No Neutral Light

[SkooterG]

Bull, I think Skoot missed the fact that you have a '06. I don't know how to break this to you, but you don't have a 2.0A fuse :huh: Skoot had tapped into his 2.0A Gen I windshield motor circuit but your Gen II's windshield motor is wired through the 15.0A Signaling System fuse. Ya need to check your Signaling fuse.

Blah.....blah......blah............

Little mister smarty-pants.

Yep, IB is correct in that I hadn't even considered any changes from Gen I to Gen II here. Interesting how the root cause and symptoms are exactly the same, however. I would go with IB's advice and check that 15A signaling fuse.

Good luck.

 

[Bull]

Thanks Skoot and Ion-B

I'll take a peek at this at the weekend. Funny thing was - this morning, the bike somehow had 'healed itself' - all the way to work this morning, the symptoms I mentioend earlier were all miraculously fixed! [Give me a "halleluhjah!" :yahoo: )- Then when I started her up to come home tonight, all the previous symptoms had returned. WTF :blink:

I"ll start with a fuse check ..... and I"ll post my findings. I think I will move my source away from the windshield feed. Time for a Blue Sea install under the seat I think.

IonBeam - when you use the term 'signaling fuse' - do you mean signaling as in turn signals? (because my turn indicators are just fine)

thanks again for the input guys,

 

[ionbeam]

'signaling fuse' is Yamaha's term, not mine, I used it verbatim so that it should match your fuse box labeling.

Your turn signals are powered by the "Hazard Lighting Fuse" :blink: Hey, this is the way that Yamaha has named things.

Since it seems to self-heal you may want to pull apart the Coupler #5 connector (wire harness-front cowling) and inspect the pins. Look for a pushed in pin, bending or corrosion. Again, the term is Coupler #5 is a Yamaha phrase. You should find the location of the coupler using the "General Chassis, Removing the Front Cowling" section of the FSM.

Also, if you used a taco style 3M Scotch Lock wire tap, check it to be sure you haven't completely broken the tapped wire.

 

[Bull]

'signaling fuse' is Yamaha's term, not mine, I used it verbatim so that it should match your fuse box labeling.
Your turn signals are powered by the "Hazard Lighting Fuse" :blink: Hey, this is the way that Yamaha has named things.

Since it seems to self-heal you may want to pull apart the Coupler #5 connector (wire harness-front cowling) and inspect the pins. Look for a pushed in pin, bending or corrosion. Again, the term is Coupler #5 is a Yamaha phrase. You should find the location of the coupler using the "General Chassis, Removing the Front Cowling" section of the FSM.

Also, if you used a taco style 3M Scotch Lock wire tap, check it to be sure you haven't completely broken the tapped wire.

Dear Ionbeam and all....

I'm hoping you might be able to help me solve the riddle of the 'missing' up/down windscreen function - as well as the gone-for-ever? neutral dash lamp.

You kindly suggested recently that I might want to check the 'taco type' connector I used to splice into the windscreen circuit (to power the heat controller for my heated grips)

So here's the scoop as of today.

You were correct - the taco splice had chopped the wire - the red and black wire - running away from the big 6 cluster to the 2 wire grey plug. That's the 2 wire grey plug that you disconnect to disable the auto -retract funtion.

When I try to short across that broken wire though, I still don't get any up/down using the LHS control button. I was hoping to simply splice/solder/heat shrink wrap the damaged cable - but I don't think that will bring back my up/down - or my neutral lamp (since it doesn't really have any effect when I short the gap by hand).

I also checked all the fuses - they all looked good - but just to be sure, I swapped out the 3A as well as the 15A signalling fuse. Still no joy.

Do you have any ideas that I might try next (before I call it a day and take it in to the dealers).

any suggestions or advice will be truly appreciated,

cheers - David

PS - Ionbeam - your PM box is full

 

[daviddowns2000]

Today I put in a new battery and also used the ABS test lead jumper to try to see if I had any recorded ABS malfunction messages as well as to try cycling the pump in my '05. When I was all finished, I discovered that the neutral light and windshield were not working but no other problems were readily apparent. Thanks to this thread and the search function, I was able to quickly determine that the 2A fuse was indeed blown. I had been really careful about the leads when changing the battery so I really don't think I shorted or arced anything, but I guess it's possible.

Has anyone else had this happen when changing the battery or using the jumper?

Also, the dash display never went to the ABS malfunction code screen. I tried it a few times following the service manual instructions carefully but it never went to the malfunction code screen. Was that is because there were no malfunction codes, or did I do something else wrong?