PAIRectomy. And yes, wtih pics.

[ELP_JC]

Hi gang. This is going to be of interest for the crowd with pipes.

First, may I start by asking the experts here what the heck is the metal tube my finger is pointing for?

Never seen one before. It goes deep into the head in 2 places, and has a sensor at the end. Seems like such a heavy tube would be to handle exhaust gases, no? Weird.

Hey, did you notice how clean my engine looks? By the way, those black rectangles below the tube are the individual cylinder valves that the block-off plates will cover (they need to stay in place).

Will link the other 8 pictures to make the thread shorter, but if you guys want me to post images rather than links, let me know soon so I can edit it.

This is before the PAIRectomy:

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-1.jpg

This is after (2 pics):

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-2.jpg

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-3.jpg

This is all the PAIR crap:

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-4.jpg

The bolts are loctited folks, so be prepared to wrestle them. You'll need a 5mm socket and wrench. Once you remove the 6 bolts, it's a piece of cake. Had to remove the hoses in several places to avoid disturbing the throttle cables. I also removed the solenoid bracket and put the screw back. And also removed a metal wire retainer that is unnecessary since it's right ON TOP of vacuum plug #3, and makes it a b*tch to remove the plug, especially with the tank just propped.

I also replaced the stock vacuum plugs with BMW conical ones, that are solid rubber, and very easy to remove (they don't get stuck like soft ones). I'm doing all this to make it easy to balance my TBs with just the tank propped.

Here is a pic of both:

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-5.jpg

Here's a pic of the wire bracket I removed for better access to vacuum port #3:

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-6.jpg

Here's a pic with the bracket removed, and BMW vacuum plugs installed:

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-7.jpg

And here's a picture of the air box plugged where the hose used to be. It's to the left of the orange fuel connector.

https://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb3/ELP_JC/FJR-8.jpg

A few comments.

Idle speed knob DOES NOT move the throttle stop folks; it allows more air to get to the cylinders; that's why we have so many vacuum hoses. FOUR vacuum hoses go to the idle control valve, and FOUR more to the vacuum sensor, also called 'air pressure sensor' (vacuum is negative pressure), so intake pressure is basically an average of the 4 cylinders.

Vacuum plugs don't need clamps, and neither the gas tank vent hose; neither is pressurized. Oh, I just removed the long hose from the tank, leaving the 'Y' in place, along with its clamps. If you notice, none of the other vacuum hoses are secured. I've never had a problem in my many motorcycles. This makes it very easy to remove the gas tank next time, especially by yourself (like me), as well as the vacuum plugs. These are the last BMW plugs I have (bought a bunch many years ago -old model-, but don't have the p/n anymore), so on my next bike I'll just reuse the stock ones, but without the clamps.

I'm going to make templates for a machine shop to fabricate the block off plates for me. I'll make them exactly the same thickness so the stock bolts can be reused. I'm probably going to make 5 sets, and put the others on sale on the classifieds so I can recover some of the cost (5 sets are a lot cheaper per unit than 1). Will post a pic when I'm 100% done.

Hope this helps brothers and sisters. It's a real easy job once the tank is removed. You can do this along with the throttle spring relax; it's a piece of cake without all that crap in the way. Hope everybody enjoyed their weekend.

JC

 

[BrunDog]

Nice post, and I appreciate the effort, but why remove the air injection? What does this get you?

-BD

 

[v65]

Nice post, and I appreciate the effort, but why remove the air injection? What does this get you?
-BD

Well for one a lot cleaner engine compartment. Putting the audiovox cc on the gen II's would be simpler without that air control valve.

Oh yeah, the tube is for coolant.

 

[Feejer/Weejer man]

Nice post, and I appreciate the effort, but why remove the air injection? What does this get you?

-BD

[/quote

When adding after market pipes and or headers and adding a power commander removing the air induction or capping it off, eliminates the false readings it feeds to the bikes computer. Or something to that effect anyway. I had mine done when I did the Holeshot full system and dyno'd the bike to map the power commander.

 

[ELP_JC]

Oh yeah, the tube is for coolant.

Really? Couldn't Yamaha do it internally like everybody else? Geez. It looks like crap. Plus I can imagine the freaking mess when it's time to adjust the valves. At least it needs to be done every 26K miles, correct? Will remember to replace the coolant at the same time, to minimize the mess. Oh, and talking about ugly, what's the other thing that looks like an oil filter in the lower front of the engine? I know it's not the water pump, and neither the thermostat. Looks like crap too.

Thanks buddy.

