LIN3 as auxiliary brake light

[tcfjr]

We will have to agree to disagree, and that's perfectly fine. Differences of opinion is what makes life interesting.

I think a continuously repeating flash pattern is far more aggravating to someone following behind you than a quick flash then solid pattern of even the brightest LED brake light, plus that is the pattern that is prescribed by law in many jurisdictions.

To me, the faster LED strobe is more attention grabbing than a slower flash rate. The 3rd Brake flasher has some slower options, but I think the fastest is the best.

It is also what is being installed as standard equipment on many trucks and emergency vehicles with LED brake lights these days; a quick strobe flash, then solid on, each time the brakes are triggered. They must have done some sort of effectiveness studies before they settled on that. At least one would hope they did?

In California, the Vehicle Code (25251.5.c) limits the use of flashing brake lights to this kind of pattern -- no more than 4 flashes in the first 4 seconds after brakes are applied, then solid.

 

[puppychow]

Have the LIN3 on the FJR. With a modulator like what Brian described above, since I am in CA. Will add to the consensus, it is very noticeable.

 

[Top_Speed1]

I took my LIN3 to the next level, added a running light function to it. So (for the last 3 yrs I guess) it's been dual purpose! Lower output for running, full high for brake.

Parts needed (Radio Shack; if you don't have these already, and a couple of bucks total at best and I have left overs somewhere that I would be glad to give away to someone, just have NO friggen idea where they got put!).

(2) 5A Diodes, (1) 12v, 1w 500-600 ohm Resistor

(12v Running Light Feed)---------[5A Diode| ]----------[1w 12v 500-600ohm Resistor]----}------/to LED light (combined w below wire)

(12v Brake Light Feed)------------[5A Diode| ]-----------------------------------------------------}------/to LED light (combined w above wire)

Just note on wiring in the Diode, there is a striped side (denoted as | above), this is the anode and needs to be at the tail-end of the power flow. It works as a back door, basically power can't flow upwards of this and back into the other feed (circuit).

<edit> argh! after typing all that out, I figured there has to be a graphical image on this cuz... there's everything on the net, right?

I used a different resistor is all, this will effect the running lights brightness. Play with it to your liking maybe? And yes, you can go and buy this premade for outrageous bucks. Since most of my friends here are frugal, this is your method and it works perfectly!

Enjoy!

 

[Top_Speed1]

Added note: I do use a modulator to pulse the brake.

If you are using the modulator w this setup, it gets wired (the output side of the modulator) before the brake side diode. Also, it may not be quite as "dramatic" of a flash as you are not going from full on to complete off. It's still pretty good, but the added running light feature scores very high w the LIN3 unit.

 

[Nanahanman]

I took my LIN3 to the next level, added a running light function to it. So (for the last 3 yrs I guess) it's been dual purpose! Lower output for running, full high for brake.
Parts needed (Radio Shack; if you don't have these already, and a couple of bucks total at best and I have left overs somewhere that I would be glad to give away to someone, just have NO friggen idea where they got put!).

(2) 5A Diodes, (1) 12v, 1w 500-600 ohm Resistor

(12v Running Light Feed)---------[5A Diode| ]----------[1w 12v 500-600ohm Resistor]----}------/to LED light (combined w below wire)

(12v Brake Light Feed)------------[5A Diode| ]-----------------------------------------------------}------/to LED light (combined w above wire)

Just note on wiring in the Diode, there is a striped side (denoted as | above), this is the anode and needs to be at the tail-end of the power flow. It works as a back door, basically power can't flow upwards of this and back into the other feed (circuit).

<edit> argh! after typing all that out, I figured there has to be a graphical image on this cuz... there's everything on the net, right?

I used a different resistor is all, this will effect the running lights brightness. Play with it to your liking maybe? And yes, you can go and buy this premade for outrageous bucks. Since most of my friends here are frugal, this is your method and it works perfectly!

