Mechanical car question

[keithaba]

My S.O.'s 96 mustang is having a weird problem. The car has recently started to have a kinda funny smell, it smells almost like something is burning, and the windshield and even side windows are getting a weird fog to them. You wipe the fog off, it comes back. I checked the radiator fluid, oil, and radiator fan. All looks fine. Also, if you try to defrost it, it makes is worse.

Anyone have any clue what the heck might do that?

 

[sonicspeed]

has she been parking up at Waverley Hills???

https://www.prairieghosts.com/waverly_tb.html

 

[evil_henchman]

Sounds like a heater core. Does it smell anything like hot antifreeze? Pop your radiator cap off if you're not sure

 

[Fred W]

My S.O.'s 96 mustang is having a weird problem. The car has recently started to have a kinda funny smell, it smells almost like something is burning, and the windshield and even side windows are getting a weird fog to them. You wipe the fog off, it comes back. I checked the radiator fluid, oil, and radiator fan. All looks fine. Also, if you try to defrost it, it makes is worse.
Anyone have any clue what the heck might do that?

Does it smell kinda like maple syrup? [edit] I asked this because a leaky heater core smells like this.

The other symptoms suggest a leak in the heater core. The HVAC always passes thru the core (looks like a mini radiator) even when you aren't calling for heat.

 

[radman]

Heater core. Fun fun fun. :glare:

 

[HYCLE]

Heater core is most likely cause and not a fun job to do

.

Parts Information

Part OEM Part Price

Heater Core F4ZZ18476A $123.43

Heater Core

Replace 6.4 hrs

Includes: Instrument Panel R&I - Does Not Include: Refrigerant Recovery Or Evacuate & Recharge AC System.

NOTE

To Replace Heater Hoses, Add

One 0.2

Both 0.4

 

[drjfjr]

gunny+1

Sounds like a heater core. Kinda of sweet smell and fogging on the inside whenever heat or defrost is on.

 

[user 8909]

heater core,

is the carpet wet ?

 

[wfooshee]

Heater Core Replace 6.4 hrs

Includes: Instrument Panel R&I - Does Not Include: Refrigerant Recovery Or Evacuate & Recharge AC System.

I'm not sure you'd have to evacuate/recharge the A/C system. I've done heater cores on three cars, and never had to.

The heater core is basically the first part on the assembly line, and the car is built around it. They'll tell you different, but that's how it feels when you're trying to dig one out. You have work to do in inaccessible locations on both sides of the firewall.

 

[HYCLE]

Heater core is most likely cause and not a fun job to do
.

Parts Information

Part OEM Part Price

Heater Core F4ZZ18476A $123.43

Heater Core

Replace 6.4 hrs

Includes: Instrument Panel R&I - Does Not Include: Refrigerant Recovery Or Evacuate & Recharge AC System.

NOTE

To Replace Heater Hoses, Add

One 0.2

Both 0.4

Here is the procedure.

Disconnect battery ground cable.

Remove two console armrest mounting access covers at rear of console panel to access armrest bolts.

Remove four armrest to floor bracket bolts, then armrest assembly.

Remove console panel gear shift plate, noting following:

On models equipped with manual transmission, shift boot is attached to bottom of finish panel.

Remove shift knob and slide boot and console panel gear shift plate up shift lever to remove.

Remove top finish panel as follows:

Position emergency brake lever in UP position.

Remove four screws and lift finish panel up.

Disconnect necessary electrical connectors.

Remove console to rear floor bracket screws, then snap out front upper finish panel by inserting small screwdriver into notches at bottom of panel.

Remove radio/stereo.

Flex glove compartment bin tabs inward, then drop down glove compartment assembly and remove two console to instrument panel screws.

Remove four console bracket screws, then console panel from vehicle.

Remove three steering column opening cover to reinforcement panel bolts, then cover.

Remove steering column opening reinforcement bolts and reinforcement.

Remove six steering column nuts, then lower steering column to floor.

Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds and disconnect wiring from turn signal and wiper switch.

Remove steering column through-bolt and nut on engine compartment side of cowl panel, then steering column from vehicle.

Remove brake pedal support nut.

Snap out instrument panel defroster opening grill.

Remove screws from speaker covers, then snap out covers.

Remove front screws retaining righthand and lefthand scuff plates at cowl side trim panels.

Remove righthand and lefthand cowl side trim panels, then disconnect wiring at righthand cowl side.

Remove cowl side bolts, then five cowl top screw attachments.

Gently pull instrument panel away from righthand side of cowl panel.

Disconnect speedometer cable, air conditioning controls and wire connectors.

Place drain pan or suitable container under heater water hose connections at cowl panel.

[SIZE=14pt]Recover A/C system. [/SIZE]

Disconnect condenser to evaporator tube and suction accumulator/drier inlet tube from evaporator core at cowl panel. Cap refrigerant lines and evaporator core tube to prevent dirt and moisture from entering system.

Remove high- and low-pressure hoses, then cap hose openings.

Disconnect heater water hoses from heater core tubes and plug heater water hoses with suitable 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch plugs. Cap tubes to prevent coolant loss from heater core during heater case removal.

Remove A/C evaporator case support bracket to cowl top panel screw, then disconnect vacuum supply hose (black) from A/C vacuum supply in engine compartment.

Working under hood, remove heater case to cowl panel nut, then, working inside passenger compartment, remove A/C evaporator case mounting bracket to cowl top panel screw.

Remove one screw retaining A/C evaporator case mounting bracket below heater case to cowl panel, then carefully pull evaporator case from cowl panel and remove from vehicle.

Reverse procedure to install, noting following:

Check operation of all components.

Check coolant level in radiator and coolant recovery reservoir. Fill as required with recommended coolant mixture.

