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That's a good question. I too would be interested to see how folks are packing their side cases.

Regarding the switch from a Wee to a FJR. I just made the switch and could not be happier. And I have owned three Wee's (2008, 2009, and 2011). Shortly after buying my 2011 Wee I realised what I really wanted was a SportTour bike. All in one day I test rode a 2011 R1200RT for about an hour and two 2005 FJR's on a three hour ride.

By the time I got done riding the FJR's I was sold on them. Told my wife I decided not to spend 21K on the BMW (she was delighted) but I wanted to get an FJR and sell my Wee with less that 800 miles on it. Yes you read that right. I liked the FJR so much that I was willing to take the loss on the Wee and I went out and bought a left over 2010 FJR a week later.

Now if I can just find someone to buy the Wee before winter sets in.

Jon...

 
Caribou Cases makes mounts for most of the adventure/sport bikes to mount their customized Pelican boxes. At their site is a PDF showing their thoughts on packing side-loading cases to help keep the contents from tumbling all over the place.

They use the scenario of camping equipment, but you'll get the idea. Same procedures should apply to any make of side-loading case- Givi, H/B, Pelican, etc.

I still like top-loading cases better.

https://cariboucases.com/store/data/downloads/How%20To%20Pack.pdf

 
I'll have to add a top case but I'm also thinking I may need Larger sidecases too. The Yamaha oem cases are surely nice looking, perhaps more aerodynamically sound. I won't spend much time above 90mph when touring but occasionally, bladder demanded jaunts are required.

 
I've found the factory side cases, although side loading, will hold a lot of stuff. At least as much as my pelican 1520's do. Those and a Givi top case (V46, E52, or E55) should give you a lot of storage on the bike.

Since the factory side cases are side loading, if you get a used one, do your best to make sure the seller includes the liners/bags that should have come with the cases. It will make things a lot easier.

Jon...

 
Perfect. The bag liners are included in the deal. What else should come with the bike besides the cases and liners? Tool kit? Anything else? The bike as 700.00 seat on it . . . That pops right off if you pull it. How do you secure a Sargeant seat?

Thanks guys/gals.

 
The seat should lock down. The back of the rider's seat has a piece that slides into a latch. The latch is unlocked by the key on the left side of the bike. The latch is in the rail that goes across the subframe under the seat, the same rail that hold the front of the passenger seat.

 
The seat should lock down. The back of the rider's seat has a piece that slides into a latch. The latch is unlocked by the key on the left side of the bike. The latch is in the rail that goes across the subframe under the seat, the same rail that hold the front of the passenger seat.

The after market Sargeant seat should lock down? The dealer has he OEm seat as well.

The seat should lock down. The back of the rider's seat has a piece that slides into a latch. The latch is unlocked by the key on the left side of the bike. The latch is in the rail that goes across the subframe under the seat, the same rail that hold the front of the passenger seat.

The after market Sargeant seat should lock down? The dealer has the OEm seat as well.

 
Well, I've never seen one, but not locking it down would leave an awful lot of stuff open to whoever wanted to have a look around in there. If it doesn't lock down wither the latch piece is broken or doesn't fit, or the bike's lock assembly is broken.

I've not seen any seat that didn't fit that latch, stock or aftermarket.

 
Becides the liners the bikes comes with three locks for the luggage. Two get used on the side cases and the third is for the factory trunk. If there is no factory top case (trunk) then the lock is still provided. The locks are all keyed alike with the ignition.

Regarding the seat, on my 2010 the key releases the passenger seat and then I flip a lever under the back side of the rider seat to release it. I think that the gen-1 bikes release the rider seat with the key but I could be wrong. Either way. I agree you should not be able to just lift the off the bike without the key.

Jon...

Jon...

 
Congrats on the bike!!!!

I love the blue on the 2005's by the way. If I was to repaint my bike it would probably be that color.

Enjoy your new ride and remember the pegs will scrape sooned on the FJR than the V-Strom if you're into doing that sort of thing. The FJR was the first bike I felt my boot scrape the pavement on. And I've been riding for almost 40 years.

Jon...

 
Well done!

