LOUD horn installation

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^^^^^^^^^^^ Ding! Ding!

This install is getting easier and easier, and I haven't even started! One of you guys want to drop by this weekend and actually do it for me? Got a fine selection of craft beers in the fridge ......
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I also did already change the routing, just using a small zip tie and latching them to the top center plastic bar of the radiator guard - only because I could see them. I showed that in my last video a few days ago. Good find on those ends. It seems not all Shacks are created equal these days, mine doesn't carry squat so I had to make due :(

 
A quick and even simpler way to accomplish the harness splitting is by picking up some of these little connectors at your favorite electronic supply store (I think I got these at Radio Shack)
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Simply crimp those onto the end of your extension wires, push the female part on the left horn terminals and push the female connectors from the wiring harness onto the male spades of these connectors. Same principle as yours, but less cutting, stripping and crimping.
These connectors are called "piggy back" crimp terminals. Amazon and most electronics parts houses (not including RadShak) will have them for you.

Cheers,

Infrared

 
It's a professional Rode mic. Yep, it's accurate. People's perceptions however, are not.
This is one of the rare cases where the perceived volume is actually more important than what's measured. After all we aren't trying to get the attention of dB meters or studio microphones. Whatever gets your attention the best is also likely to work best for getting the attention of others too.
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Many, many thanks for this well presented info on how to install the PIAA Slim Line horns on the GenIII. Just one more question. For those who installed the second horn where there is no factory bracket but used the stud holding the radiator, do you believe that mount is string enough to support the horn long term? It was stated that threaded hole is soft. Thanks.

Art

 
Mine's going on there tonight or tomorrow, so, "Yes, I believe that mount is strong enough to support the horn long term."

If/when it falls off, I will report same to this Forum.

 
Being mostly plastic, these PIAA horns are pretty darned light. I think the plastic screw hole is probably going to hold just fine.

On a different horn note, I have been looking at he various PIAA horn kits and have found that for the same money as the slimlines you can get the sports horns. Those have two, dual-tone options: The 400/500 hz "car horn" sound (PIAA p/n 85110), and a slightly higher tone 500/600 hz pair (PIAA 85112). Listening to both on the YoTube clips, I think the lower tones sound more like a big car or truck, so they may be more effective.

The sports horns have a more traditional "bell" shape for the horn output, which may be what is responsible for a claimed 3 dB increase in volume over the slim lines. I imagine the internal sound drivers are about the same mechanism.

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They look like they should be just as easy to fit on a 3rd gen as the slim lines, using the same overall plan as was presented earlier, so I may be giving those a try sometime over the winter (after we catch up on the holidays bills a bit ). If there actually is an improvement in volume it would be welcome.

 
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I have the Sports horns 400/500. Lots of us do. No special fitting needed on Gen I or 2, but they do need to be tucked away into the corner to avoid contact with the forks. Like the slim line they mount on the OEM bolts.

 
I'm having difficulty finding the piggy back connectors. I can find them readily available on line but in large quantities or packs of 10. Parts plus shpn and your at $10. Seems like one hell of a price to get the two I need to do the job. Anyone out there know where these things can be found locally? I have tried Radio Shack, Home Depot and Orchard Supply Hardware. None of these stores have them. If any of you good Samaritans have two you are willing to give up, I will gladly buy two. Let me know how much you need with shpn. Thanks, Art

 
It takes 2 minutes to make them like I showed...totally secure and you can't see them - why spend a chunk of money on something else if you don't have to?

 
I'm having difficulty finding the piggy back connectors. I can find them readily available on line but in large quantities or packs of 10. Parts plus shpn and your at $10. Seems like one hell of a price to get the two I need to do the job. Anyone out there know where these things can be found locally? I have tried Radio Shack, Home Depot and Orchard Supply Hardware. None of these stores have them. If any of you good Samaritans have two you are willing to give up, I will gladly buy two. Let me know how much you need with shpn. Thanks, Art
Art, try the local NAPA store, I remember stocking those while still in the auto parts business. They were packed 2 or 3 in a small clam shell container.

 
It takes 2 minutes to make them like I showed...totally secure and you can't see them - why spend a chunk of money on something else if you don't have to?
True. But most people won't have an on-hand supply of crimp-on spade connectors (being in the industry, I do) and will have to go out shopping for the regular connectors anyway.

 
I had the PIAA Sport horns on my 08 and took them off before trading in. Just put the 500 Hz one on the 14, but after watching Kaelaria's video will be putting on the 400 Hz on this winter. Good idea on the homemade piggyback fittings! The difference on the 08 was incredible!

Edit: Funday Sunday, couldn't wait and needed something to do on a dreary winter day. Took all of half an hour including making the wiring harness. Thanks for the kick in the butt to finish this project Kaelaria!

https://vid401.photobucket.com/albums/pp95/bogus5454/MAH00772_zpsxwrqwqif.mp4

 
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Well, my new Nautilus compact horn should be here tomorrow. After I ordered it, I started finding all kinds of posts in other forums about how these horns are so unreliable and won't last long. It's too late now, but I am curious how many people here have the Stebel Nautilus and have had good results as far as durability when properly installed (with a relay, out of the water, dust, etc)?

 
You will get at least 3 years out of it, and probably more if it is protected. It really depends on your mounting location and exposure to wet and grit. The area above the radiator is not prone to tire splash, but it gets a fair amount of crap. I would think you have generally dryer riding than those of us in the northeast, and wetter than California and Arizona. Longevity is something of a function of when and where you ride. So if you need to replace in 3-5 years, what does a $50-$60 horn really owe you?

 
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That's true, I wonder of some of the bad experiences could be attributed to less than optimal installations? I have heard about using hose (like women's pantyhose) to wrap around the horns to keep things from going up in there...anyone try that?

 
Just slip a condom over the opening. That will prevent accidents from happening!! They are readily available in all drug stores, bars, and many gas station men's room.

 
Well, my new Nautilus compact horn should be here tomorrow. After I ordered it, I started finding all kinds of posts in other forums about how these horns are so unreliable and won't last long. It's too late now, but I am curious how many people here have the Stebel Nautilus and have had good results as far as durability when properly installed (with a relay, out of the water, dust, etc)?
I started this thread back in late 2008 when I originally installed the Nautilus horn under my lower triple tree. As I reported above: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/112666-loud-horn-installation/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1197938 , this horn lasted about 6 years and I ride 24/7/365 and we do get a lot of rain here in the Seattle area. I didn't route a inlet air line to a dryer area on the bike and maybe that would have kept the horn alive longer? My replacement horn was only $44 delivered off ebay. This calculates out to roughly $7 per year for ear blistering sound, so I've got no reason to complain. ;)

 
I've had the 400-500 hz units on an FJR in the past, and they've been good but has anyone tried the 500-600 versions?

 
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