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Did you try running it with the traction control off yet??

A long shot but is it possible the rear tire is breaking loose (hard acceleration-then rise in RPM's momentarily), the TC kicks in and lowers the RPM's back to normal????

 
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I can confirm you can detect a momentary increase in rpm when the traction control operates.

Had occasion to "test" mine today, hit a bit of slimy mud. Wasn't pushing hard, in second gear, maybe 3000 rpm, 30 mph? Revs increased, then dropped back immediately, with the to-be-expected drop in acceleration. Other than that, no noise, no drama.

 
Hmmm, then I wonder if that's it? Could it be a traction control module, if there is one?

Ok, I finally got time off to put in the fiber clutch plates. Soaked them overnight, and put them in today. I noticed that the last two plates (metal and final fiber plates) were a bit more difficult to put on. I assumed this was because of the thickness of the new fiber plates taking up more room. Got it back together, torquing the clutch bolts to 8nm using a good torque wrench I borrowed from a machinist at work (Torquemaster, made in England).

Start the bike up in 1st, holding the brake too, and all's well. Let off the brake, with the clutch pulled all the way in, and the bike rolls forward. I disassembled the clutch again, taking all the plates off, except the last two held in with the retaining clip :) and put back together. Start it up, and still the same result.

Am I doing something wrong?

P.S. Also, I cannot shift up from first while sitting still. Don't know about moving, as I'm not wanting to ride it without clutch disengaging.

 
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Pull the clutch cover off again and see if you can watch the clutch pressure plate and spring move when you actuate the clutch.

Did you pull the little plunger out that pushes against the bearing on the pressure plate? There's a ball bearing beneath it; it may have fallen out. Been known to happen.

 
Where is the lever set? Try setting it for the biggest distance from the bar (forget which number that is)

What plates did you end up getting? OEM or Barnett?

Good suggestion about the ball in the pushrod

 
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... I noticed that the last two plates (metal and final fiber plates) were a bit more difficult to put on. .... Am I doing something wrong?...
Sounds like you might not have seated the very first plate properly, it fits round that ring, not up against it. This would explain both the last plates being difficult to get in as well as the drag your clutch is obviously experiencing.

Of course, the drag could also be because of air in the hydraulics.

 
The clutch basket moves in and out when pulling the lever.

I bought OEM plates.

I will pull it back apart...again....and make sure the plates are seating properly.

 
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... I noticed that the last two plates (metal and final fiber plates) were a bit more difficult to put on. .... Am I doing something wrong?...
Sounds like you might not have seated the very first plate properly, it fits round that ring, not up against it. This would explain both the last plates being difficult to get in as well as the drag your clutch is obviously experiencing.

Of course, the drag could also be because of air in the hydraulics.
Ok, it's back apart, except for the two plates held in by the retaining ring. When I changed the plates, I left those last two alone this time. Hence, the first two plates, to go on, haven't been removed for this. Since the clutch worked after taking them ALL off the first time, I decided to leave them alone to change the 7 fiber plates.

So what should I be looking for?

 
In the linked picture,


Did you ever pull the small round plunger in the center of the clutch hub out (#6 in drawing below)?

Behind that is where the small steel ball is and the push rod from the clutch slave.

If not, when assembling you should have 7 identical fiber plates and 7 steel ones to be interleaved. Then there is one last fiber plate that is different than the others. Then the pressure plate (aka clutch cover), then the two piece spring with the ring going on first and the beveled spring on top of that, with the bevel pointing out (center high on the outside). Last is the ring with the bolt holes, and bolt it in.


Here's the assembly drawing from the parts manual:

FJR1300%20Clutch%20Assembly.jpg


As you can see the fiber plate behind the clip is different (#16) and the top one is different (#9) from the seven in the middle (#11).

 
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I found the problem, to this dilemma at least. 4 plates are warped. 3 ever so slightly, and the 4th most pronounced. Used 4 old ones in their place, and everything when together easy-peasy!

I think they might've been sent to me this way. I just got them, soaked overnight, and put in today. They didn't want to go in from the onset.

Let me get the rest of it back together, and confirm I have normal clutch actuation.

 
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In the linked picture,

Did you ever pull the small round plunger in the center of the clutch hub out (#6 in drawing below)?

Behind that is where the small steel ball is and the push rod from the clutch slave.

If not, when assembling you should have 7 identical fiber plates and 7 steel ones to be interleaved. Then there is one last fiber plate that is different than the others. Then the pressure plate (aka clutch cover), then the two piece spring with the ring going on first and the beveled spring on top of that, with the bevel pointing out (center high on the outside). Last is the ring with the bolt holes, and bolt it in.

Here's the assembly drawing from the parts manual:[img=[URL="https://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/FJWinNH/Yamaha%20FJR1300/FJR1300%20Clutch%20Assembly.jpg%5D"]https://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad4/FJWinNH/Yamaha%20FJR1300/FJR1300%20Clutch%20Assembly.jpg][/URL]

As you can see the fiber plate behind the clip is different (#16) and the top one is different (#9) from the seven in the middle (#11).
Thank you for the heads up Fred, I did know of the innermost and outermost being different. Considering my efforts in getting the retaining ring back in a few weeks ago, no one should ever assume I know anything obvious. :rofl:
I'm going to clean up and take it for a test ride. Sitting still, it shifts normally now.

 
Warped plates is a new one on me, but certainly explains your symptoms after the rebuild.

Question: how on earth did new plates become warped?

 
Beats me. I looked at one, to see if it matched the old ones, then just put the rest in a oil bath.

Ok, I'm taking a rest stop after doing some testing. 9 or so roll on's in second gear, from intermediate to hard and no slippage. Felt normal, but I wanted to do a real hard test to be certain. So I started rolling in 1st gear, then hard on throttle. Wheelie in first, then hit 2nd gear, and back on full throttle. I had 3 skips from around 4,000-7,000 rpm. These were even shorter in duration than the previous one skip I was experiencing at first.

So, I'm going to get the other 4 plates I needed, and also get the innermost and outermost fiber plates just to be sure. After taking this apart and putting together numerous times over this, I've noticed the 7 fiber plates always look dry when taking them back out. However, the innermost/outermost plates are all wet. Not sure if this is by design or not, but it's consistent. Which leads me to think that the 7 plates may be suffering some hazing. I would think that if that occurred, it could cause clutch slippage.

Thoughts?

 
Damm it - I was hoping to wake up this morning to "problem resolved".

Wish I could help, but alas I am clueless.

I lead the cheer, though - keep going, hopefully it will be fixed soon.

 
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