KrZy8 start n' stop
- Thread starter dcarver
- Start date
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beemerdons
Certifiable Old Fart
Nasty and Snarky Comment Deleted, JSNS!Well, if I did that every time...
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
What actually happened was that I made a post that I thought was helpful to the OP. Unfortunately, having posted it, I realised that my facts were wrong.Nasty and Snarky Comment Deleted, JSNS!Well, if I did that every time...
Since I hate to admit to making mistakes, I decided to reduce my embarrassment factor by deleting what I had written. That way, no one would ever know I'd been in error.
Now everyone knows.
B*gg*r.
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Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
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Don
If you have an intermittent left push button on the gage pod that reacts favourably to the windshield being raised up, I would suggest that the front sub harness needs looking at. May be the connector to the gage pod above/behind the tach. Removing the upper faring plastics/headlight nacelle isn't that much more of a job (4 screws and it's off), and it will expose this front sub harness in all of its glory. You may see the ghost of Bambi doing a number on it.
Happy hunting.
Brodie
ps... I've had to replace that 70 amp relay on my ignition relay harness too. They don't last forever.
If you have an intermittent left push button on the gage pod that reacts favourably to the windshield being raised up, I would suggest that the front sub harness needs looking at. May be the connector to the gage pod above/behind the tach. Removing the upper faring plastics/headlight nacelle isn't that much more of a job (4 screws and it's off), and it will expose this front sub harness in all of its glory. You may see the ghost of Bambi doing a number on it.
Happy hunting.
Brodie
ps... I've had to replace that 70 amp relay on my ignition relay harness too. They don't last forever.
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dcarver
Well-known member
I agree mi amigo. Going further into it next week.DonIf you have an intermittent left push button on the gage pod that reacts favourably to the windshield being raised up, I would suggest that the front sub harness needs looking at. May be the connector to the gage pod above/behind the tach. Removing the upper faring plastics/headlight nacelle isn't that much more of a job (4 screws and it's off), and it will expose this front sub harness in all of its glory. You may see the ghost of Bambi doing a number on it.
Happy hunting.
Brodie
ps... I've had to replace that 70 amp relay on my ignition relay harness too. They don't last forever.
weekend rider
Well-known member
Check the voltage to the fuel pump it requires a min. of 12.4 volts. You charged your battery and worked for a while and then will not work. Need new battery and check voltage to the fuel pump while cranking
dcarver
Well-known member
Took a detour and looked at charging circuit voltages.
Next step - pull the nose and look for loose or corroded connections.... e.g. DIAG mode not available until windshield moved..
- ~30 VAC across alternator leads A B C
- 15vdc at RR direct idling
- 13.9 - 14.0 vdc at battery idling with krista's on
Next step - pull the nose and look for loose or corroded connections.... e.g. DIAG mode not available until windshield moved..
New battery already installed, weekend rider. She has started every time now... but I'm going to continue on and pull the nose and look... I've not been in there and who knows what those connections look like. Recall the DIAG mode wasn't available until I raised the windscreen. The batter drops to 11.2 when cranking as measured at battery.
dcarver
Well-known member
I fixed it good
Cleaned and lubed ECU connector and other connectors in the general area.
Now it won't start.
Spins good, no fire.
WOT = nothing.,
Sigh.
Cleaned and lubed ECU connector and other connectors in the general area.
Now it won't start.
Spins good, no fire.
WOT = nothing.,
Sigh.
yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
As a nuclear technician you should know that you broke the main rule. When it works don't "fix" it.
Just exactly how many thumbs do you have anyways?
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RossKean
Well-known member
Got spark?
If not, look for a cause.
If you have spark (and its not flooded) then its fuel (or lack thereof).
Pull a plug and see if its wet (flooded). Crank with the plug grounded and see if it sparks.
Injectors firing (from diagnostic)?
Fuel pump test?
Fuel pressure on rail test?
Has to be something simple.
Good luck!
Edit: I know that you know all of this. I think you're just trying to build suspense!
With all the work you have put into it, it had better make the 200,000 miles (and then some)!
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HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Carver, the best way to check the spark is to connect the plug, stick it down the front of your pants (or hold onto it) and hit the start button. You will know if there is spark, immediately.
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wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
Where do you think the term "********" came from?????
Fontanaman
Robin Trower
I have been following this thread to learn the solution to the problem. I am pulling for Carver to get KrZy8 going again!
Donal
Well-known member
When you say "pulling for Carver" what does that mean exactly?
I know what it infers over here but just wondering...................
yamafitter
Reigning NERDS Granite Lane Gold Medalist
beemerdons
Certifiable Old Fart
I still believe that our Amigo 'Zilla from Neuvo Mexico has the best solution yet, ese: "Carver, the best way to check the spark is to connect the plug, stick it down your pants (or hold onto it) and hit the start button. You will know if there is spark immediately." You know DC will do this!
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mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
This is a bit off topic, but it is Friday ...
Anyway, Donal, whose post preceded yamafitter's remark, comes from Holt, a village in Norfolk. Now, this area has something of the characteristics of some of the southern states of the U.S., where inbreeding is the norm. So Donal's opinions are to be viewed as not necessarily those of the rest of the UK.
Hmm. Just remembered. I was born in Norwich, which is a town in Norfolk, only 20 miles away. Got to consider that. Think I'll get my banjo out and strum a little.
No need to shout, I'm aware of his slight over-emphasis of our characteristics.
Anyway, Donal, whose post preceded yamafitter's remark, comes from Holt, a village in Norfolk. Now, this area has something of the characteristics of some of the southern states of the U.S., where inbreeding is the norm. So Donal's opinions are to be viewed as not necessarily those of the rest of the UK.
Hmm. Just remembered. I was born in Norwich, which is a town in Norfolk, only 20 miles away. Got to consider that. Think I'll get my banjo out and strum a little.
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dcarver
Well-known member
Hey, the reactor has to start and stop on command, yes? Gees, BillieBob, how long has it been since you've seen a neutron?
You know what, I'm gonna do it, just to prove your theory. I'll post video when done.
Hey now, it's good to know somebodies pulling for me!
....and now back to the stuff.
SHE RUNS!
Found a loose spider connection to the Brodie harness, the spider near the ECU. And yes, I had cleaned and lubed it while working the ECU connector. So, bad tech, no bone. I'm gonna fire that freaking ***** or hook up a spark plug to the sack in search of sparkage.
It has started every time the last12 or times.. not sure if it's really fixed as I don't have a smoking gun. It has a leaky fork seal so she'll be on the lift for a bit anyway. The lowers are off, I'll inspect all those connectors while contemplating pulling the nose to get to the connections coming from the instrument panel.
Remember I still can't get to the CO screen on the panel, and couldn't get to the DIAG screen until the windscreen was raised.
Hmmm........ check the pins in the ECM connector as well as the ECM socket - they can drift back and lose contact. The inability to access the CO screen makes me think this.
Or there might be a dirt clod lodged in there from that road to your house.....also check for errant deer hairs.
Or there might be a dirt clod lodged in there from that road to your house.....also check for errant deer hairs.
beemerdons
Certifiable Old Fart
This is why kaitsdad is smartest man on FJR Forum, next to Bustanut joker-RadioHowie-odot. Shocked Hal didn't mention a loose nut at the handlebars!Hmmm........ check the pins in the ECM connector as well as the ECM socket - they can drift back and lose contact. The inability to access the CO screen makes me think this.
Or there might be a dirt clod lodged in there from that road to your house.....also check for errant deer hairs.
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