Did you get the seat figured out? The Sargent will lock into position just like the OEM rider's section does. It does on my bike (2010). And if your legs are long enough, try the higher seat position, too. That bit of boost gives your knees just a little more of an open angle which can be quite nice on long rides, if your knees are prone to getting achy. Of course it does put you up higher into the air stream, and the ergo's to the handlebars change a bit, but worth the experimentation.

 
Well done!

Did you get the seat figured out? The Sargent will lock into position just like the OEM rider's section does. It does on my bike (2010). And if your legs are long enough, try the higher seat position, too. That bit of boost gives your knees just a little more of an open angle which can be quite nice on long rides, if your knees are prone to getting achy. Of course it does put you up higher into the air stream, and the ergo's to the handlebars change a bit, but worth the experimentation.
Yes. The seat locks. Whew !That would've sucked. But its not comfortable. The seast is comfortable to sit on but I have to lean too much forward PLUS I slide forward in the seat so much so that the seast become uncomfortable. I'm gonna have to get bar risers or a new seat.

 
Yes. The seat locks. Whew !That would've sucked. But its not comfortable. The seast is comfortable to sit on but I have to lean too much forward PLUS I slide forward in the seat so much so that the seat becomes uncomfortable. I'm gonna have to get bar risers or a new seat.
I seem to remember something about the seller (dealer) also having a stock seat for the bike. If so did you give that a try? Or am I confusing you with someone else?

Jon...

 
nice looking 05 some sliders might help keep it that way. I learned the hard way.nice bike enjoy

 
You're sliding forward on the seat while riding? Hmmm, I wonder what's causing that? Did they Armour All the seat for the sales floor? I will say, though, that when I've washed my riding pants (Aerostich Darien pants) with the special detergents made for these materials, then also follow-up the washing with a water resistant fabric treatment, the butt of the pants were slicker than pre-washing, and the result was sliding around on the seat for the first few rides after washing. But that was on a different bike, well, my old VStrom that was outfitted with a Sargent.

As for leaning forward, I, too, need to come up more. I've installed a set of riser blocks which help a bit, but I need to get up more. Now I'm planning on the Helibar route- expensive, but should help bring me backward and up more than the simple riser blocks. And Helibar is also developing a new style of a complete handlebar system, with wide ranging adjustment for rise, pull-back, wrist angle, and even width. It's now available for the Concours 14, and soon to be released for the FJR and ST1300. $$. See here- https://www.helibars.com/product/new-multi-adjustable-handlebars-c14 And the standard Helibar replacement triple clamp system- https://www.helibars.com/products-by-bike/yamaha

 
You're sliding forward on the seat while riding? Hmmm, I wonder what's causing that? Did they Armour All the seat for the sales floor? I will say, though, that when I've washed my riding pants (Aerostich Darien pants) with the special detergents made for these materials, then also follow-up the washing with a water resistant fabric treatment, the butt of the pants were slicker than pre-washing, and the result was sliding around on the seat for the first few rides after washing. But that was on a different bike, well, my old VStrom that was outfitted with a Sargent.

As for leaning forward, I, too, need to come up more. I've installed a set of riser blocks which help a bit, but I need to get up more. Now I'm planning on the Helibar route- expensive, but should help bring me backward and up more than the simple riser blocks. And Helibar is also developing a new style of a complete handlebar system, with wide ranging adjustment for rise, pull-back, wrist angle, and even width. It's now available for the Concours 14, and soon to be released for the FJR and ST1300. $$. See here- https://www.helibars.com/product/new-multi-adjustable-handlebars-c14 And the standard Helibar replacement triple clamp system- https://www.helibars.com/products-by-bike/yamaha

Actually you raise a valid point. I haven't ridden with my riding pants only jeans or khakis. Just riding to work. I'll bet that would help. But, Still sitting on the bike on a flat surface, I feel as if I'm falling towards the handle bars. I'd rather be TOTALLY relaxed in an upright position, with the option to lean in if I want to be more aggressive.

Here is a great example of how the FJR fits me. My arms look just like this guys and my err 'stuff' is about that close to the tank. I can get a little flex in my elbows if I hug that tank tight. My seat fits about like this guys. He's got a few inches to go to be able to relax against the lip on his seat. I want to be bale to sit back against the lip. They are asking a killing for these new handlebars.

https://www.helibars.com/video-gallery/c14-stock-bike-customer-wants

 
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