Enjoy!

Very clever!

 

[Geezer]

Thanks TopSpeed, that looks interesting.

 

[Top_Speed1]

Some Radio Shack parts work fine...

276-1103 Diodes ($0.45 ea) ...you need 2 of these. The Resistors are a dime a dozen!

OR...

Here's the pre-made-up ones on eBay . but, my frugal (el' cheap-ass) method is probably a $1

 

[DaJudge]

I've been running the LIN3/3rd Brake Flasher combo (5 distinct flashes then steady) on different bikes since 2009. I also had Hyperlites (on an FZ1) a few years back. IMO, there's no comparison. The LIN3 is way brighter. I use an inline micro switch to disable the LIN3 during group rides.

One time in recent history when I didn't have any rear brake flasher darn near got me killed. I was on a Triumph Rocket 3 that I had just purchased the day before and hadn't yet ordered the LIN3. I came within less than two feet of being smashed by an SUV driver that didn't notice me making a right turn into a parking lot. She came up from behind doing about 60-65 mph, passed me on the right (I was already on the paved shoulder) and subsequently flipped her vehicle three times.

 

[Fred W]

DaJudge is "The Man" when it comes to pulsed Whelen brake lights.

He's the guy that started it all here on the FJRForum way back when. I tried searching for the old thread we had running, but it was just too hard to find. Even Google searching failed me!

As for using a cheap resistor to "dim" an LED light... yeah, good luck with that.

LEDs tend to be far more binary light producing device than, say, an incandescent filament bulb. Either the LEDs are on, or they are off. That's why you need to use a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator) circuit to vary the light output effectively from an LED light. If you run the PWM fast enough your low speed analog eyeballs will not register the flickering of the light that is actually occurring, but it is there. And it effectively accomplishes the dimming that resistors just can't do.

 

[DaJudge]

DaJudge is "The Man" when it comes to pulsed Whelen brake lights.
He's the guy that started it all here on the FJRForum way back when. I tried searching for the old thread we had running, but it was just too hard to find. Even Google searching failed me!

Here ya go Fred. I think this is where I first posted about it anywhere - https://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41757&highlight=lin3

BTW- I'm now running your PR2 rear T30-GT front on my '13. Like it. Thanks.

 

[TomInPA]

Some Radio Shack parts work fine...276-1103 Diodes ($0.45 ea) ...you need 2 of these. The Resistors are a dime a dozen!

OR...

Here's the pre-made-up ones on eBay . but, my frugal (el' cheap-ass) method is probably a $1

Radio Shack? Closed where I live, I need to check out the status since bankruptcy.

 

[Top_Speed1]

Some Radio Shack parts work fine...

https://www.radioshack.com/1n4004-micro-1-amp-rectifier-diode/2761103.html#.VQgqvI49L7N]276-1103 Diodes[/url] ($0.45 ea) ...you need 2 of these. The Resistors are a dime a dozen!

OR...

Here's the https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=5a+12v+diode&_sop=15&_from=R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xdual+intesity+module.TRS0&_nkw=dual+intesity+module&ghostText=&_sacat=0]pre-made-up ones on eBay[/url] . but, my frugal (el' cheap-ass) method is probably a $1

Radio Shack? Closed where I live, I need to check out the status since bankruptcy.

Any purchase source then, doesn't matter. This is basic electronics 101. And it works fine w LED as long as u don't go too high on the resistor (ohms wise). Another words over 600 ohms will cut out the low entirely. It also is going to be to dim in running light mode flirting close to the 600ohm mark. Start out w a 1w 400ohm. So 3 easy to obtain cheap ass cost wise parts.... And your single power feed led will be dual output LED.
Done it and works perfect. Not good, flawlessly perfect. Don't forget to put the Diodes anode (+¥) which is the end w the stripe; pointing or heading towards the LED light. This is important, otherwise u will flow power back upstream. As we all know, resistors it doesn't matter, they're bi-flow, Diodes are not.

