New member - oil change question

[FJRBluesman]

I like to fill the gas tank by putting the fuel nozzle in one tail pipe and thumb over the other one. Takes a little longer, but I find it helps also clean away nasty exhaust valve deposits in the process. Besides, that gas cap is just a bit too hard too reach..what were Yamaha engineers thinking anyway? :blink:

I don't yet have the heart to move this thread.....just because it's actually a new one I would have NEVER imagined. Goon squad....mount up!

:rofl:
Ig - You da MAN! I never thought of cleaning my valves and oil deposits on the pistons that way. My only concern is, will I need to change the air filter... Err or is it now my fuel filter... Just askin'. :blink:

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

Hi, I'm a new member, so please excuse if this is a well-worn/trodden question.Is there any reason I can't do the 1000 mile oil/shaft oil change using a vacuum pump (Mityvac).

I'm asking this because I'm not sure if there's anything about the FJR that would prevent me from getting all the oil using this method.

I like to fill the gas tank by putting the fuel nozzle in one tail pipe and thumb over the other one. Takes a little longer, but I find it helps also clean away nasty exhaust valve deposits in the process. Besides, that gas cap is just a bit too hard too reach..what were Yamaha engineers thinking anyway?

Yet another way:

Back a few years ago when BMW's engineers decided German Engineering didn't need rear-drive drains (they were lubed for life...). A guy I know lived in the country and hung his new "R" BMW from the bucket of his tractor's front-end-loader -- in this way he defeated the Germans and drained his rear-end lube through the fill hole (or vent...? -- can't remember which -- but, there was no drain).

There may be, yet, other ways to accomplish this task...?

 

[user 213]

Back a few years ago when BMW's engineers decided German Engineering didn't need rear-drive drains (they were lubed for life...).

And some of you still argue that BMW engineers aren't morons. They did the no drain plug FD for two years, then added the drain plug back, but refused to admit they made a mistake. It's just a new 'feature'. 'Tards.

 

[RadioHowie]

You guys are SO harsh!

Give the new guy a break.

Besides, EVERYONE knows the best way to change oil is to pull the spark plugs, turn the motor upside and drain out through the plug holes.

Here's my friend Jim helping me with my 51,000 mile oil change:

You can see the plugs are out, awaiting the drip-drip-drip.

 

[BHawk]

Oh dear God, troll? You're not one of those that sees a troll everywhere, are you? Or thinks that all YouTube videos are fake? Everything's a conspiracy? How amusing that a question about a legitimate process that's used everywhere should surface that perspective.

Lets all use our brains for a split second. Why in the world would you think that pulling a drain plug is not the best way to go???
Lets see... The drain plug is usually at the lowest point. The sediment is at the lowest point and sticks to the bottom including the drain plug.

A vacuum sucks (really just less pressure from a true engineering stand point), and what makes you think using a tube blindly, you'll get it to the bottom and get all the sludge off sticking at the lowest point?

Troll or Friday fodder on a Sunday? You decide :dribble:

 

[BHawk]

Thank God! A reasonable reply!

Is the forum typically this unhelpful? Is there an alternate FJR forum for grownups?

I don't yet have the heart to move this thread.....just because it's actually a new one I would have NEVER imagined. Goon squad....mount up!

Nope...simply another approach to changing the oil.

If it works...good for him.

If it doesn't...say, he only pulls 3 1/2 quarts from the oil sump, there's always the traditional method.

It's rather difficult to throw stones when we haven't tried it.

I do believe Bounce touched more of a grain of truth saying that it may be more trouble to clean up the mighty-vac than the time to drain the oil via the plug.

We'll know once he tried his method and reports.

 

[ctfjr]

I like to fill the gas tank by putting the fuel nozzle in one tail pipe and thumb over the other one. Takes a little longer, but I find it helps also clean away nasty exhaust valve deposits in the process. Besides, that gas cap is just a bit too hard too reach..what were Yamaha engineers thinking anyway?
:blink:

I don't yet have the heart to move this thread.....just because it's actually a new one I would have NEVER imagined. Goon squad....mount up!

Now that's funny!

 

[wfooshee]

Is there an alternate FJR forum for grownups?

Nope. This is it!!!!

Your question was answered, and then the fun started. Typical of this forum. Just because you didn't like the answer doesn't make it unreasonable.

But you had numerous other reasonable replies before that one, all stating that using a vac for the oil change is goofy. You yourself stated that it's used on inboard marine engines because of the inaccessibility of the pan drain. That's not an issue with the FJR.

You're not going to get all the oil out with a vac, any more than you are with the drain hole. Some oil remains trapped in the tranny case. Big deal.

Why put yourself through the chore of having to clean the machine when all you needed to do was put a dang tray under the drain?

If it takes you 15 minutes to do an FJR oil change, then somebody else needs to be doing it for you. You're not gonna get it vacuumed and the machine cleaned up in that short a time.

Just because this reply says not to vacuum doesn't make it unreasonable.

 

[Ignacio]

Is the forum typically this unhelpful?

Not sure what you mean, but you might try reading #6 here.

Is there an alternate FJR forum for grownups?

Sure! Clicky here.

Otherwise,......seriously.....I'd suggest lightening up a bit. Sometimes folks don't make it past a few dozen posts when reading and following the forum rules does help tremendously.

Good luck making that transition....REALLY!



