pazzo knock offs

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My levers arrived a few days ago. They are not the correct levers and simply don't fit. How long does it take to float back to Hong Kong???

:(

 
My levers arrived a few days ago. They are not the correct levers and simply don't fit. How long does it take to float back to Hong Kong???

:(

That sucks, which vendor did you use?
+1
That does suck.......sorry for starting this thread, and suggesting people try them out. Didn't mean for folks to get hosed. I used Motomarts through eBay. They actually sent me a photo of the package with my mailing address on it, and it was at my house in less than a week....can't vouch for the other suppliers. Sorry HA.

Matt

 
Got my levers installed. Fit and work fine. Next time I'll go with black w/either red or blue adjusters. ;)

FYI: FOR THOSE WITH THE V-STROM HANDGUARDS!

The bottom nut of the adjuster on the brake (right) side was hitting the handguard and not allowing the lever to fully release and causing the front brakes to not completely release and slightly drag. I was wondering why my fuel mileage went down and why all of sudden the FJR was more difficult to move in the garage!

Some minor surgery to the handguard with a dremel and all is good again. :)

 
Got my levers installed. Fit and work fine. Next time I'll go with black w/either red or blue adjusters. ;)
But those metrosexual-orange levers are so you
gay.gif
.

 
Good Thread!

I have a pair of real Pazzo levers on the workbench for installation on the first day off work when the temp finally gets above 50 degrees in the garage... After looking at the pictures of the Chinese copies, I went out to the garage and opened the Pazzo box for a look-see comparison.

IMHO, the finish tooling on the copies is at least as good as the machining on the real McCoy! If they fit as advertised, I'd say they are a good excellent find.

Recalling the price of the Pazzo levers compared to these... I got stabbed!

Hope they work out well for those who have bought them, and thanks to the OP who brought them to the attention of the forum. It is things like this that make the FJRforum such a great resource.

 
Good Thread!

I have a pair of real Pazzo levers on the workbench for installation on the first day off work when the temp finally gets above 50 degrees in the garage... After looking at the pictures of the Chinese copies, I went out to the garage and opened the Pazzo box for a look-see comparison.

IMHO, the finish tooling on the copies is at least as good as the machining on the real McCoy! If they fit as advertised, I'd say they are a good excellent find.

Recalling the price of the Pazzo levers compared to these... I got stabbed!
Maybe not. I had been noticing that the neutral to first 'clunk' seemed to be getting worse, so I bled the clutch. Went out for a ride and after about 60 miles, I noticed that the clutch was feeling distinctly "notchy" as I let it out - once pulled in, the lever would initially feel a little reluctant and then the clutch would engage smoothly. I didn't think too much of it, but when I shifted from second to third and accelerated up a freeway on ramp, I noticed that even though the clutch lever was fully released, the clutch was slipping if I accelerated hard.

Long story short, when I got home I sucked the dirty old fluid out of the master cylinder, replaced it and bled the slave cylinder once again (both by pumping the lever and using a Mity-Vac). The lever did not want to return to the 'engaged' position (farthest from the grip). When I removed the super-duper Pazzo knock-off lever, I found that the little brass bushing that engages the pin from the master cylinder was seized in the bore that it fits in. I tapped it out with a drift and found that the little bore that it fits in was galled from contact with the bushing. I lubricated the bushing when I installed the levers, but evidently that lube has gone away enough for the bushing to create friction in the bore. It looks like those need to be lubricated pretty often. At least on my set, the tolerance between the bore and the bushing was a good bit tighter than the same tolerance in the stock lever. I cleaned up the bushing with some super fine sandpaper, lubed it with some anti-seize and reinstalled the stock levers - no more clutch problem.

So - if you have those cool levers, take them out and make sure that the bushing is well-lubed. It's something that may need more frequent attention than you have been accustomed to in the past (it was for me, that's for sure - I would typically do this no more than annually) and if neglected - even for a little while - it may cause problems. I had no symptoms of binding at the start of an 80 mile ride, but by the end, the friction in the pin was making the clutch slip under certain circumstances. Not good. I may put the knock-offs back on (after I clean the bore up and enlarge it a little to allow more room for grease), but I will certainly keep an eye on the lubrication and probably pull the clutch lever off and lube it quarterly.

 
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