fjrmarc01
Member
Order in 9.00A.M. est. Thanks for setting this buy up Trent.
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I do not know why the dealer would need to charge anything as they will have to remove the old tripletree to change the switch. It takes the same amount of work to put the old one back on as it would to install the new Heli bars back on. I have already install the new Heli, instructions are pretty good, even a caveman can do it! I did not remove my gas tank to change out the bars that will save you some time.Ordered mine today.
Jennifer says they're in stock and shipping today !!!!
Local dealer quoted 1 hr shop rate [or less] if done w/the ignition recal.....
The wire guard goes away when a Heli-Bar goes on. That's normal and proper. Zip ties work.Got the Heli installed today, yeah! Dealer did not leave the wire guard on, took it off. Is this a problem? Should I just use a zip tie?
Just installed mine yesterday that I got from a forum member. I had looked at the installation instructions on the Helibar website in anticipation of getting the triple clamp. I always like to be prepared in advance for projects like this! Anyway, the web instructions do not include the photos that they refer to, but there are photos with the delivered product. You DO need to remove or lift the front of the tank, and the t-bar, and the heat shield to access the two ignition switch plugs behind the steering stem. You also need to drill out the tamper proof bolts that hold the ignition switch. These are hefty bolts, the equivilant of 5/16". A drill press is the easiest way to do it, but I imagine that with care, it could be done by hand. ( But definitly NOT on the bike! ).Does anyone have any before & after shots or step by step shots for you do it yourself guy's ? petty interested in purchasing the helibars even though the group buy is over, also any pros & con's about install and or before and after
I did mine without remove or lifting the tank, just put some towels over the gas tank. The instruction on the website do provide the pictures also.Just installed mine yesterday that I got from a forum member. I had looked at the installation instructions on the Helibar website in anticipation of getting the triple clamp. I always like to be prepared in advance for projects like this! Anyway, the web instructions do not include the photos that they refer to, but there are photos with the delivered product. You DO need to remove or lift the front of the tank, and the t-bar, and the heat shield to access the two ignition switch plugs behind the steering stem. You also need to drill out the tamper proof bolts that hold the ignition switch. These are hefty bolts, the equivilant of 5/16". A drill press is the easiest way to do it, but I imagine that with care, it could be done by hand. ( But definitly NOT on the bike! ).Does anyone have any before & after shots or step by step shots for you do it yourself guy's ? petty interested in purchasing the helibars even though the group buy is over, also any pros & con's about install and or before and after
Most of the hard work is getting to the point where you are ready to install the triple clamp! After that, it is a cake walk. Also, the throttle cable needs to be re-routed so that you have enough slack in the cables at full left lock. I saw a couple of descriptions and pictures of this on the forum, but until I was actually in there doing it, I couldn't understand where to re-route them.
It also is really helpful to have some special tools that you will also need if you are going to do some of your own maintainance: the big socket (26mm?) for the triple clamp top nut, some good metric allen sockets, torque wrench in the 10 ft. lb. to 100 ft.lb. range, etc. Besides, it is more satisfying to do the work yourself that to risk having a dealer who charges around $80 an hour, and who is rushed, to end up dinging up something on your baby!
Thanks for reply, I like to prepare for such jobs as well, my heli bar should be here in the next couple day's so I'm getting geared up, I have done some work to other bike's I've had and have installed a PC III on my present 08 FJR so I've had the tank off and have mingled around under the hood so to speak, I've just never messed with the disconnection of the throttle and from what is shown on the web doesn't do a super job in explanation or photo's, maybe the direction's & photo's that come with will be better or maybe I'm worrying to much and it's pretty simple, That's why I love this forum everyone can pass along help full hints that are maybe missed in some direction,Just installed mine yesterday that I got from a forum member. I had looked at the installation instructions on the Helibar website in anticipation of getting the triple clamp. I always like to be prepared in advance for projects like this! Anyway, the web instructions do not include the photos that they refer to, but there are photos with the delivered product. You DO need to remove or lift the front of the tank, and the t-bar, and the heat shield to access the two ignition switch plugs behind the steering stem. You also need to drill out the tamper proof bolts that hold the ignition switch. These are hefty bolts, the equivilant of 5/16". A drill press is the easiest way to do it, but I imagine that with care, it could be done by hand. ( But definitly NOT on the bike! ).Does anyone have any before & after shots or step by step shots for you do it yourself guy's ? petty interested in purchasing the helibars even though the group buy is over, also any pros & con's about install and or before and after
Most of the hard work is getting to the point where you are ready to install the triple clamp! After that, it is a cake walk. Also, the throttle cable needs to be re-routed so that you have enough slack in the cables at full left lock. I saw a couple of descriptions and pictures of this on the forum, but until I was actually in there doing it, I couldn't understand where to re-route them.
It also is really helpful to have some special tools that you will also need if you are going to do some of your own maintainance: the big socket (26mm?) for the triple clamp top nut, some good metric allen sockets, torque wrench in the 10 ft. lb. to 100 ft.lb. range, etc. Besides, it is more satisfying to do the work yourself that to risk having a dealer who charges around $80 an hour, and who is rushed, to end up dinging up something on your baby!
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