Opinions on what maintenance to do while I'm under the fairing

[FJRMaverick]

Given that I decided to dig in under the fairing to replace the windshield motor "slide bushings" (those white nylon things that start chattering after the auto-retract forces the windshield down way too many times), what else should I go ahead and do while I've got all that fairing off? (On topic, I've already disconnected the auto-retract harness.)

This is the 30,000 mile (2nd gen) bike I just picked up last summer, and I'm trying to just dive in and get to know it while fixing what I know needs fixed. For those of you with more experience of the long-term issues that crop up on FJRs, are there things I should just go ahead and do while I'm in there that aren't necessarily "service manual" time/mileage oriented? The bike is in really good condition, but I don't know any of the maintenance history.

Thanks!

FJM

 

[RossKean]

The chattering is more likely the windshield arms rubbing against the gasket in the slots. The white plastic channels would benefit from cleaning but I have never heard of them wearing out - even after 200,000 miles. My gasket (soft PVC, not rubber) came partly detached from the fairing. I cleaned it all up with alcohol and re-stuck it with 3M double sided trim tape. I also slightly tightened the wire in the windshield mechanism.

If you are planning to change headlight bulbs anytime soon, do it while you have the nose off the bike. Check all connectors while you are there but there really isn't anything else to do.

 

[HelzBelz]

Mine have been chattering literally from day one. They must have got a lot of workout on the showroom floor?

I disconnected auto retract on day 4..

 

[RossKean]

I find that a thin smear of silicone dielectric grease along the gasket where the windshield arms rub helps for awhile. Use a minimal amount as it attracts dust and dirt. Apply with a Q-tip.

 

[FJRMaverick]

Thanks guys,

In my case, the chattering is actually the outer two white nylon slide bushings, because they still chattered after the fairing was totally removed (not touching any rubber gaskets). It seems like the pushing and pulling of the motor against the arms puts a twist on the arms, rotating the bushings slightly in the track and prematurely wearing the slots in the bushings deeper. That sloppiness caused the chatter.

After I removed the windshield arms from their two outer tracks, the chattering is completely gone. The motor and inner two nylon slides glide up and down silently when activated.

I picked up the two new nylon slide bushings today at the dealership for just over $14, so after I lube them up good and install them, if it doesn't cure the problem, I'm not out much.

Good idea about doing the headlight bulbs, Ross. I'll go ahead and replace those.

 

[RossKean]

A little smear of dielectric grease on the headlight rubber boots makes future removal easier. I am not sure if the nylon channels should be greased. I would be concerned that the grease would absorb dirt and turn into a thick paste. Make very sure the arms are assembled correctly. I have never seen one that was worn or binding. I just cleaned mine out and left it dry when I was in there the last time. I don't know if the service manual recommends anything - I didn't look at the manual but it seemed dry when I started.

Edit: I just looked it up in the FSM and saw they use lithium soap grease in the side rails. I would not use an excessive amount...

 

[hppants]

IIRC, the nose is the last piece of Tupperware to be removed. You mentioned the bike has 30k miles. Have the valve clearances been checked? Spark plugs fresh? Coolant flush current? Air filter? Throttle body sync? These are all jobs that can be (mostly) done with the plastic on, but (mostly) go much smoother with the plastic off.

Also, and this is way out of the box, if you (or someone you know) is pretty good with a welding rod, consider welding some small triangle shaped gussets on your mirror tabs. The front stay (tubular frame piece that structurally holds the nose, gages, mirrors, etc on) is a known weak point for the bike. Even if you just tip the bike over, the mirror tab on that side will likely break. I put gussets on mine and it was fixed permanently. Mirrors had a lot less vibration at speed too.

 

[RossKean]

Also, and this is way out of the box, if you (or someone you know) is pretty good with a welding rod, consider welding some small triangle shaped gussets on your mirror tabs. The front stay (tubular frame piece that structurally holds the nose, gages, mirrors, etc on) is a known weak point for the bike. Even if you just tip the bike over, the mirror tab on that side will likely break. I put gussets on mine and it was fixed permanently. Mirrors had a lot less vibration at speed too.

The GenII mirror sub-frame is very different from the GenIII that hppants has. (I assume that is what he is talking about??) The GenII stay is steel and is more likely to bend than break - GenIII are aluminum and much more brittle. Breakage on the GenII is less common after a drop but could still happen.

 

[FJRMaverick]

Thanks for the replies.

Good thoughts, hppants. Spark plugs and air filter look new, coolant looks fresh, and I'll be doing the throttle body sync right before I get it back on the road this spring. I haven't checked the valve clearances, and I have no idea if the PO checked them/had them checked or not. I may check them before riding season, but if not, I'll likely pay my trusted local dealer to do it.

