Mountain Bike Rack

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

I am looking to build myself a mountain bike rack for the FJR. I want to be able to enjoy both sports while saving gas hauling my pedal bike around. My plan so far is to mount a fork clamp

somewhere under the pillion to secure the fork to the FJR. Then build a mount of sorts to cradle the crank of the mountain bike thus supporting the rear of the bike. Here is a pic of my bike

it weighs just under 30#. I already have a Garauld FJR rack with back rest. I am hoping I can use it in someway to support the mount that supports the bike crank. I want to be able to remove the bike rack with relative ease for times when I dont haul the bike. I would one day like to find an old seat pan or build an aluminum cover that would fasten to the pillion seat mechanism making it a snap to swap seats and go. If anyone has an ideas please post away. I am in the brainstorming phase.

I have seen this system, but would like to save myself some money doing a DIY.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Road_Runner]

The 2X2 system puts the bicycle up pretty high, which I don't like much. I think the most feasable is upside down, with the handlebars on the seat, and the rear tire as close to the ground as possible. Like the rat bike in this thread: Bicycle Mount

This would require a custom mount bolted to the luggage rack, but seems to me to be a better option than the 2X2.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

I think what I have decided is to find a used Pillion Seat pan. Dont know how hard that will be seeing that some people have them modified for long distance. Anyway, the pan with some minnor strengthening should EASILY carry the weight of the bike. It will also cover the area just as the seat normally does. Looking at the setup, with the bike hanging over FJR, leaves the crank just above the rear rack. A short support to keep the front sprockets off the rack is all that will be needed. The set up shouldnt be taller than a rider. Plus with the front of the bike pulled down the weight will be on the pillion seat with the rear of the bike only lightly resting on the crank for support and rigidity. Now to find a CHEAP USED pillion seat. Im sure Garauld could build me something AWESOME. I may have to contact him and see what he can do.

 

[Richouse]

I have seen those motorcycle trailers with bicycle style wheels that are half the size of MTB wheels. Why not use the fork clamp mount like pictured and just let the back wheel run on the ground. It would not be ideal for long trips since it would wear the tire tread...

 

[gixxerjasen]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=144113

This one in particular on that thread is pretty cool.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

I have seen those motorcycle trailers with bicycle style wheels that are half the size of MTB wheels. Why not use the fork clamp mount like pictured and just let the back wheel run on the ground. It would not be ideal for long trips since it would wear the tire tread...

I dont think a bike hub would last that long speeding down the highway. I perfer to carry the bike.

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=144113

This one in particular on that thread is pretty cool.

Yes this is similar to what I want to do just picture it at seat level. I could buy one of those roof rack mounts and find a way to secure it.

 

[CAJW]

I'd look at placing cables w/ turnbuckles or over center cams, attached to a mid to high point on the bike down to a point other than the sub-frame to help absorb torsional loads. Possibly attached to the pax peg brackets.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

I'd look at placing cables w/ turnbuckles or over center cams, attached to a mid to high point on the bike down to a point other than the sub-frame to help absorb torsional loads. Possibly attached to the pax peg brackets.

Totally agree with you and I plan to do just that. It will help to stabilize the bike and move more of the weight of the bike forward instead of levered by the rear of the mtn bike.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

Bump

 

[Goodman4]

This seems crazy, but you guys seem to know what you're doing. Barry, if we get to ride LBL sometime, you've got to bring your bike setup along because I need pics for my cycling friends.

 

[mferriter]

I'd get one of those $150 3' x 4' trailers from harbor freight and put your bike on there. These "on bike" systems look inherently unstable to me and also look like they would have a negative effect on your FJRs handling.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

This seems crazy, but you guys seem to know what you're doing. Barry, if we get to ride LBL sometime, you've got to bring your bike setup along because I need pics for my cycling friends.

I am definitely putting safety first. As soon as this HOT weather breaks, we will get together for a ride. Hooters in Clarksville has been calling my name for a while now!