Oh, and without the PAIR there's no more popping on decel at all. This is especially annoying with pipes. And it's also needed or recommended for the PCIII install. I mainly removed it to be able to easily perform a TB with just the tank propped, which is going to be even easier with the new vacuum caps. By the way, I pushed the vacuum hoses on #3 and 4 a bit back (the ones next to the TB synch ports), since they were inserted too far, and made difficult to remove the plugs. It should be real easy now.

Oh, and even if you guys don't remove the PAIR, I'd definitely remove the metal wire retainer (pictured above somewhere) near plug #3; it's not needed, and it's in the way big time. Just a phillips screw and it's out.

And another comment. The solenoid has a wire after the connector, so if the computer throws a code (doubt it), I'd be able to cut the wires and install a resistor for a factory finish. The connector is right by the frame on the left side, so not even a need to lift the tank to connect it; just remove the silver tank shroud piece. Later.

JC

 

[v65]

Oh yeah, the tube is for coolant.

Oh, and talking about ugly, what's the other thing that looks like an oil filter in the lower front of the engine? I know it's not the water pump, and neither the thermostat. Looks like crap too.

Oil cooler.

Looking forward to seeing the machined covers, I might want a set!

 

[huk finn]

Nice job & pics j.c.,,, got a question tho.

Not to detract from the fine work, yami shuts off the injectors on deceleration until rpm's hit around 3 grand. Suppose you shut of throttle at 7-9 grand , I have no clue if butterfly/slide valves close also (some one fill us in). Maybe the air injection is supposed to take over at this time to stop an over "vaccum" condition.

I'll p.m. the rest of ideas/probs that might be hogwash so I dont get dogpiled (as you should know ),,, I'm basically a car guy, so I figure they'll be at my throat too.

 

[odot]

We only pile noobs from el paso who have really clean skooterg engines.

 

[mike25]

As much as i would love to remove all that crap, i think I'll wait until

the warranty is over (2011, if i still have this thing). I would hate to

be in BFE and need service (warranty), and be denied because of its

removal.

 

[v65]

Nice job & pics j.c.,,, got a question tho.Not to detract from the fine work, yami shuts off the injectors on deceleration until rpm's hit around 3 grand. Suppose you shut of throttle at 7-9 grand , I have no clue if butterfly/slide valves close also (some one fill us in). Maybe the air injection is supposed to take over at this time to stop an over "vaccum" condition.

I'll p.m. the rest of ideas/probs that might be hogwash so I dont get dogpiled (as you should know ),,, I'm basically a car guy, so I figure they'll be at my throat too.

According to the FSM, the air cut-off valve only allows air into the exhaust valve area if both of the following are satisfied:

1) The engine is idling.

2) The operating temperature is high enough (if the engine is cold then injecting air into the system will promote ignition of the spent gases)

 

[ELP_JC]

As much as i would love to remove all that crap, i think I'll wait until the warranty is over (2011, if i still have this thing). I would hate to be in BFE and need service (warranty), and be denied because of its removal.

I'd be more concerned adding a PCIII than removing this buddy. This does not affect engine operation at all, but the PCIII does, and can screw things up big time if set up incorrectly. And still a ton of people install it on their new bikes. And I'd too if I have to.

I'm not remotely worried about it, to be honest. And you shouldn't either. Never heard of warranty denied due to PAIR/stock pipes/CAT/canister/etc. being removed, and that's what probably 90% of sport bike owners do on the first week of ownership. And neither due to a PCIII being installed, but you could potentially screw up your engine with it, and have a hard time getting warranty coverage.

Oh, and if you don't throw the stuff away (I won't), you can install it back in half an hour. Later.

JC

 

[BrunDog]

The air injection is to help burn off unspent HC's. Not sure how this affects performance.

Also, ELP, nowhere in any PCIII documentation on this bike is removing the air injection recommended or mandated. I'd like to see it. And popping on decel? I dunno what you have going over there, but I currently have a PCIII and have never heard a pop, with or with out it.

And personally, I don't think the warranty risk is worth a little more "under tank" space. My CCS fits nicely under the seat and is not exposed to planet mercury temperatures. A PCIII can be easily removed in a matter of minutes and is almost expected by dealers that bikes have them. The right dealer will easily look the other way on warranty stuff. I guarantee they wont for this farkle.

So far, I gotta call "Shenanigans" on this thread. Need a concrete reason to believe this makes any sense. Of course, IMO, YMMV, and all those other disclaimers.

-BD

 

[huron52]

I am not sure why you are removing all that stuff. Is it not needed? You have lost me at the get go.

