No Neutral Light

[keithaba]

My rebuild is going pretty well so far, thanks to several forum members selling me parts!

I have run into a few issues.

1st. I have no neutral light, and I don't know why. The bike will go into neutral, it starts with no problems, and shifts with no problems. All other dash signals are functioning (blinkers, oil light, abs light...) I looked in the service manual and it talked about a neutral switch. Might this be my issue? #12 is the neutral switch.

Is that thing located under the gas tank? I poked around with the cowlings off and couldn't figure it out???

2nd. Does Auxilary Light Coupler = turn signal. I am pretty sure that is the turn signal.

3rd. The glove box will not open even when hooked up. Is this related to the no Neutral light issue. I know the glove box only opens when the bike is in neutral. The glove box must not be receiving a signal, because It won't open, and it is plugged in to the lock assembly while the bike is on in neutral.

Well, if anyone has any ideas please let me know, I'm pretty stuck, and if worst comes to worst, I guess I'll live without a functional glove box, although having it is nice.

 

[slapnpop]

Can't speak for sure, as I've never messed with it, but...

There should be a sensor or wiring leaving the transmission area, and running to the ECU or dash. My guess is that a connector either at the transmission, or at the other end of wherever ir runs has been left disconnected, or broke during the "event". Check this chain for physical problems with a multimeter first. I was going to suggest it might just be the lightbulb until I read the bit about the glovebox. Seems the bike is never getting the signal from the tranny.

As for your other issues, :dntknw:

 

[SkooterG]

Your windscreen control works? As in it goes up and down when switch is activated?

If not, check the only 2 amp fuse that is in the fuse box.

 

[radman]

Neutral switch is mechanical, in the trans rear area near the speed sensor, back of the trans at the swing arm pivot area. It's working, as it's part of the start circuit, which you say functions ok. Could be just the bulb, which may be part of an interlock circuit that allows the box solenoid to operate, not sure on that one.

#9 is the neutral switch

 

[Constant Mesh]

Left front turn signal/running light is a 3-wire connector.

Wires

Chocolate

Blue/Red

Black

 

[slapnpop]

Neutral switch is mechanical, in the trans rear area near the speed sensor, back of the trans at the swing arm pivot area. It's working, as it's part of the start circuit, which you say functions ok.

Couldn't you still start it in gear with the clutch in and sidestand up?

 

[keithaba]

Neutral switch is mechanical, in the trans rear area near the speed sensor, back of the trans at the swing arm pivot area. It's working, as it's part of the start circuit, which you say functions ok.

Couldn't you still start it in gear with the clutch in and sidestand up?

It starts in neutral with kickstand down. The kickstand down is an engine killswitch when not in neutral. So apparently the circuit that tells the ignition system that the bike is in neutral does work, but not the circuit that turns on the N light and unlocks the glove box.....

Looks like I might end up with a "Cosmetic" glove box that doesn't work.

 

[C&C]

No mention that the bulb has been checked. (rhetorical question?)

 

[Scab]

Looks like I might end up with a "Cosmetic" glove box that doesn't work.

Should the originating issue not be resolved, you can still have a functional box, albeit a non-locking box. The thrust plunger that locks the box actually moves a plastic pin into lock position. Remove the plastic pin and Viola, box works.

 

[keithaba]

No mention that the bulb has been checked. (rhetorical question?)

Have to get a voltage meter first, should have access to one on Sat......

SCAB: Excellent idea, if I can't figure this out, that's what I will do. And will post pictures following for anyone who encounters this problem in the future. I never leave anything valuable in there anyway....

 

[radman]

Have to get a voltage meter first, should have access to one on Sat......
SCAB: Excellent idea, if I can't figure this out, that's what I will do. And will post pictures following for anyone who encounters this problem in the future. I never leave anything valuable in there anyway....

Was the second thing I did to Frank, after yanking the reflectors.

 

[Geezer]

No mention that the bulb has been checked. (rhetorical question?)

Have to get a voltage meter first, should have access to one on Sat......

SCAB: Excellent idea, if I can't figure this out, that's what I will do. And will post pictures following for anyone who encounters this problem in the future. I never leave anything valuable in there anyway....

Multi-meters are very inexpensive these days. You should own one if you're going to do any kind of electrical work.

 

[radman]

Multi-meters are very inexpensive these days. You should own one if you're going to do any kind of electrical work.

Even cheaper

 

[stellarsteve]

The neutral switch and the sidestand switch both terminate to the starter cutoff relay. From there, a wire goes to the neutral light. So I think you are good from the switches to the cutoff relay since it will still start and run. I think your problem is either the wire from the cutoff relay to the neutral light or the bulb itself. If you have voltage to the neutral light but still no light, and the bulb is good or new, check the connection to ground from the light. There should be no resistance.

 

[keithaba]

*Update*

The Neutral bulb is dead, the lock assembly does work. For some reason, it is not opperating correctly. I took the glove box assembly apart just to check the lock mechanism. When the bike is in neutral, it does retract, it must be the new glove box assembly that isn't working right, the pin just doesn't seem to drop down.

I just took the lock mechanism off, no biggie. I never leave stuff in there anyway.

So just for those who were following, it does not appear that the Neutral light, and the glove box lock are on the same circuit.

 

[Bull]

Hi Keith

On my ride home tonight I noticed my green neutral dash lamp was missing.

My first thought was the lamp had died - but a little diggin when I got home showed the windscreen up/down switch was 'asleep' and my heater grips (powered via relay activated by windscreen auto retract power) as also snafu. The blue high/low bean indicator was also MIA.

I'm thinking it might be the 2 amp fuse that Hillary Clinton (see above) mentioned earlier. I think that I've got such a spread of symptoms all at once that they all likely share the same upstream fault. Fuse?

Did your experimenting provide any info that might be of help to me? I'll likely have a good dig around at the weekend but it would be nice to have the peace of mind between now and then.

Any ideas you might have would be appreciated,

cheers! - Bull

 

[ionbeam]

All the items you mention except the blue hi/lo headlight indicator have the Signaling System fuse in common. All the items you mention pass through Coupler #5 (front cowling wire harness). Since you have tapped this circuit I would suspect the fuse first, but I mention connector #5 because of your hi/lo indicator being out too. The Signaling System fuse also powers your rear brake light relay.

[Wow, this thread was last updated 3/22/07!]

 

[SkooterG]

It's your 2 amp fuse. I blew mine several times when I controlled my accessorries via relay and the auto-retract wire. For some reason, I am one of the only ones that has happened to. I changed control of the relay to the un-used horn wire (from MagnaBlasters install) and haven't had a problem with blowing any fuses in over 100,000 miles now.

So, replace that 2 amp fuse to get everything working again, and I highly recommend you change control of your relay to another source.

 

[ionbeam]

Bull, I think Skoot missed the fact that you have a '06. I don't know how to break this to you, but you don't have a 2.0A fuse :huh: Skoot had tapped into his 2.0A Gen I windshield motor circuit but your Gen II's windshield motor is wired through the 15.0A Signaling System fuse. Ya need to check your Signaling fuse.