and now smooth. Be interested if there is a remedy thou..

Willie

I found the search for "un-wind throttle return spring" and did it (twice). Now the jerkiness is less, and no soreness in the wrist from long rides.

 
I get the same thing in 1st and 2nd gear. I usually just use the clutch and it's nice and smooth in the friction zone.

 
G2 along with the throttle spring unwind is a start. The PC3 power commander and/or the Barbarian jumper mod may help even more. See the link in my sig line for the throttle spring unwind. Man that was a great post with pics included making it real easy to do.

 
Excerpted from a previous post of mine, since it is recycled the answer isn't in 100% context of the OP's questions:

The '06/'07 share the eccentric throttle pulley that causes the rate of RPM change to be non-linear, which is fixed by a G2 throttle tube. The '06/'07 were included in the ECU recall for altitude drivability issues. The '06 instrument panels on some early bikes were recalled for an instant MPG readout stuck at 17 mpg.

Separate from the non-linear throttle response is abrupt power delivery. Some bikes are worse than others, some riders are more sensitive than others. This is remediated for sure with a PCIII. Some people claim that changing the CO setting helped them. Search out the Barbarian Jumper that enables the CO settings to be adjusted.

No FJR has to have any of these modifications done or parts added, but when required the G2 throttle tube, a PCIII and perhaps unwinding the throttle spring one turn are sure fixes.

=====================

Surging: At a steady throttle, light engine load, the engine speed varies a small amount which feels like the throttle is being opened and closed a tiny amount even though it is being held steady. Sometimes fixed by CO adjustments, fixed with a PCIII.

Abrupt power delivery: When the throttle is closed the engine goes into a decel FI routine where fuel injection is basically turned off, then when power is asked for again there may be small hesitation without response as the throttle is rolled on, then suddenly you get all the throttle that you dialed up. Helped/fixed by a PCIII

Abrupt Throttle Response II: The Gen II throttle cam is eccentric (not round) causing the throttle to respond in greater proportion than what the operator intended. The steep ramp of the throttle cam is right around the 3k rpm range. A second issue are the gorilla springs on the throttle pulley making it very tiring to use and makes fine throttle control difficult. A G2 throttle tube & cam will neutralize the eccentric throttle cam. Some people acknowledge the risks and partially unwind the throttle springs to lighten up response.

Drive line lash: Free play between the engine output shaft and the rear wheel. With the bike on the center stand, engine off, in gear, rotate the rear wheel and note how much free rotation it has. This could possibly cause the same feel as abrupt power delivery and/or surging. No fix, not proven to be an issue.

Altitude sickness: Total lack of throttle response, bogging, very poor drivability. Often initiated by rapid altitude change, often reset back to normal operation by cycling the key off/on. ECU recall.

Buzz: Rapid mechanical vibrations, usually felt in the bars and pegs first and as it gets stronger the frame & tank. There is a common rpm range someplace between 4k rpm and 6k rpm. It is not unusual for some bikes to buzz at one rpm and another bike at a different rpm but the buzz is almost always in a range that you can pass through and get smooth operation again.

Buzz can usually be all but eliminated with a good throttle body sync (TBS). There are a lot of other tweaks, like fuel management via a Power Commander III that can be done to help too. Sometimes loosening the engine mounting bolts and retightening will get stubborn buzz to quit. Don’t do the engine bolts without the service manual’s specific order. Bar end weights and Grip Puppies are a way to manage residual buzz.

 
I too have an '07 and they are supposed to be among the jerkiest of the group. My bike has never been real bad, but within about 1,000 miles, I began to really feel it. I took some of the slack out of the throttle cable and that fixed most of it.

FWIW, I never had to unwind my throttle spring, and it feels about like the bikes that have had theirs undone. I donno if the dealer unwound it before I bought it or if it is just one of those some bikes do it-some bikes don't deal.

The only time the throttle was an issue was when I rode tight twisties and was trying to come out of tight switchbacks in 1st gear. It was upsetting the suspension way too much, so now I run them in 2nd gear and the problem is mostly solved. One of these days I will get a PC-V and clear it up all the way.

Good luck.

 
I've noticed something since I had the ticking fixed on my firebreathing Gen1.

Before the tick fix I find the 'jerkiness' at low speed small throttle openings - think parking lot manuevers - a very mild annoyance. Nothing a little clutch couldn't take care of handily. In fact, I've been heard to comment that the FJR is one of the easiest bikes to ride slow I've ever owend. Since the tick fix, it greatly magnified. Especially when hot. When its hot it become almost snorty in how it responds to throttle.

Think I might get in there and check the cleanliness of the butterflies in the throttle tubes (carbon build up would have the same affect on my old 1600 Kawi). I guess first things first and check the TPS..

Still, I thought it odd that it really got much worse after the tick fix.

 
My bike does this too. Did the spring and the G2 tube, still a bit jerky but with 25K on the Odo I have gotten used to it.

 
Some of my best friends tell me I'll never get rid of my jerkiness.

As for the Feej....I've just gotten used to it. My Vulcan had the same issue. Played around with the spring some. Also use the clutch a bit more and it seems fine.

 
Also adding a cramp buster helps a little so you can loosen your grip a little and give your hand a rest. I would like to get a PC3 but it's just not in the budget right now.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
For what it's worth....:

My 08 is horribly jerky. When connected to a Carbtune, I noticed that during the off idle jerk, cylinder #1 took a huge dive where as the other 3 stayed pretty constant. I found that I could completely eliminate the jerkiness if I sent Cylinder #1 sky high with respect to the other cylinders.

When time permits, my intention is to play around with the CO setting of just Cylinder #1 and see if I can't eliminate the jerkiness while keeping all cylinders balanced.

 
This issue drove me nuts on my '07.

Very early on I put the PCIII (O2 sensor disconnected) and Holeshots on it. The bike had a terrible time with throttle snatch like you describe. Around 25,000 miles I downloaded Wally's Smoothness Map to the PCIII and the bike rides like a dream! It now has 40,000 miles on it and it runs the best it ever has.

The throttle is now very smooth and predictable.

 
PC3 is a very good option to smooth out throttle jerkiness, but PC V cost about the same and has more features, especially if you fit the Autotune kit

Andy

 
Top