Lessons Learned on changing the CCT

[yamafitter]

oops, wrong button.

 

[RaYzerman19]

If you use a short, (meaning cut off) 8 mm wrench, or short ignition wrench, you can swing it a whole lot more from below and you'll be much happier and faster. The idea of cutting slots in the bolts is so you can spin them in without using a wrench, then the last little bit is simply tightening them up with the wrench. There shouldn't be a next time, but if there is, you'll thank yourself immensely and have time for an extra beer.

 

[FJR Flyer]

I read in a different thread that someone took off the clutch cover and had more room to swing the 8mm wrench when attempting to remove the bolt closest to the frame. If someone shows up in the Spring for Tech Day IV looking for a CCT change we will find out if this is true.

I used tweezers to position the bolts so there was less chance of losing a bolt down into the access hole in the frame. That being said, the magnet will work just as well for the one bolt in question saving having to cut the slot in that bolt. I do not believe however that using a magnet to start the two CCT mounting bolts would work as well.

I read about the clutch cover after the fact, while looking for this thread.

I agree, the magnet will only work for the one bolt. I could get my fingers down the to start the mounting bolts. The mounting bolt threads are a little recessed, so you can at least get the bolt in the hole, while the adjustment hole bolts has the threads all the way to the end, so it was hard to get the bolt lined up and started. The magnet solved that problem.

I also put masking tape over the frame recess (another lesson learned the hard way) and poked the magnet thru it before positioning the bolt.

Thanks again. As usual, this forum provides all the info needed.

 

[TomInPA]

I finally got a garage pass and had free time today to change out the CCT. I've had the new blue dot unit and these instructions printed out and sitting on the workbench for months. This post was invaluable. I did a couple things different and found a few work arounds.

I had four different 8 mm wrenches, including a box ratchet, but still had trouble with the bolt next to the frame. As I have a bunch of old SAE tools that were my uncles, I found that 5/16" ignition wrenches also fit the 8 mm bolt. Used at least four of those, too. Saved my butt and allowed me to remove that bolt.

Got the new CCT installed and was installing the adjustment access bolt, thinking i was home free. Didn't think it would be a problem until it rolled off my fingers and went into the frame recess. Of course I couldn't find my magnet on a stick. Ran down to the hardware store and got a new magnet on a stick. This one is a small diameter magnet on a telescoping rod. Retrieved the bolt, then realized I could hold the bolt with the magnet, insert it through the frame access hole and easily thread the bolt into the CCT. No slot cutting of the bolt required!

The biggest pain was cleaning the old gasket off the cam chain cover and the engine. Also, it was a bit tricky reinstalling the long pin that came off with the cover. Had to maneuver the plastic chain guide around until I could get the pin inserted.

Got it all back together and running and had enough time to change the oil and filter and clean up the bike a bit.

With the clutch cover off, the lower bolt was not an issue, and it made removing the old CCT and installing the new one a breeze for my fat fingers. I used the Bluesman 8mm ratchet wrench with no problem or modifications. To install the access bolt on the end of the CCT I used some mother's clay compound in a 12mm shallow socket and stuck the bolt into that, then attached the socket to the end of a flexible shaft driver. It threadded right in. Overall the CCT is a breeze as long as the chain is secured with a couple sockets to keep out the slack. You're going to love the difference in the sound of the motor without the chain slap.

 

[Fred W]

I do not remember it being all that much of a problem to get those bolts back in. Either I was really lucky or else I am a superior mechanic, so it was probably the former.

What I generally use in these kinds of circumstances, and did in this case too, is a long nosed, curved jaw roach clip pair of hemostats.

Clip the "jaws" (lightly) up under the head of the bolt, so any thread buggery is in a non important area. Hold in place and "drive her home" (that's what she said).

 

[Bustanut joker]

The Owosso way!!! I feel pretty proud right now!! A warm kinda damp feeling in me loins..

Oh wait I pissed meself.

Nevermind

*slinks out*

 

[Ratman]

Monday: decided I needed to put my asked at CCT in, looked at all the pages. Asked my dealer what his cost would be, 4.5 hours at $110.00 / hr.

Yep, I’m doing it myself. There was some thought of what if a butcher this job? But I went full steam ahead.

Started by removing the cowling? No problem came right off, still didn’t see the part I was looking for though, lifted the fuel tank, removed some rubber air dams and there it was? Next went to the chain cover where I seen the cable tie cinched up around the cam chain, with that done on the CCT.

It looks quite tight in there for my fat finger? Top bolt is right there, the bottom bolt wow! With the tools I had I gave it a try, wasn’t going to happen. Looks like a run to Sears. Having found the 8mm swivel that the other more accomplish folks already had. Boy now that I have this little guy I can knock this out in no time.Home with new swivel in hand, back to my job at hand.

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

Off back to the store and picked up a long magnet and one of those three finger grabbers. Back home I go. Worked on getting the socket out from inside the frame for another half hour, but out it come.

Now I have a long extension with my swivel stuck right on the end, I move it with all the dexterity of a surgeon. I got it! I got it! Pop off it comes. Feeling quite amazed that things were going so well.

Started at 9:00 and it’s only 11:30 and I have the thing out. Shoved the new one in from the bottom as instructed, gasket on, top bolt started with some lock tight on. Bottom bolt started with the new hack saw cut right down the middle and away we go!

All in all it was quite an easy job, even for a fat finger old guy setting at home recuperating from surgery.

It was made easy by the guys that posted here earlier, thanks. The pic where great and the cutting of the bolt head superb..

I feel much more relaxed riding with a new CCT installed by me.