I have an aversion (on principle) to removing camshafts for such an important maintenance item as a valve adjustment. I can swap out shims on my '81 Seca (arguably the FJR's grandfather) without removing camshafts, using a special bucket-depressing tool that screws into one of the adjacent cam cover mounting holes. Once the bucket is depressed, you just lift the shim out from under the camshaft with a pick and needle-nose pliers. My FJR is 30 years newer, and they couldn't incorporate the same design, let alone make this (even easier) a threaded-stud adjustment? Wow.

I'll take a look at the mirror sub-frame, and see how I feel about welding on some reinforcing gussets. If it's as you say, Ross, I'll probably let it be.

Regarding the nylon slide bushings for the windshield retract system: I picked them up from the dealer on Friday and got them installed over the weekend. Lightly greased with white lithium. It took care of the issue! No more chattering, so it was well worth my $14. The time investment was pretty substantial, though, since this was my first time taking off the fairing. I hope next time it goes much quicker.

 

[hppants]

You don't have to remove the camshafts to change shims. You can zip tie the cam sprockets and crank sprocket to the cam chain, double (TRIPLE, QUADRUPLE) check the timing, loosen the cam chain, remove the cam bearing tops, and then gently move the cam shaft(s) over to gain access to the bucket/shim.

None the less, I agree with you in that building this bike with hydraulic self-adjusting lifters would have been much better.

 

[russperry]

Good idea about doing the headlight bulbs, Ross. I'll go ahead and replace those.

I think if I was under there at any time in the future I'd be looking for a drop-in LED replacement instead of new halogen bulbs.

 

[FJRMaverick]

Thanks Russ,

I agree; that's a great idea. I'm looking at some recommended LED brands now and am anxious to pick up a pair. Probably the Cyclops H4 7000-lumen bulbs.

I didn't see too much in this forum one way or the other on "upgrading" to stainless brake lines. Wouldn't now be a good time to replace brake lines, also? I think the recommendation is every 5 years for standard lines.

I've been running the same stainless brake line on the front of my '81 Seca for 16 years (obviously changing/flushing brake fluid periodically).

It seems stainless lines for newer than a 2006 FJR are not commonly available (but that might just be my limited searching). Or, are the stock/OEM brake lines already a reinforced design?

 

[Wm.P]

I just finished valve clearance check and adjust without removing camshafts as well. Its fairly easy. I did find my cam chain adjuster was on its way out. I read some crazy threads about how difficult replacing it was. It was a snap. Had my forks rebuilt as well. 64000 on the clock and ready to do another 60000. You guys have some great info on this website!

 

[Kelvininin]

Sorry. A little late to the party. Last year I picked up a new to me 2010 with just 8500 miles on it. The windshield chattered on retract like yours. I tried spray in lubricant, didn't work. I took the fearing off cleaned it up relubed, tested without a shield, it worked. Put everything back together, still chattered. Took everything apart again, this time I disassembled the whole windshield and track assembly. Thoroughly cleaned everything. Lubed with a quality lithium grease. reassembled. It worked that time.

Also there is a jumper than enables the auto retract. You can simply remove the jumper, disabling the auto retract, or do what I did and install a switch so you can enable and disable it. I installed a micro switch in the glove box. I usually leave it on for commuting and disable it for trips, so it doesn't lower the shield for a quick gas stop.

 

[Niehart]

I didn't see too much in this forum one way or the other on "upgrading" to stainless brake lines. Wouldn't now be a good time to replace brake lines, also? I think the recommendation is every 5 years for standard lines.
I've been running the same stainless brake line on the front of my '81 Seca for 16 years (obviously changing/flushing brake fluid periodically).

It seems stainless lines for newer than a 2006 FJR are not commonly available (but that might just be my limited searching). Or, are the stock/OEM brake lines already a reinforced design?

They are available but are a real pain to install because of the ABS. So many more lines to the brakes. I installed them on my first "06". Someone ask why I didn't move them to my next FJR and I said it was just to much of a hassle.

 

[FJRMaverick]

The quote function's not working for me, probably because of the computer I'm on.

Wm.P -- I may go ahead and do a valve check since the machine's so new to me, just to have a baseline. It's probably easier than what I'm fearing.

Hey Kelvininin -- So far I don't have the windshield back on yet to verify I'm truly chatter-free, but I'm glad I got the new outer slide bushings. At least I know that if it still chatters once the windshield's on, it's the "nature of the beast," and I can live with it (especially since I did lube everything up and disable the auto-retract). Interesting idea about adding a switch to turn that off and on.

Yeah, Niehart, I did see that several people's posts said how much of a pain replacing brake lines are on this. I'll just flush them and keep fresh fluid in them for another several years and think about it then.