I'd get one of those $150 3' x 4' trailers from harbor freight and put your bike on there. These "on bike" systems look inherently unstable to me and also look like they would have a negative effect on your FJRs handling.

Just haven't wanted to put a trailer hitch on my FJ,R but I agree this is a good idea!

 

[Niehart]

Saw a BMW GS on WA NF25 today with a mtn bike on the back rack. Should have turned around a got a picture for you.

 

[mferriter]

Keep in mind that the rear rack isn't designed to hold much weight at all. There are numerous thread here about broken racks, grab rails, rear sub-frames etc.

The picture posted above looks like it is cantilevered from the rear seat. It also looks like the Yakima bike rail is being supported by the backrest, or maybe the rear rack - with most of the weight of the bike BEHIND that support.

FOr a rough estimate, F2 = (r1/r2) × F1 where r1/r2 is the ratio of the length of the unsupported portion of the bike rail over the supported length and F1 is the weight of the unsupported length. For example, if the rail is 4' long with 3' behind the rear support and the bike weighs 20 pounds, then the force (F2) at the support would be in the neighborhood of 45 pounds depending on the weight distribution of the bike.

As a demonstration, try to hold a 8' long 2x2 (only weighs a few pounds) horizontally by one end with one hand, or even two hands right next to eachother. Difficult. Now move your hands apart to support the wieght. It gets much easier the farther apart your hands are, and the more balanced the load is.

You can also think of it as a see-saw with one side much longer than the other (the basic concept of a lever).

I think the set up in the picture will be problematic, especially if you hit a bump in the road.

Me no likey

 

[bucky]

me no likey either. you wouldn't catch me riding something like that or for that matter even following behind that contraption. hope you got high liability limits on your bike. you might just need it. you could cause one hell of an accident.

besides, this setup is starting to look like Jethro tooling around beverly hills in uncle jed's truck.

 

[Niehart]

The setup I saw yesterday had the bike much lower and really didn't look to bad. And if will stay put on NF25, it should be OK anywhere.

 

[mferriter]

The setup I saw yesterday had the bike much lower and really didn't look to bad. And if will stay put on NF25, it should be OK anywhere.

I would seriously consider the effective weight you are putting on your rear subframe. It may stay put, but damage to your subframe is very costly to repair. There are some threads here regarding cracks developing just from the weight of an overloaded topcase. I think your going to be WAY over that weight.

 

[Barry 07 FJR1300AE]

The setup I saw yesterday had the bike much lower and really didn't look to bad. And if will stay put on NF25, it should be OK anywhere.

I would seriously consider the effective weight you are putting on your rear subframe. It may stay put, but damage to your subframe is very costly to repair. There are some threads here regarding cracks developing just from the weight of an overloaded topcase. I think your going to be WAY over that weight.

The majority of my weight will be on the passenger seat, only a small portion will be resting on the rear portion of the bike. On top of that the whole bike weights 30#. Many people care much more than that.

 

[mferriter]

The setup I saw yesterday had the bike much lower and really didn't look to bad. And if will stay put on NF25, it should be OK anywhere.

I would seriously consider the effective weight you are putting on your rear subframe. It may stay put, but damage to your subframe is very costly to repair. There are some threads here regarding cracks developing just from the weight of an overloaded topcase. I think your going to be WAY over that weight.

The majority of my weight will be on the passenger seat, only a small portion will be resting on the rear portion of the bike. On top of that the whole bike weights 30#. Many people care much more than that.

Actually, the way it is pictured, MOST of the weight is on the rear support and very little if any is on the seat. The force on the seat is actually most likely upwards, not down, if the attachment point, support point, and weight destribution is as pictured. The bike rail will naturally try to pivot towards the heavier side. In this case, that's towards the rear, putting all of the downwards force on the rear support.

A 30 lb bike set up with the supports as pictured converts to approximately 65 lbs or so at the rear support point. This assumes a 4' bike rail with 75% of the weight behind the rear support. It's all based on leverage.

But then again, nothing beats just trying it out. I'll stop nagging now.