New FJR rider as of today

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propbuildervash

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Hello,

Just picked up my first Yamaha, it's a 2010 FJR 1300, Liquid Silver I believe is the color. 9991 miles on the odo, added my first 300 miles riding it home.

I joined to forum as the bike was priced right but needs a little love to get it back to 100%

Previous owner dropped the bike on the clutch (left?) side so I have a couple repairs to do.

Broken left luggage, scuffed up mirror mount and cracked left front fairing. I came here to tap into the knowledge base here to get it all fixed up.

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Thank you! I was smitten by the color. Very close to my first bike a Kawasaki Ninja 500R back on 2006.

The damage is pretty superficial and hard to spot. The broken luggage will probably be the hardest to fix as the rear tab is broken off the box so I expect it will need replaced I don't see how one can replace the back of the case unless maybe you drill out some rivets? Not sure as I cannot find a video of anyone tearing one down.

The ride home was not ideal, as the back brake is 80% nonfunctional. I believe there is an air bubble in the line. I will be doing a bleed job tomorrow after I get off work. I took the ride much slower than usual since I only had good front brakes, took my time and enjoyed the ride.
 
When you do the rear brake, use the pedal (and rear reservoir) to bleed the lower front right piston pair first - part of the linked brake system. Then do the rear brake caliper. While you're at it, remove, clean and lube (waterproof grease) the rear brake pedal. Flush the front brakes and clutch circuits, clean and lube brake and clutch levers. Pay attention to the brass bushing in the clutch lever - if not maintained regularly, it will wear prematurely. Clean and lube shift linkage.
 
The damage is pretty superficial and hard to spot. The broken luggage will probably be the hardest to fix as the rear tab is broken off the box so I expect it will need replaced I don't see how one can replace the back of the case unless maybe you drill out some rivets? Not sure as I cannot find a video of anyone tearing one down.

What did we all do before videos? Try here for some insight (get it?) and also some old-time Forum flavor.

BTW, the rear brake is a thing with the FJRs. Ross gave a good summary but it can still be a fight getting a regular firm pedal. Bleed and clean is regular maintenance although I only breakdown the rear pedal/linkage every other year or three depending on conditions. Good luck with the new ride.
 
I watched the video on the brake bleed process for the linked rear, and clutch by "the told mechanic" on YT. Seems pretty stright forward and should take an hour or less. I have no found a video on the clutch bushing, is this a pivot bushing that the clutch handle rotates on or some other busing in the clutch area, what is the preferred lube?
 
I watched the video on the brake bleed process for the linked rear, and clutch by "the told mechanic" on YT. Seems pretty stright forward and should take an hour or less. I have no found a video on the clutch bushing, is this a pivot bushing that the clutch handle rotates on or some other busing in the clutch area, what is the preferred lube?
There is a cylindrical brass bushing with a hole in the side that pushes the plunger when you pull the lever. Not the pivot. Maybe 1 cm diameter x 1 cm tall? You can see it without removing the lever... I would use a synthetic waterproof grease - after cleaning.
 
OK, getting ready to get started here. Can someone recommend a waterproof grease? We talking high temp bearing grease, dilectric grease, brake caliper grease? Any of the above as long as it's grease??
 
Any of the above. High temperature isn't necessary. Brake caliper grease is generally silicone and I wouldn't choose that. Marine wheel bearing synthetic would be my preference.
 
Well, I gave the FJR a tall drink of fresh dot 4 fluids and extracted this nasty truck stop coffee from both brake systems and the clutch. All three systems seem much happier.

I will be doing the clutch plunger when I get home with the grease. There is some bad scoring on the bushing so I will order one to have on hand for my next clutch service.

PSA: don't pull the plunger pin out of the clutch Master Cylinder... Getting the rubber boot back on suuuuucks!



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Yikes, that's some nasty looking fluid. Hope you have a rear brake now. Also, make sure you exercise the ABS system to move fluid. Either a jumper, or find a dirt road to check both ends. Start with the rear and obviously, be careful until you confirm ABS operation. Flush both systems again after cycling the ABS.

Good luck!

~G
 
How does one use a jumper to do that? Id prefer not to find any dirt roads, lol
Very little drama with invoking ABS. I usually try to find a parking lot or deserted road with sand on the asphalt. Even if you choose to ise a jumper to activate the ABS as per the provided link, it is a really good idea to familiarize yourself with the system so you know what to expect when it kicks in. Note - ABS doesn't work at very low speeds, but I can't remember the threshold.
 
How does one use a jumper to do that? Id prefer not to find any dirt roads, lol
Here is a good how to video and I think he tells how to make a jumper. I made one using small alligator clips and a strand of insulated copper wire. This process worked like a charm but he's doing it on a 2014, which I also have. I'm not sure the same applies to a 2010. I'll be the first to suggest you buy an official Factory Service Manual.

 

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