Oil drain crush washers

[RiderX]

Ref: p/n 214-11198-01

I know many of you don't replace these, but I don't second guess Mother Yamaha on this issue and put a new one every time on all three locations.

OK, I give up. What's the third location????????

Top and bottom of final drive.

 

[RaYzerman19]

https://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/4102/58611

Convert to the aluminum washer Honda uses, and torque to 22-24 ft. lbs. Washer will last you a long time, but keep a spare just in case. Cyclemax used to sell them in packs of 10. They now sell singles for 35 cents.

 

[marcusorelius]

Convert to the aluminum washer Honda uses, and torque to 22-24 ft. lbs. Washer will last you a long time, but keep a spare just in case. Cyclemax used to sell them in packs of 10. They now sell singles for 35 cents.

Got 1 at the honda car dealer today. $ .95 cents Amazing the amount of paperwork involved, even had to sign their copy! :lmaosmiley:

 

[escapefjrtist]

https://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/4102/58611

Convert to the aluminum washer Honda uses, and torque to 22-24 ft. lbs. Washer will last you a long time, but keep a spare just in case. Cyclemax used to sell them in packs of 10. They now sell singles for 35 cents.

Thanks for the link!

Still working off my stash of FJRGoodies washers when they were $0.49 each...

Great to know that there's a Honda part that'll work for less $$$ too.

--G

 

[LAF]

Advance Auto sells them in copper for very little in blister packs. Been where I have been getting mine.

 

[Pete Bansen]

I bought a box of 50 for $20 from Amazon.

clicky

The washers are manufactured/packaged by an automotive/industrial manufacturer called Au-ve-co - you can frequently buy their products from an auto parts wholesaler if you're in a larger town or you could try ordering from their website: www.auveco.com

If I had known it was an Au-ve-co part before ordering from Amazon's affiliate, I would have probably gone direct.

For a 14mm ID, 20mm OD crush washer, their catalog shows aluminum washers 1mm thick (Part No. 19621 - package of 50) and copper washers 2mm thick (Part No. 17262 - package of 10).

Pete

 

[Eric L]

Ref: p/n 214-11198-01

I know many of you don't replace these, but I don't second guess Mother Yamaha on this issue and put a new one every time on all three locations.

OK, I give up. What's the third location????????

Top and bottom of final drive.

ah crap, the filler has a crush washer? I never noticed that. ... ... 32K miles, 6 changes.... sheesh.

 

[dcarver]

If you use copper and anneal them each time they are good for life. It takes about 30 seconds and you save the price of three washers each time.

Ray, how do you anneal it? What's the process? Heat till red then quench in water or??

 

[TomInPA]

Ref: p/n 214-11198-01

I know many of you don't replace these, but I don't second guess Mother Yamaha on this issue and put a new one every time on all three locations.

OK, I give up. What's the third location????????

Top and bottom of final drive.

ah crap, the filler has a crush washer? I never noticed that. ... ... 32K miles, 6 changes.... sheesh.

No crush washer on the filter Eric. The final drive filler, drain and the oil drain is it. Feel free to reuse some of those, I know I do.

 

[John d]

If you use copper and anneal them each time they are good for life. It takes about 30 seconds and you save the price of three washers each time.

Ray, how do you anneal it? What's the process? Heat till red then quench in water or??

I hear both ways work, but letting them cool naturally will leave the copper softer, than quenching in water.

 

[FJR Flyer]

I bought a box of 50 for $20 from Amazon.

clicky

The washers are manufactured/packaged by an automotive/industrial manufacturer called Au-ve-co - you can frequently buy their products from an auto parts wholesaler if you're in a larger town or you could try ordering from their website: www.auveco.com

If I had known it was an Au-ve-co part before ordering from Amazon's affiliate, I would have probably gone direct.

For a 14mm ID, 20mm OD crush washer, their catalog shows aluminum washers 1mm thick (Part No. 19621 - package of 50) and copper washers 2mm thick (Part No. 17262 - package of 10).

Pete

Looks like you have to be an Auveco Distributor to order direct online.

 

[huron52]

Sorry kids but my bike hasn't had a new crush washer at the drain plug for ...oh.... maybe going on 8 years. no stripped threads and no leaks. I got bigger things to spend my money on :lol:

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

This isn't NASA ya know.

Funny you say that; I'm retired after 22+ yrs from KSC.

Kennedy Space Center

LMAO!!!...I knew it!!!

Once an engineer always an engineer eh? Our personalities dictate how we each look at life and look at the world around us. Some are left brainers & some are right brainers & some are no brainers. This is why the CIA does detailed "profiles" on people based on their "type". Its also why eharmony.com tries to match people up by their personality. An analytical engineering type doesn't typically go well with a free spirited artistic type.