Torque top bracket nut and screw to 7.6-10.2 ft lb .

Torque bottom bracket screw to 15-19 in lb .

Torque underhood retaining nut and accumulator bracket nuts to 5-6.9 ft lb .

 

[keithaba]

Great! Well, the information, not that the heater core is porbably done....

Thanks for the step by step HCycle. That is really really helpful!

 

[keithaba]

O.k. Since it's monday, i don't know if I'll be able to do this until the weekend because she needs to have transportation. Does driving it with a bad heating core do anything else bad to the car.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Lots of guesses and probably quite right, but confirm the diagnosis before digging in.

Bob

 

[radman]

O.k. Since it's monday, i don't know if I'll be able to do this until the weekend because she needs to have transportation. Does driving it with a bad heating core do anything else bad to the car.

Try some good quality system sealer first. There is a new one on the market, have to find it for you, that is supposedly the heater core's answer to a prayer. You can always disconnect the heater hoses and join them in a loop-will also answer the question as to whether the core is indeed the culprit.

 

[keithaba]

The descriptions certainly sound like that is the culprit. The carpet also was a little wet, with some lovely dirty looking running down the side of the dash. (Stained sara's shoes, hell hath no fury like a women with stained shoes!)

Radman: is this what you were talking about. blue devil

 

[RadioHowie]

Heater core is most likely cause and not a fun job to do
.

Parts Information

Part OEM Part Price

Heater Core F4ZZ18476A $123.43

Heater Core

Replace 6.4 hrs

Includes: Instrument Panel R&I - Does Not Include: Refrigerant Recovery Or Evacuate & Recharge AC System.

NOTE

To Replace Heater Hoses, Add

One 0.2

Both 0.4

Here is the procedure.

Disconnect battery ground cable.

Remove two console armrest mounting access covers at rear of console panel to access armrest bolts.

Remove four armrest to floor bracket bolts, then armrest assembly.

Remove console panel gear shift plate, noting following:

On models equipped with manual transmission, shift boot is attached to bottom of finish panel.

Remove shift knob and slide boot and console panel gear shift plate up shift lever to remove.

Remove top finish panel as follows:

Position emergency brake lever in UP position.

Remove four screws and lift finish panel up.

Disconnect necessary electrical connectors.

Remove console to rear floor bracket screws, then snap out front upper finish panel by inserting small screwdriver into notches at bottom of panel.

Remove radio/stereo.

Flex glove compartment bin tabs inward, then drop down glove compartment assembly and remove two console to instrument panel screws.

Remove four console bracket screws, then console panel from vehicle.

Remove three steering column opening cover to reinforcement panel bolts, then cover.

Remove steering column opening reinforcement bolts and reinforcement.

Remove six steering column nuts, then lower steering column to floor.

Remove upper and lower steering column shrouds and disconnect wiring from turn signal and wiper switch.

Remove steering column through-bolt and nut on engine compartment side of cowl panel, then steering column from vehicle.

Remove brake pedal support nut.

Snap out instrument panel defroster opening grill.

Remove screws from speaker covers, then snap out covers.

Remove front screws retaining righthand and lefthand scuff plates at cowl side trim panels.

Remove righthand and lefthand cowl side trim panels, then disconnect wiring at righthand cowl side.

Remove cowl side bolts, then five cowl top screw attachments.

Gently pull instrument panel away from righthand side of cowl panel.

Disconnect speedometer cable, air conditioning controls and wire connectors.

Place drain pan or suitable container under heater water hose connections at cowl panel.

[SIZE=14pt]Recover A/C system. [/SIZE]

Disconnect condenser to evaporator tube and suction accumulator/drier inlet tube from evaporator core at cowl panel. Cap refrigerant lines and evaporator core tube to prevent dirt and moisture from entering system.

Remove high- and low-pressure hoses, then cap hose openings.

Disconnect heater water hoses from heater core tubes and plug heater water hoses with suitable 5/8 inch and 3/4 inch plugs. Cap tubes to prevent coolant loss from heater core during heater case removal.

Remove A/C evaporator case support bracket to cowl top panel screw, then disconnect vacuum supply hose (black) from A/C vacuum supply in engine compartment.

Working under hood, remove heater case to cowl panel nut, then, working inside passenger compartment, remove A/C evaporator case mounting bracket to cowl top panel screw.

Remove one screw retaining A/C evaporator case mounting bracket below heater case to cowl panel, then carefully pull evaporator case from cowl panel and remove from vehicle.

Reverse procedure to install, noting following:

Check operation of all components.

Check coolant level in radiator and coolant recovery reservoir. Fill as required with recommended coolant mixture.

Torque top bracket nut and screw to 7.6-10.2 ft lb .

Torque bottom bracket screw to 15-19 in lb .

Torque underhood retaining nut and accumulator bracket nuts to 5-6.9 ft lb .

^^^ Long version

Short version?

 

[Geezer]

The descriptions certainly sound like that is the culprit. The carpet also was a little wet, with some lovely dirty looking running down the side of the dash. (Stained sara's shoes, hell hath no fury like a women with stained shoes!)
Radman: is this what you were talking about. blue devil

That Blue Devil stuff cost 60 bucks.

 

[Fred W]

The descriptions certainly sound like that is the culprit. The carpet also was a little wet, with some lovely dirty looking running down the side of the dash. (Stained sara's shoes, hell hath no fury like a women with stained shoes!)
Radman: is this what you were talking about. blue devil

That Blue Devil stuff cost 60 bucks.

Definitely NOT worth it IMO.

Try Bar's Leaks in the gray (silver) bottle. It is pretty good at extending the time until you need to do the dirty deed without completely plugging up your radiator. It is the liquid that you want (not the solid pellets)

clicky

 

[feejer222]

Could just be a hose loose or split.