And the end result is? ???????

 

[jestal]

I removed the pulse AIR system from my 03 ages ago simply to eliminate some of the clutter and to eliminate a little of the heat caused by the post-combustion chamber oxidation of HC. I had the cam cover off at the time and simply tapped the four AIR ports in the cover and installed a set screw to block. I left the stock covers in place with rubber caps over the spigots.

I suspect the pulse AIR system on the FJR is in place to supply extra oxygen for the cat rather than supplimenting much HC oxidation in the pipe/port. The issue with emissions would be excess HC and CO at idle/decel so the cat would be more efficient in oxidizing the HC and CO if some extra "air" were introduced at that time, hence the PAIR system.

Without the cat the PAIR system becomes extra baggage with no real purpose.

It is certainly easier to unplug the PCIII and remove it if warranty were a concern compared to reinstalling all the PAIR hardware if that is a consideration.

 

[FJRay]

This thread may have some potential. Lets get the popcorn going. :clapping: I would have to think that a dealer would be more concerned about hardware removed that is supposed to be there than added stuff that is proven to help out a lot of driveability issues. IMO

 

[ELP_JC]

nowhere in any PCIII documentation on this bike is removing the air injection recommended or mandated.

Definitely not mandated, and forgot to add 'IMO' on that statement(sorry). Most people get a PCIII to compensate for at least pipes, and due to afterburn, most remove the PAIR system if present. It's hardly heard with stock pipes indeed. I've always read it's recommended due to the reasons quoted on post #4 here.

Bottom line: there's NO reason to remove it; I JUST WANT TO REMOVE IT. And no, I have no pipes, PCIII, or anything else. PAIR made sense on carbureted bikes where air rushing in on decel kept sucking fuel along with it (engine is an air pump). My BMW K1200RS didn't have a PAIR, so it's obviously not mandated now, especially with cats and O2 sensor (my BMW had both too). My guess is bike manufactures keep using the same tooling they had when it was necessary; that's why I don't feel guilty removing it. Adding more fuel thru a PCIII probably pollutes more. I'd feel more guilty removing the cats, and that's why I didn't do it on the BMW, and hope not having to do it on this bike (unless I drag them).

And as I said before, it takes me the same time to put back as removing a PCIII. Hope this ends the 'controversy'. Have a great day gentlemen.

JC

 

[wpbfjr]

can you believe it? the dude does hard work, posts pictures, and all i can think is:

[SIZE=18pt]a clean engine is a gay engine...[/SIZE]

 

[ionbeam]

can you believe it? the dude does hard work, posts pictures, and all i can think is:
[SIZE=18pt]a clean engine is a gay engine...[/SIZE]

Or, he piles on miles like BrunDog -- it only took him 2 years to reach his first 600 mile service :lol:

 

[v65]

I am not sure why you are removing all that stuff. Is it not needed? You have lost me at the get go.
And the end result is? ???????

EDIT: Fixed the horrible grammar, left the terrible grammar, and added some stuff.

The PAIR on the FJR is actually pretty old technology to aid in meeting emissions requirements. The idea is to inject fresh air into the exhaust gases just as they are leaving the combustion chamber; the introduction of oxygen at this point causes excess hydrocarbons in the mixture to oxidize. The link given has an example for catalytic converters, but the idea is simple enough (at least as far as my high school chemistry can take me): as an example one of the byproducts of the combustion process is carbon monoxide, which is not environmentally friendly at all. By introducing oxygen into the mix while it it still hot (the FSM is quoting 1112 - 1292 degrees fahrenheit) a chemical reaction takes place where the carbon monoxide is transformed into carbon dioxide - the stuff plants like to breathe. From the diagram in the FSM, the air is injected right at the exhaust valve, so you would have to ask yourself how this effects carbonization of the valves. Also, the high temperatures needed for the reaction to occur explain why the air mixture valve ELP_JC is removing does not open until the bike warms up.

Notice that all of this takes post-combustion, so engine performance is not effected one way or the other - what you do have is a lot more plumbing. What the real world emissions gains are I don't know, especially since it only seems to work at idle (although that's probably the worst rpm for emissions). I have already done the Barbarian jumper mod, so why not this too? Then I can mess with the cc installation (Note: Brundog, on the Gen II's we are blessed with the air cut-off valve that is really in the way).Guess I might as well go kill a dolphin as long as I am at it. :lol:

BTW, after spending the day messing with web servers my brain is starting to hurt, someone want to explain why removing the PAIR helps with the popping on decel?