My Turn

[LKLD]

Yeah, I've got them on, and one end of the wire through. Trying to get the wire around the hub, and into the hole is a......bitch!

Is removing the hub assembly a major undertaking?

 

[Fred W]

It is unless you have a clutch hub holder (tool)

 

[LKLD]

 

[RaYzerman19]

Putting the wire in just takes a little patience. I am suspicious of your "inexpensive plastic mic' measurements, you may want to recheck with a real one. With your mileage, those plates should not be too thin......

 

[Fred W]

I agree... but if they were actually thin it would 'splain a few things.

Also, check all the plates, not just the ones that were lubed before.

 

[LKLD]

I got it!

There's a channel around the splines, that the wire HAS to fit into. Didn't see it. Once in the channel all around the hub, there's enough room to put the other end of the wire through. Still not easy, but doable.

 

[Fred W]

Oh sorry, I thought that was obvious. Glad you got it!

 

[LKLD]

Obvious to most...not me. :lol:

Looked at GenIII Bin-o-Facts for torque for the cover (last piece to go on), but didn't see a specific one. 4.5 lbs?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Obvious to most...not me.

Looked at GenIII Bin-o-Facts for torque for the cover (last piece to go on), but didn't see a specific one. 4.5 lbs?

My clutch cover, same size bolts (FZ6) is 8.7 ft lbs, (dry bolts).

I'd do criss-cross pattern maybe at 4' lbs, then up all the way..

 

[Fred W]

Yep, too small too worry. Just use the ole' GNT spec (Good 'n Tight)

 

[mcatrophy]

Obvious to most...not me.

Looked at GenIII Bin-o-Facts for torque for the cover (last piece to go on), but didn't see a specific one. 4.5 lbs?

My clutch cover, same size bolts (FZ6) is 8.7 ft lbs, (dry bolts).

I'd do criss-cross pattern maybe at 4' lbs, then up all the way..

Yamaha suggest tightening in a circular order:

(click on image for larger view)

 

[LKLD]

Too late to see these last posts. I used the criss-cross, good-n-tight method, as the wife and I have dinner with another forum member here (Steve).

I started it up in neutral, and it stayed. Got on and put it in first, big clunk. Sitting still I went up through the gears, and back down to first, less of a clunk. Checked for oil leaks, wasn't any that I can tell.

I'll take it out tomorrow to make sure it shifts correctly. Once confirmed, I'll start testing the hard acceleration in all the gears, but mainly 2nd.

I'm hoping the gunked up plates was maybe causing my issue. I'll report back.

 

[rPGoatBoy]

Wish I'd seen your struggle earlier, I'd have said to throw the damn wire out! It serves no mechanical porpoise, if I had to guess they use it as an assembly aid at the factory to hold the belleville spring, spacer, smaller friction disc and steel disc (15-18 in the fiche) in place while the engine is turned with that side facing down.

Also, the crud you're finding on your clutch has been documented on new bikes here in the past. Most people say that shifting is much easier/smoother after cleaning and soaking the discs in oil.

 

[Fred W]

Pretty sure the tightening pattern makes no difference on a simple clutch cover. It's not like it's a cylinder head, or has to seal anything at high pressure.

As for the wire clip, I had considered the same thing. Why is that thing even there?

I'm thinking that if you threw it away you would lose the "damper" function, and the clutch might begin to chatter more during engagement and when (intentionally) slipping the clutch. I've never heard that clutch chatter was a problem on FJRs. Maybe having those is why?

Those first 2 plates are always slightly engaged because of the pressure exerted on them by that wire clip. That means that even when the clutch is pulled in fully the friction of these two plates will exert some amount of force from the crank driven clutch basket to the center hub that drives the transmission. I'm starting to think that these two clutch plates are the reason that most FJRs "kerchunk" into first gear from neutral. because the clutch is never allowed to fully disengage it spins the drive side gears in neutral even after you pull in the clutch.

Has anyone intentionally left out that wire clip? Did it effect your "kerchunk" factor?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As for the wire clip, I had considered the same thing. Why is that thing even there?
Has anyone intentionally left out that wire clip? Did it effect your "kerchunk" factor?

My old FJR always had the clunk as does my FZ6 and it DOESN'T have that wire/design. (all FZ6's are known for the first gear clunk).

I minimized my clunk by lowering the idle a bit and holding in the clutch lever for several seconds to let the trans shaft slow down before going into first. It does help...

 

[mcatrophy]

FWIW, the YCC-S bikes' clutches do not have the wire, and a slightly different back ring. With the clip, the ring is marked "OUT SIDE", without the clip the ring is marked with a white dot.

There may be a difference in their design (why else would they be marked differently?) that could change things if the clip was simply left out.

If the only reason for the clip was simply as an assembly aid, why don't the YCC-S bikes have it?

I'm not arguing with anyone about this, simply throwing in the thought that there may be unwanted consequences leaving the clip out.

 

[Fred W]

It's not an assembly aid. It is what forms the "clutch damper". In the FSM they talk about renewing it if you have clutch chatter.

 

[RaYzerman19]

Unproven BS guess at what the Yamma engineers were doing.... The spring clip just causes a little preload to be kept on that first friction plate which is different than the main clutch pack (set of 7), but similar to the friction plate at the pressure plate end. So, at each end of the sandwich, we have different friction plates which may act as dampers. These two plates are the first points of contact when the clutch is engaged. This may smooth out the clutch engagement..... YCC-S may already be preloaded, or not, depending if in that situation they want the first friction plate free to disengage fully (perhaps to have as many plates disengaged as possible).

I'd just make another wild guess that leaving the wire out won't have any real detrimental effects. I could see a small upside by having another plate disengage when you pull in the clutch lever......

The kerchunk is simply a matter of non-syncro trannie shaft still spinning while clutch disengaged, something that will never really get resolved without significant design change. Since it's a wet clutch (odd, as we know it's not really all that wet, LOL), the oil film will prevent absolute full disengagement when you pull in the clutch lever (other minor factors at play too, but KISS). Naturally worse when cold with oil at higher viscosity.

 

[infrared]

I minimized my clunk by lowering the idle a bit and holding in the clutch lever for several seconds to let the trans shaft slow down before going into first. It does help...

I agree. I go a little further, holding the clutch fully disengaged for maybe ten seconds, while running the RPMs up and down after a warm-up.

Let the engine come down to idle speed then, and the shift into first gear is just a fair click, but not a severe clunk.

This way you'd be using inertia to separate the clutch plates, instead of the gears.

Cheers,

Infrared

 

[Mihalis fjr]

Sirs,here is a problem with the clutch from 2001 when mama Yamaha had designed this bike.Dry plates,Clung in the 1th,difficult gear shifting,etc...We are not the manufacturers,we are customers,buyers.We try to resolve a manufactured problem,bad design problem with tricks.Mama Yamaha should have done it...My 1990 XTZ 750 clutch and gear box works perfect!From when the 1991 mama Yamaha decided to improve the clutch housing.My 1990 clutch housing was working really bad.Dry plates,Clung and very difficult shifting.The 1991 the improved clutch housing resolve everything!