Usually I'd say listen to Fred W, but he is apparently out of his element on this. Hey, ya can't know everything lol.

 

[tdperry]

I debated doing the "resistor" process... but then remembered I really didn't need to. I have a Turtle Hull trailer and originally it came with exactly what you are referring to for the tail lights on it. I had pulled those off and replaced the lights with a better set that already had that function built in.

I think I may pull the hyperlites off the trailer and wire them up as running and auxillary turn signals on the FJR, as I doubt I'll be pulling that trailer behind the FJR. If I do any trailer, it will be along the lines of a UniGo.

 

[Top_Speed1]

As for using a cheap resistor to "dim" an LED light... yeah, good luck with that.
LEDs tend to be far more binary light producing device than, say, an incandescent filament bulb. Either the LEDs are on, or they are off. That's why you need to use a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator) circuit to vary the light output effectively from an LED light. If you run the PWM fast enough your low speed analog eyeballs will not register the flickering of the light that is actually occurring, but it is there. And it effectively accomplishes the dimming that resistors just can't do.

So if you don't "think it can be done, it can't huh? Well, I said not only it can be, but I have done this (as I described^^^) and now tested for more than 3 years!. I think this should be enough T&E.

Freddie, your losing credibility, and, you'll never get a job with NASA

lol. Don't go up against me in electronics, especially lighting. Stick w the FJR and mechanics thereof, where you are the King.

Some Radio Shack parts work fine...

https://www.radioshack.com/1n4004-micro-1-amp-rectifier-diode/2761103.html#.VQgqvI49L7N]276-1103 Diodes[/url] ($0.45 ea) ...you need 2 of these. The Resistors are a dime a dozen!

OR...

Here's the https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=5a+12v+diode&_sop=15&_from=R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40|R40&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xdual+intesity+module.TRS0&_nkw=dual+intesity+module&ghostText=&_sacat=0]pre-made-up ones on eBay[/url] . but, my frugal (el' cheap-ass) method is probably a $1

Radio Shack? Closed where I live, I need to check out the status since bankruptcy.

Any purchase source then, doesn't matter. This is basic electronics 101. And it works fine w LED as long as u don't go too high on the resistor (ohms wise). Another words over 600 ohms will cut out the low entirely. It also is going to be to dim in running light mode flirting close to the 600ohm mark. Start out w a 1w 400ohm. So 3 easy to obtain cheap ass cost wise parts.... And your single power feed led will be dual output LED.
Done it and works perfect. Not good, flawlessly perfect. Don't forget to put the Diodes anode (+¥) which is the end w the stripe; pointing or heading towards the LED light. This is important, otherwise u will flow power back upstream. As we all know, resistors it doesn't matter, they're bi-flow, Diodes are not.

Usually I'd say listen to Fred W, but he is apparently out of his element on this. Hey, ya can't know everything lol.

So, I scoured the Internet late last night and found this video w LED's. His components are exactly like mine, except my resistor is slightly different. I just knew that I couldn't be the only idiot that doesn't know basic electronics and this basic power cut-down method. Here ya go, dirty hands and all, and just fer u "non-believers"......

(note, he refers to one of the Diode's as a Resistor, ignore it, he just got a lil corn-fused. The 2 pieces are Diodes, the single is the Resistor)

 

[Fred W]

I never said that I thought it couldn't be done. I said "good luck with that", and then tried to explain why the entire industry uses a PWM scheme to dim LEDs and doesn't just use a (much less expensive) series, current limiting resistor.

So, I'll say it again: Good luck with that.

