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What's up with new head bearings on a 15?

Received the Tire Watch package in the mail yesterday. The FJR is till at the dealer having new head bearings installed. Should get around to putting these in sometime next week.
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What's up with new head bearings on a 15?
They got the bearings in last Friday, but I guess I'm the low guy on the totem poll. They couldn't get to installing them until today. I should be picking my bike up later this afternoon. A little frustrating having my bike gone for so long. I'll be busy for the few days, but should have time to install the sensors later on this week or the beginning of next.
 
Bad head bearings from the factory ?

Bummer
Yeah, had some head-shake on decel slowing from 50-40mph. Torquing the head-bearings down didn't solve the problem. We'll see if the new bearings do the trick.
And here I thought this was just normal.
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I'd be interested to hear if the new bearings fix this problem. Was it very pronounced?

I've seen this now on two FJRs myself, and others have mentioned it as well. Reported degree of this varies and has been attributed to tire condition, air pressure, head bearings, etc. Some claimed it was "normal", but often "normal", as informally used, makes little distinction to the meanings "normal behavior", "common problem", or "as designed".

On my Gen 1 this never happened ... until after my local dealer serviced the head bearings. On my current bike it happens only slightly under those conditions.

YMMV...

 
Bad head bearings from the factory ?

Bummer
Yeah, had some head-shake on decel slowing from 50-40mph. Torquing the head-bearings down didn't solve the problem. We'll see if the new bearings do the trick.
And here I thought this was just normal. :) I'd be interested to hear if the new bearings fix this problem. Was it very pronounced?

I've seen this now on two FJRs myself, and others have mentioned it as well. Reported degree of this varies and has been attributed to tire condition, air pressure, head bearings, etc. Some claimed it was "normal", but often "normal", as informally used, makes little distinction to the meanings "normal behavior", "common problem", or "as designed".

On my Gen 1 this never happened ... until after my local dealer serviced the head bearings. On my current bike it happens only slightly under those conditions.

YMMV...
Thanks for the reply. I picked the bike up a few days ago and the problem still exists. Instead of a violent swing of about 3", now the bars are reduced to about 1/2".
I'm really upset with the dealer right now. When they brought the bike out it was covered in a thick coating of dust. Apparently they had it sitting outside for three weeks under an awning. I hadn't realized that they had it for that long until I signed the paperwork. They had it for 22 days for 4 hours of labor. So I get it home to do a thorough cleaning only to find scratches on my front rim and both side bags. I know I probably should've taken the bags off before I brought it down there. I still have to call the service manager to report all of this stuff, but unfortunately it's probably going to fall on deaf ears. I recently read some online reviews and I'm not the only one who's had issues with this place.

So FYI, anyone in the Phoenix area thinking about having any work done at Apache Motorcycle in Mesa, you may want to consider going somewhere else.

 
It's hard for me to compare your symptoms with ones I'm familiar with, but on my 14 (and others 14's and 15's) where the head bearings are replaced with the tapered rollers, it seems to take a second (re-) torquing to finally get it proper. It appears to be difficult to know when races are fully seated , largely due to the aluminum construction of the frame from what I'm told. While install and torque can be done to spec, the bearings won't fully seat until ridden. Some slack re-appearing some sooner some later. But when finally proper, front feels fantastic.

 
It's hard for me to compare your symptoms with ones I'm familiar with, but on my 14 (and others 14's and 15's) where the head bearings are replaced with the tapered rollers, it seems to take a second (re-) torquing to finally get it proper. It appears to be difficult to know when races are fully seated , largely due to the aluminum construction of the frame from what I'm told. While install and torque can be done to spec, the bearings won't fully seat until ridden. Some slack re-appearing some sooner some later. But when finally proper, front feels fantastic.
I'm definitely going with some tapered roller head bearings if changing out the Bridgestone OEM tire doesn't work. I'll probably wait until I get some decent wear on the front tire before replacing it though.

 
Ordered a set of the FOBO. For only 99 bucks I figured its worth a shot. If they last more than a year I will consider putting in the T stems.

 
Finally got around to installing the Tire Watch sensors. It was an all day affair since it was my first time removing the wheels from the bike. Plus removing the tires is never quick and easy. The sensors paired up no problem with the receiver. I took it for a quick ride and everything seems to be working. Kinda cool watching the pressure go up while I was riding. I don't know how accurate the sensors are yet. I just got them on a few hours ago.

I'll report back with more info as I test the system out. For now I have the receiver double sided taped to the steering nut. I'll probably drill a hole through the nut for a more permanent mounting solution.

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.. For now I have the receiver double sided taped to the steering nut. I'll probably drill a hole through the nut for a more permanent mounting solution.
Have you considered using 3m dual lock? It's like velcro on steroids.

I use it to hold my cell phone secure on a short ramball arm. It takes a firm effort to pull the phone off.

The laminar lip windscreen accessory uses dual lock 'dots' to secure it to the top of the windscreen, and it stays on nicely at fjr nominal speeds, as do the cee bailey headlight protectors.

 
.. For now I have the receiver double sided taped to the steering nut. I'll probably drill a hole through the nut for a more permanent mounting solution.
Have you considered using 3m dual lock? It's like velcro on steroids.

I use it to hold my cell phone secure on a short ramball arm. It takes a firm effort to pull the phone off.

The laminar lip windscreen accessory uses dual lock 'dots' to secure it to the top of the windscreen, and it stays on nicely at fjr nominal speeds, as do the cee bailey headlight protectors.
Honestly I'm not married to the idea of drilling a hole in the steering nut. I got the idea from seeing the Ram mount balls drilled into the nut.

Where did you get the 3m dual lock? I did a quick on-line search at Lowes and Home Depot and didn't come up with anything.

I've stared at my FJR cockpit and I can't seem to find a suitable spot for the receiver other than the steering nut.

 
Make a metal bracket and Mount it on top of the clutch or brake reservoir maybe. It's a pretty small unit

 
Im I don't... Maybe someone here can help.. I have the MV Motorrrad riser and Am using the ball for my gps, now I need to figure out a place for my phone.. Not sure what to do for that yet.. Might craft something up

 
Im I don't... Maybe someone here can help.. I have the MV Motorrrad riser and Am using the ball for my gps, now I need to figure out a place for my phone.. Not sure what to do for that yet.. Might craft something up
I'm not so talented in the fabrication department.

 
I bought a couple of dual-lock 2-packs of 3" X 1" strips at Staples office supply.

Earlier I fabricated a switch mount for the auxiliary light controls:

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I used a piece of scrap light weight rectangular section metal tube, cut and shaped to suit using an angle grinder/cutting wheel, drill and dremel. It's secured with the small allen screws that hold the handlebar bolt caps.

(I stuck some velcro on the top of it in order to temporarily mount a gps antenna, but found the internal gps in my cell phone is very accurate and sensitive, so I no longer use the antenna.)

The cell phone is mounted using a ram ball installed on the extra threaded bolt hole located at the clutch lever. I seem to recall hearing the Gen IIIs don't have that extra spot.

For that light and small TPMS unit, I think dual-lock, or even good velcro, fixed to the flat surface of the steering nut would be the simple solution

 
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