GC

 

[Bugnatr]

Monday: decided I needed to put my asked at CCT in, looked at all the pages. Asked my dealer what his cost would be, 4.5 hours at $110.00 / hr.

Yep, I’m doing it myself. There was some thought of what if a butcher this job? But I went full steam ahead.

Started by removing the cowling? No problem came right off, still didn’t see the part I was looking for though, lifted the fuel tank, removed some rubber air dams and there it was? Next went to the chain cover where I seen the cable tie cinched up around the cam chain, with that done on the CCT.

It looks quite tight in there for my fat finger? Top bolt is right there, the bottom bolt wow! With the tools I had I gave it a try, wasn’t going to happen. Looks like a run to Sears. Having found the 8mm swivel that the other more accomplish folks already had. Boy now that I have this little guy I can knock this out in no time.Home with new swivel in hand, back to my job at hand.

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

Off back to the store and picked up a long magnet and one of those three finger grabbers. Back home I go. Worked on getting the socket out from inside the frame for another half hour, but out it come.

Now I have a long extension with my swivel stuck right on the end, I move it with all the dexterity of a surgeon. I got it! I got it! Pop off it comes. Feeling quite amazed that things were going so well.

Started at 9:00 and it’s only 11:30 and I have the thing out. Shoved the new one in from the bottom as instructed, gasket on, top bolt started with some lock tight on. Bottom bolt started with the new hack saw cut right down the middle and away we go!

All in all it was quite an easy job, even for a fat finger old guy setting at home recuperating from surgery.

It was made easy by the guys that posted here earlier, thanks. The pic where great and the cutting of the bolt head superb..

I feel much more relaxed riding with a new CCT installed by me.

GC

You saved the big bucks AND had more tools than when you started. Win Win

 

[timk]

Got mine changed. About4 hrs. Ended up only using a 8mm craftsman wrench and a Craftsman 5/16 out of a ignition set. Sure glad bolts came out with fingers. Slotted the botom bolt only,as there was no need to do the upper. Used hemastat on all 3 bolts. The adjuster cover bolt . was the most challaging,should've slotted it. It was making noise at idle after warm. Gonna take it out AFTER I HAVE to help wifey paint a ceiling. Thanks for all the photos and tips. BTW mine is a 05 54000 miles. One more question, has anyone dared to enlarge the access hole so a 8mm socket would go right to the bolt? I know it sounds scary messing with a frame.

 

[yamafitter]

One more question, has anyone dared to enlarge the access hole so a 8mm socket would go right to the bolt? I know it sounds scary messing with a frame.

I would strongly recommend not making any modifications to the frame since there is no really valid reason for doing so. Removing metal from a stressed member of the frame is never a good idea IMHO.

 

[NBB]

I changed my CCT at tech day and a couple of tools that should be at hand include, a 8mm and 10mm 12 point narrow (thin) short box end wrenches and a 1/4 in drive flex shaft driver (long enough to go through the hole in the frame and reach the bolts) for quickly spinning out the 8mm bolts.

 

[velvet fog]

Glad to see my bookmark still finds this thread after the "upgrade".

Has anyone tried replacing the bottom bolt with an allen head or torx head bolt?

 

[Auburn]

Glad to see my bookmark still finds this thread after the "upgrade". :read:
Has anyone tried replacing the bottom bolt with an allen head or torx head bolt?

Just take a Dremel and cut a slot in the bolt head so you can turn it with a screwdriver. Torx and Allen have the same issue that you can't get on them straight on.

 

[dcarver]

The first thing I did was dropped the socket, of course it couldn’t just drop where I could see where it went, nope went right inside the frame; you know the hole where you should stick your tool through?

I use 1.5 wraps of electrical tape to keep things in place. Clean surfaces first, tape it up, all is good.

 

[FJRay]

There is more than one out there with lost sockets in the frame.

 

[supertankerm60a3]

I enlarged the frame hole. good bod or (most likely) indifferent. I drilled a 1/4" hole perpendicular to the forward, exit, side of the access hole then used the same drill bit with lateral force to cut off the sloppy flashing at the edge of it that was left over from either the casting or forging process. If the hole was cleanly made the flashing would not be there. If the flashing was not there then a 1/4" drive socket extension would fit with the angle needed to connect to the bolt that hides behind it.

I really don't see how removing 3 grams of material from the center of a beam could cause a problem in anything less stressed than an aircraft. If the FJ were all that tightly engineered the sloppy flashing would never had the sloppy flashing in the first place.

 

[velvet fog]

Just finished changing my CCT, about 3 hours including a trip to the tool store for a cheap screwdriver.

Couple of tips:

The hole in the CCT for the adjuster screw was too small for any of my screwdrivers to reach deep enough to turn the screw. I ended up buying a cheap one at Kent Tool and grinding the tip narrower.

On a gen 1, you don't need to remove the tank, lifting it is enough.

The new CCT wouldn't lock into the retracted position, I had to use the little locking tab that came with the new part. Removing it after installing the new CCT was not a problem.

The Kobalt racheting 8mm wrench I bought wouldn't fit the lower bolt because there isn't enough clearance around the bolt head for the wrench. My craftsman 8mm combo wrench worked just fine.

 

[floorman67]

Thanks so much! After reading the article while I was on vacation on my bike last week, I changed mine this afternoon. All noise is gone and no leaks! Great write up!

 

[Moosehead]

Thanks so much guys for this detailed write up. I read it several times and followed every step.

Everything went smooth and as predicted. The new CCT had much more spring pressure.

Mine was so bad it sounded like a Diesel engine at idle.

Total time was 3 hrs start to finish.

 

[FJRMGM]

lots of good tips on how to git 'er done in this thread!!