Ig

 

[Grumpy]

So Howie, when are you coming upo to help me with "the-oil-change"?

jim

PS: Someone needs to take your camera away from you.....you're very dangerous!

 

[johnny80s]

Thank God! A reasonable reply!
Is the forum typically this unhelpful? Is there an alternate FJR forum for grownups?

I don't yet have the heart to move this thread.....just because it's actually a new one I would have NEVER imagined. Goon squad....mount up!

Nope...simply another approach to changing the oil.

If it works...good for him.

If it doesn't...say, he only pulls 3 1/2 quarts from the oil sump, there's always the traditional method.

It's rather difficult to throw stones when we haven't tried it.

I do believe Bounce touched more of a grain of truth saying that it may be more trouble to clean up the mighty-vac than the time to drain the oil via the plug.

We'll know once he tried his method and reports.

This might work for you.

 

[madmike2]

It is strange for me to be on the more "open minded/reasonable" side of an issue...

....BUT.....

...as twisted as my thought process is, I don't see where the OP's thought is outside of any bounds.

Yes, it is different to those of us who wouldn't normally use this procedure. That doesn't make it wrong, except it violates OUR sense of normal.

Y'all need to lighten up rather than jumping to collisions.

[SIZE=8pt]You know, the place where your narrow view of normal procedures collides with the endless possible solutions for questions you never thought to ask.[/SIZE]

O.M.G. I sound like my dad!

 

[RadioHowie]

This might work for you.

johnny80s, I like THIS ONE much more! I think you'll like it too.

So Howie, when are you coming upo to help me with "the-oil-change"?jim

PS: Someone needs to take your camera away from you.....you're very dangerous!

We gonna re-grit your main bearings, too? :lol:

 

[exskibum]

It is strange for me to be on the more "open minded/reasonable" side of an issue...
....BUT.....

...as twisted as my thought process is, I don't see where the OP's thought is outside of any bounds.

Yes, it is different to those of us who wouldn't normally use this procedure. That doesn't make it wrong, except it violates OUR sense of normal.

Y'all need to lighten up rather than jumping to collisions.

[SIZE=8pt]You know, the place where your narrow view of normal procedures collides with the endless possible solutions for questions you never thought to ask.[/SIZE]

O.M.G. I sound like my dad!

+1, including the strangeness of you being "open minded/reasonable".

Different strokes and all -- what's to say that his might be a quicker/better/cleaner solution if, for example, you have more than one motorized vehicle and a MityVac dedicated for oil changes?

 

[johnny80s]

This might work for you.

johnny80s, I like THIS ONE much more! I think you'll like it too.

So Howie, when are you coming upo to help me with "the-oil-change"?jim

PS: Someone needs to take your camera away from you.....you're very dangerous!

We gonna re-grit your main bearings, too? :lol:

I was just trying to give him an outlet for all the mean people he has to deal with in this thread.

 

[S76]

Here is something you may want to consider.

The engine oil drain plug is P/N 90340-14132-00 and sells for $3.63.

The rear drive oil drain plug is P/N 90340-14004-00 and sells for $6.26.

Although both plugs are the same size and interchangeable, the rear drive oil plug has a magnetic insert to collect any normal gear wear fuzz. Therefore, you really should pull the rear drive oil drain plug to clean off any debris from the magnet so it can continue to perform it's intended function, which is to trap metal particles and keep them off the gears and bearings.

 

[user 213]

Some of you are confusing the small brake fluid Mityvac tool with the much larger engine oil evacuation tool that the OP is discussing for use of sucking the gear oil from the diff, or the engine oil. I have both, though my engine oil evac tool is not a Mityvac brand. It was purchased when I had a VW Golf which has a massive plastic drip pan under the engine making access to the drain plug a real PITA. Even more so when an aftermarket drip pan/skid plate is mounted to protect the fragile oil pan.

Being accustomed to drain plugs, using the vacuum tool is a little different. I could never really be sure the hose was at the bottom of the sump, (I'm accustomed to a screen being in there sometimes), just by feel. The volume being evacuated was w/in the norm, but you just didn't know you had all the oil out. (this was on the VW) I've used it on HD trannys w/success, but it never occurred to me to use it on the FJR. The bike is just too easy to do the traditional way.

FWIW, you don't need to clean up the evac tool, aside from removing the hose and letting it drain out. You just dump the oil from it's reservoir like you would a drain pan, then close it back up. Most have a pour spout w/a plug for this, so it's not even as bad as taking the little brake style mityvac apart.

 

[COLDCUT]

Ok, I finally got my MityVac in the mail. My bike is disassembled and I've got my new oil and filter. My only problem is that I can't seem to figure out how to get this damn pump to work. B)

 

[exskibum]

Ok, I finally got my MityVac in the mail. My bike is disassembled and I've got my new oil and filter. My only problem is that I can't seem to figure out how to get this damn pump to work. B)

OK, WTF is THAT for? It seems far too small for any kind of useful tool or task.

 

[Khunajawdge]

.

Uhh? If out of gas, maybe it'd be gud 4 pumping enough gas out from another tank, then empty it into yours to check to see if your fuel pump was working? One of those small containers full of transferred gas wouldn't get you too far however.

The container/hose/or pump might(?) dissolve in Ethanol.

Question? Why do you need a Mighty Vac to change brake fluid? In my brake bleeds, I've never needed one!