You definitely profiled yourself with this thread...but then again by my response so have I. I'll still have a beer with you at EOM though. I'm just not sure how long I can talk about crush gaskets with you however

 

[user 6393]

I go to the local outboard mechanic. I give him a buck, he gives me a handful.

always knew you wuz lazy, Thomas

 

[fljab]

This isn't NASA ya know.

Funny you say that; I'm retired after 22+ yrs from KSC.

Kennedy Space Center

LMAO!!!...I knew it!!!

Once an engineer always an engineer eh? Our personalities dictate how we each look at life and look at the world around us. Some are left brainers & some are right brainers & some are no brainers. This is why the CIA does detailed "profiles" on people based on their "type". Its also why eharmony.com tries to match people up by their personality. An analytical engineering type doesn't typically go well with a free spirited artistic type.

You definitely profiled yourself with this thread...but then again by my response so have I. I'll still have a beer with you at EOM though. I'm just not sure how long I can talk about crush gaskets with you however

LOL I'm no engineer - at least not a degreed one (altho I probably do fall in the "backyard engineering" area) - I was a pneumatics/propellents mechanic - I worked mainly high pressure systems including nitrogen (GN2), helium (GHe), hydrogen (GH2), Oxygen (GO2), and breathing air (O2N2). We also had compressed air on the pads and all over KSC.

Best pic I could find after a quick search - resolution not so good: The tall pressure vessels (at the bottom) was "my" stuff, plus the first little building to the right of that housed the pad compressors (2 on each pad) - Quincy 740 cfm screw compressors. In addition we had multiple pressure reducing panels up on the structure; the main ones were @ the 175' level, but many others plus the tubing & compressed air piping all over.

We also hooked up the lines to the MLP (Mobile Launch Platform - that big grey thing the shuttle is taking off from), and had panels & systems inside of that.

And believe me, I'm not anal - but I do change crush washers every time! I often order fasteners in bulk from places like McMaster-Carr including metric and I was looking at the crush washers the same way. That's not anal, it's practical in my thinking. I do like fiddlin' with stuff tho and tinker quite a bit in my garage. My FJR is farkled fairly well, and I'm gonna do a complete do-over this winter to simplify, organize, and shrink all the "stuff"! How's that for a technical explanation!

My intent was not to have this thread "degenerate" into if the crush washers should be changed, who does it or not, and why - just if there was a better/alternate source for the two-piece washers vs Yamaha. When I found the one @ AdvanceAuto, that told me someone makes these and they are not special but if I want to stick with the two piece washers then it looks like my choice is to either stay with my local dealer (probably a good idea regardless), order from fjrgoodies, or convert to the more common aluminum or copper one piece crush washers. I choose one of the first two...

@EOM there will be plenty of things to talk about vs crush washers, see you there! I'm looking forward to it.

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

My intent was not to have this thread "degenerate" into if the crush washers should be changed, who does it or not, and why - just if there was a better/alternate source for the two-piece washers vs Yamaha.

@EOM there will be plenty of things to talk about vs crush washers, see you there! I'm looking forward to it.

I hear ya!...just some friendly ball busting. :lol:

For what it's worth I do change my crush washers with every oil change. I figure it's cheap insurance & I think there a buck or buck 50 from my dealer. Are they totally necessary? Prob. not. But I change them none-the-less.

See you next month.

 

[Spud]

Count me as another "why". 31K, probably 8 or 9 oil changes, a few final drive oil changes, still using the same stock crush washers. No leaking, seeping or weeping.

I'm just worried that if I change them out I'll never find washers that work that good again!

 

[GeorgiaRoller]

For what it's worth I do change my crush washers with every oil change. I figure it's cheap insurance & I think there a buck or buck 50 from my dealer. Are they totally necessary? Prob. not. But I change them none-the-less.

Count me as another "why". 31K, probably 8 or 9 oil changes, a few final drive oil changes, still using the same stock crush washers. No leaking, seeping or weeping.

This is why I say its prob. not necessary to worry about them. Just a good second line of defense or cheap insurance policy for "potential leaks". I do change them because its so cheap and Yamaha put them on there in their design. But having said that I took the pair system off the bike and Yamaha put that in their design as well. :blink: .... :lol:

 

[C&C]

And don't forget, especially for those that change every time (I don't), there is a right and a wrong way to install the crush washer; flat side goes towards the engine (because the engine is machined flat) and the crush-able side goes towards the bolt (because it is forged and not perfectly flat; the crush-ability of the washer fills any unevenness).

 

[wheatonFJR]

I love crush washer threads.

I'm of the type that change every time even though it "may not be neccessary", so I was interested in the OP's question.

It sounds like it's either the local Yammy dealer or shopping on the internet for a Yammy dealer special deal.