 

[El Toro Joe]

 

[Top_Speed1]

I've got more electronic stuff up my sleeve as well (that I use on my bike). Yes, I do have a very hi-tech bike and absolutely love it. Whatever anyone says here, I could care less, I've been there w both, and done it. So, this trick will also work on a Japanese bike, I promise! (hehe, just for Freddie)

My mod name: "TS1-F/R-LJ"

....so how about installing LED's (but special infrared ones) in the front and back of your bike to make it "stealth" to police laser? I have mine switched on/off, so when I get back down to speed, I can flick it off, now giving the po-po a reading. It's not illegal (at least in my State). As for the record, I'm not promoting this nor have I (so far) disclosed my special little mod. My idea came from my Escort 9500ci which has laser jamming built-in. It uses the exact same technology, but for maybe $10 bucks plus the cost of a switch. whoo-hoo!

This mod is for laser only, not microwave. So you'll use it as a companion to your choice of radar detector's

If there's any interest in this, I'll have to make it's own thread as this thread is for the single LED (LIN3) LED. Also, I'm not sure about legalities on posting this, but, I'm sure we have an expert here who will tell us.

"The Electronics King" Out! ...for now, lol.

 

[someguy]

wow. good stuff.

and best plug and play really bright/super flasher brake light upgrade would be??

(all these mods and electronics are awesome, but for simple dogs like me, i need plug and play.)

Top Speed... PLEASE link your development on your TS1-F/R-LJ stealth mod... very very very interested in following this.

 

[jblanken64]

Ideally you'd only want those LEDs to be on when there is a laser signal present. A microcontroller should be able to detect and enable fast enough (I think). You definitely don't want them on all of the time because, depending on the particular IR wavelength, the LEDs will be visible to cameras. (Which is also an easy trick to see if your remote it working. Just hold it in front of a camera and press a button.)

 

[Top_Speed1]

wow. good stuff.and best plug and play really bright/super flasher brake light upgrade would be??

(all these mods and electronics are awesome, but for simple dogs like me, i need plug and play.)

Top Speed... PLEASE link your development on your TS1-F/R-LJ stealth mod... very very very interested in following this.

These below are what I'm currently using on my Beemer (I use a 10.5" smoked tubed-one, in red, mounted just under my tail-rack). I've tried about 50 different LED strips etc. These are 'THE VERY BEST' (strip wise). They also cost the most of any I've tried. Man, this is just too familiar in the M/C world, better always costs more, darn-it!

Here's a link

I use my Diode/Resistor mod on this as well; to make it dual intensity LED. Works perfect, I did have to try a few different resistors before i got the right "cut-down" for the running (parking) light output. Can't remember what I finally settled on. In my older skool years, I could read resistance by color code rings. Long forgot that, sorry!, I now cheat with a voltmeter reading resistance/ohms mode. It's very easy to swap in/out different resistors to get your desired "drop-down intensity level". Just don't solder until you are satisfied. *IF* you run 2 sets or more (of different LED's), you may have to use 2 different mods/circuits of this w different resistance (the single Resistor). The Diodes all stay the same, a 5A should suffice with any LED you use. Incandescent is another story all to itself. We won't go there on this subject.

LIN3 Modulated Note: I think I mentioned this before?^. To make more definition in the modulation (pulses), you "may" want to keep a lower luminance level for the running/parking output. If you use a low number ohm Diode, it will be too bright on running/parking and not give you enough definition between flashes.

So there's nothing wrong with the LIN3, it's an awesome small little LED, and I don't wanna ship on this thread. The above is just another application/LED, and of course, if you have the real-estate to incorporate this strip.

Ideally you'd only want those LEDs to be on when there is a laser signal present. A microcontroller should be able to detect and enable fast enough (I think). You definitely don't want them on all of the time because, depending on the particular IR wavelength, the LEDs will be visible to cameras. (Which is also an easy trick to see if your remote it working. Just hold it in front of a camera and press a button.)

Well then, call my mod red-neck! lol. Mine works awesome, I have a State Trooper buddy that I have tested it with. I also have 2 Sheriff Deputy friends (1 goes out w Debbie's older sister), but they don't have the laser in their cruisers.